PetrolDave

Looks like either your battery isn't holding charge, you've got a load not turning off (no coolbox in the boot?) or the alternator isn't charging , which makes the BMS turn off loads such as the 12V sockets. Check the battery voltage with the engine running, if that's OK then the battery is your problem - not surprising if it's 8 years old.

For me the elephant in the room with Digital Voice is what happens when there is a power cut, because it relies on mains power to a router or analogue adapter you cannot make or receive calls. You can request a battery backup, but that only lasts 1 hour - so if you're in a mobile 'not spot' you can't call the energy provider or any emergency service. This isn't a theoretical problem as many people who were affected by the recent winter storm didn't have power for days and some were in mobile 'not spots' and had to drive several miles for their mobile to get coverage. IMHO the obligation on BT to provide emergency call coverage should not have been cast away so easily.

No, petrols have it as well - both my previous 1.4TSI and my current 1.8TSI have them.

OFF TOPIC WARNING The last time I was pulled over into one of these was on the A303 in the Wylye Valley - in 1998 while driving a motorhome. The advice they gave was ridiculous - move a heavy weight (electric scooter motor and gearbox assembly) from low down on the floor at the rear to over the cab in the luton - to reduce the rear axle weight by 30kg. That amount of weight nearly 7 feet up made the handling questionable to say the least... Back to the topic, I think this thread now contains too much personal points scoring and maybe has run it's course and that a halt (temporary or permanent) might be a good idea?

My second car was an Austin 1300 in dark green, I bought it for £365 from a family who were emigrating to Australia the next day so were desperate to sell it. Sold it 3 years later for £350, depreciation of £5 per year isn't bad!!!

You don't need a NAV button to have Smart-Link for Android Auto or Apple CarPlay. You do need a MIB2 or MIB2.5 infotainment system, which a 2016 model will have (MIB1 was discontinued in mid-2016 production). Enabling needs a FEC (Feature Enabling Code) or some companies can enable it using software (MIB Toolkit).

That's just one of several possibilities. I would measure the battery voltage under several conditions before jumping to conclusions: - first thing in the morning before ignition on or starting - immediately after starting - whilst driving if possible - when getting home in the evening I found this useful for monitoring battery voltage.

But it does, the more current the external voltage tries to draw the lower the battery voltage will be due to the battery internal resistance. Simple (very exaggerated) example: battry no-load voltage=12V, battery internal resistance=1 ohm, load resistance=2 ohms. Total resistance=3 ohms therefore current=4A (NOT the 6A which would be expected from 12V and 2ohms load) AND the battery terminal voltage won't be 12V it will be 8V due to the voltage drop of the internal resistance.

Halfords guy was speaking out of ignorance, your car can easily handle a 75Ah battery. I fitted a 75Ah 096 AGM battery to my previous 1.4 Octavia with no problems, and have done even larger battery changes on a previous Citroen C1 (almost double the Ah battery from a petrol spec to a cold climate diesel spec).

Since headlamps are only on the front of a vehicle that cannot be true???

Correct it, so the BMS knows what new battery the muppets at Halfrauds have fitted.

That means the radio isn't seeing the CAN bus message that the ignition is on, so that's where the problem lies.

Given that OP is in Denmark, I reckon that's a good assumption.

The fusebox is hidden behind the glovebox.

The higher profile will increase the diameter of the wheel. Since the speedo actually counts wheel revolutions your speedo will under-read as you'll be travelling further for each wheel revolution. According to this tyre size calculator the speedo reading will be 6.8% lower, the recommended change is no more than 2%.

You have to ask the dealer or go online to e.g. erWin.

As proved by the great work done by member DV52 on the Ross-Tech forum, he produced a chart showing the (often very large) differences between different MQB platform models - and even between cars of the same model with different equipment.

VAG stopped fitting car stickers a few years ago.

Both are MQB platform, but that doesn't mean they're the same! As requested post an Auto-Scan and an adaptation map from 09 and what you changed - without that we are just guessing...

That's normal behaviour, the Battery Management System tries to charge to battery to 80% SOC so when it reaches that the voltage will drop - until you get onto the brakes when it will go into micro-regenerative braking mode and increase the battery voltage. In normal driving I see the battery voltage go to 14.x after starting then drop to around 12.x for most of the time when driving, but increase again to top up the battery and when braking.

What do you see when you scan module #19? Anything showing under the Battery Monitoring Control Module J367 that is a subset of #19?

Does any reason for start-stop not working show up on the infotainment screen? There's an option to see the reason, I think it's under CAR?

The first mobile I designed was an analogue TACS phone, which predates any of the digital GSM/CDMA ones.

Blah blah waffle - typical dealer nonsense!

They're right that 2015 was a transition year, early 2015 builds had a MIB1 which cannot have Smart Link, later builds (like your it appears) have a MIB2 which can have Smart Link enabled. The key fact that Marshalls seems to have missed is that you have a MIB2, which means there is no doubt about being able to enable Smart Link and all they have to fdo is order the VIN specific key for your car.