PetrolDave

I used to use Eco mode a lot but found that when coasting the lack of engine braking meant I was using the brakes quite often, so I've gone back to D mode to get engine braking back.

Same here but with a 1.8TSI, just leave your left foot on the foot rest and use only your right foot on brake and accelerator. I live in an area where I have to do lots of hill starts and find the few seconds while the car holds the brakes on for me is plenty enough to not need to either select N (with stop/start the engine turns off so there's no concerns about clutch slip) or use the handbrake. I only use the handbrake (along with P on the selector) when parked on a slope. Very occasionally, mainly for smiles, I tap the selector back to D/S which switches the DSG to Sport mode that holds lower gears and increases the rpm point for upshifts. Then just tap the selector back to return the DSG to Drive mode.

How many people would read the sticky? Almost on a weekly basis people are posting in the wrong forum on this site for their car. I've reported many posts for being in the wrong forum so admins can move them to the correct forum so they get advice from owners of the some model. I don't see how a 4.5 forum or sub-forum will help this situation?

I would trace the fuses controlling the other open circuits first - just maybe, the wiper control module is powered by one of the same fuse(s)? Don't condemn the module until you know the fuses and wiring are OK.

If the vehicle has AFS and/or auto high beam those systems also require vehicle speed to know when to enable/disable. As previously said I had ALL those faults when it was a wheel speed sensor, so I am as near to 100% certain as it is possible to be that this is also the problem for @SimonBest84

He needs to check again, the 1.5 is an EA211 engine type where the water pump is on the opposite end of the engine to the timing belt.

All of those systems rely on knowing vehicle speed. I had exactly the same list of faults when the right rear wheel speed sensor failed on my previous 2015 Octavia. So I have to disagree and say that in my opinion and experience the problem is a failed wheel speed sensor.

MIB1 was fitted in production until April 2015, so a February 2015 will be a MIB1.

I've had "normal" cruise control on all my cars since 1999 and liked using it when I could, which with our increasingly crowded roads became less and less frequently, otherwise I had to keep turning it on and off and resetting the set speed. So when I got my first Octavia 3 in 2016 which had ACC I loved the ability to safely use it much more frequently as it really de-stressed long drives as it adapted to the speed of the vehicles in front. I agree with @NamePlate that I now wouldn't get a car without ACC.

@Evolution13 Since KPMONKEY has a TSI there is a chain (all EA888 1.8 & 2.0 TSIs have a timing chain) so I'm puzzled why you say there isn't a chain?

VRS TSI is a chain, VRS TDI is a belt.

It depends on your definition of "too much hassle" from a MIB1 Bolero. Do you have Canton? @pab567 can advise.

@pab567 Is there a fuse on the rear of the MIB glovebox units? There has been a fuse on the previous generations I have dealt with (RNS-E, etc.).

Did he check to see if there is a fuse on the rear of the glovebox unit?

I've got that problem on the left rear seat, on investigating the outer of the bowden cable is no longer clamped in the seat back so I need to work out a way to reclamp it while working in the small space available through the opening in the seat cloth.

I suggest you two take this discussion offline, it doesn't help those less skilled than yourselves to read this debate.

A 2015 Octavia won't have a clutch mechanism on the AC pump, it's a variable displacement pump.

The language of this forum is English, please post only in English

@robertovr6 @matteo2727 The language of this forum is English, please post only in English

Skoda don't publish release notes so there's no official way of knowing what new features and bug fixes are included in any release.

Any receiver that fails due to a jamming signal hasn't been properly designed, but like @TomerB2025 I think it's a manufacturing fault not a design fault.

Often this means the window is so stiff that the motor current reaches the limit and stops, so worth checking that the window is not too tight in the runners.

If the headlamps are that fragile then they haven't been designed to meet the conditions in the real world such as potholes and speed bumps.

At around £100 per dealer diagnostic session, it soon pays for itself. BTW if you have a clone/rip-off copy then don't expect any help either from Ross-Tech or on here - we only support the "real deal".

Has it always done this? On older models there was an isolator in the feed to the rear window heating elements which were also used as one of the radio aerials, this was a known point of failure causing this sort of loss of radio when the rear window heater was on. Does anyone have wiring diagrams for the Octavia 4 and can confirm whether this is also the case?