PetrolDave

Please post only in English.

It also works in generic OBD mode so can be used on other makes too - I've used it on a colleagues Lexus to clear a DPF fault so he could drive home 50 miles at more than 30mph!

Is this on a facelift (Mk4.5)?

See CAN colours

You need to look in "Adaptations" not "Coding".

Sounds like a perfectly normal cold start to me.

The car has multiple CAN buses, but only one of them is the infotainment CAN - others are Powertrain CAN, Comfort CAN, etc.

The CAN bus is a twisted pair not a single wire so it should be easy to spot.

A 2020 Octavia could be a Mk3 or Mk4, which do you have? From your description of the LEDs on the side of the headlights I suspect (but could be wrong!) that you have a Mk4.

You need to post in English for us to understand...

The infotainment uses data on the Infotainment CAN bus to tell it that the ignition is on, sounds like the connectors on the rear of the main infotainment unit (usually in the glove box) are not properly seated.

Since you mention 1.9TDI not 2.0TDI I guess that's an Octavia 2? A 2013 Octavia could be an Octavia 2 or Octavia 3, might be helpful to clarify.

I would add to that - and costs to customers as well as quality of service provided. The 12 tonne electric vs 20 tonne diesel rubbish disposal vehicles failed on that last point.

There's a permanent 12V pin on the OBD socket, if the fuse to that is blown the diagnostic cable won't work.

I am pretty certain that a Mk3 Octavia will have indirect TPMS. You reset the TPMS using the CAR menu in the infotainment, you do not need OBD11.

As I posted, and which you seem to have ignored, for the layman (at least all the ones I've spoken to who do not have an engineering background, including 2 of my brothers-in-law who are retired head teachers) they assume a system with a battery and an inverter will supply their home during a power cut - so they won't even think about asking the question. You're making the classic mistake of an "expert", failing to understand the thinking of a "Joe/Joanne Public".

My point is that most people will assume that their solar/battery system will provide backup power to their whole house during a power cut - it's a reasonable assumption for a non-technical person to make (battery plus a "magic box" that connects to the mains). So they won't even have asked if their inverter is grid-tied or grid-forming - and the quotes they received when having their system installed are unlikely to have mentioned any restrictions during a power cut, the quotes I've just received certainly made no mention of it and neither did those received by either of my brothers (we're all retired electrical/electronic engineers).

I wonder how many homeowners with solar plus battery are aware of the difference between a grid-tied inverter and a grid-forming inverter? I suspect it's a very small percentage...

I would add and make sure the oil is up to temperature before "giving it some beans", my RS4 had an automatic lower rev limit of 4000rpm until the oil reached 80 Celsius when the full 8250rpm became available.

Another phrase used is "Do an Itailian tune" - whch also means using more revs to exercise all parts of the engine and turbo.

10,400 miles for a 2015???

I don't think that's a coding issue, it looks to me like the LED bulbs are too voltage sensitive - and since the BMS allows the voltage to vary between just over 12V and over 14V while driving no coding is going to solve that.

My understanding is that not all solar battery charger/inverters are capable of running in off-line mode (i.e. during a power cut)?

OP is in India so I don't see how that's relevant in this discussion?

Changing the bulb type requires changes to the correct Leucht channels in the BCM. What do you mean by "loupes"?