PetrolDave

As others have said insurance costs are based on ALL vehicles not just yours, so if the repair costs of other vehicles go up that will increase YOUR premium - that's how insurance has always worked - we all pay into one pot.

I would disagree with your mech. If the battery is exactly the same specs (type, Ah, etc.), then you should at least just change the serial number so that the BMS can know a new battery is fitted straight away - yes it will learn over a longish period but surely you want to be able to use the full capability of a new battery you've just paid $$$ for straight away? If the battery has different specs then you IMHO must tell the BMS the new specs ASAP.

Nope, they are permanent live.

If the wiring is all OK then this suggests the microswitch in the door lock isn't adjusted or working correctly.

Because many people don't seem to realise that there are actually a large number (20+) of ECUs in the car, all with their own firmware.

Press the button on the actual tailgate - it's above the number plate.

Out of date software doesn't stop the GPS antenna working. Best way to check the GPS antenna is with the Mark 1 eyeball, if the connections look good then I'd get a cheap hockey puck style GPS antenna and test with that - the OEM sharkfin can fail. BTW the Skoda portal doesn't offer updated software, only updated maps - and with a 2013 car likely the newest maps will be several years old as they stop issuing new mpas 5 years after the end of production.

Sounds like the GPS antenna is faulty or the connection to it is broken. Is the Amundsen factory fitted?

What about the details gav_is_con asked about? Knowing the engine and gearbox type is particularly important. Plus some interior pictures would help...

Could be a wiring problem, most likely where the wiring passes into the tailgate?

Agreed, but a viable solution for the larger number of people that live in towns and don't have a driveway (or a garage/space with power) is still needed as well. As always the solution gets much harder after the "low hanging fruit" has been picked.

Interesting that the DfT spokesperson seems to think that charging points at motorway service areas is the key. In the last year I have driven 18,000 miles and only been on one short stretch of motorway, the M5 between the A30 junction and the southern end. So a motorway charging point would have been little or no use to me, and I suspect many other drivers - for example there are no motorways in Dorset, and as @Rooted points out there are no motorways north of Perth.

IIRC only on UK supplied cars are the 12V sockets permanently on. I seem to remember that non-UK cars do have a movable fuse to select always on or ignition only.

The language of this forum is international English, if you wish to post in your language then you must also post an English translation.

There is no resistor controlling the wiper speed it's only for the fan speed. The wiper motor speed change is done using two sets of brushes on the motor. So either you have a problem with the stalk, the wiring or the motor - time to get out the wiring diagram and the multimeter.

Do a complete Auto-Scan, you should see errors under 09 Cent. Elect.

Thank you.

The language of this forum is English, please at least post an English translation.

As well as the voltage sensitive relay to charge the auxiliary battery it sounds like you need a time delay relay triggered by ignition to enable the auxiliary heater for a timed period after the ignition turns on.

Sounds like the drivers side servo motor that moves the temperature flap isn't properly connected. I suspect it's moving as there would be error codes about it not moving, but not properly connected to the flap - possibly as a result of the accident or repairs?

+1 Paying to have green generated electricity put onto the grid is absolutely NOT the same as using green generated electricity yourself.

I have a smart meter and am on the Agile Octopus tariff where the charge per kWh varies every half hour through the day and night to encourage people on this tariff to try to use electricity when demand is lower. Agile Octopus

That's only true for the indicator bulb, the sidelight and headlamp bulbs do NOT need the headlight to be butchered. I changed my front sidelight bulb last month, so I know that no butchering is required.

Yes, but they try to keep a low profile - if you have a problem that you think needs attention then use the "Report" option which you'll find under the ... in the top right of the post you want to report.

Saloon or estate?