paulski

Thanks thought so. Seems a shame it's not a tick option like a lot of other functions

I have checked my Admap for the adaptions required to enable cornering fogs and they are all there as in the guide in the Mk3 forum. Is there any option to add a tick function to the infotainment menus for these, or once the coding is done, "Active" all the time? I am aware there is also a threshold value in the admap. Car is MY16. Non VRS.

Just for fun, I VCDS logged my coolant temperature and oil temperatures to show what's going on. Coolant clearly easier to warm than oil, not surprising really Ambient temps around 13C at the time, this was a normal run from home to an A road dual carriageway and at about 4.6miles my oil temp hits a reading on the Maxidot of 50C. I think the bump in the oil temp was probably just getting to around 60-70mph and I had to accelerate to get out into lane.

do they give you a loan car for the day, google tells me that garage is only 295 miles from my house

Got an Indy price of £430 today, so that's good and they said they change all the coolant when they do it. Happy days. Thanks for replies all.

Indy I presume...prices are just too high down south (Sussex)

FYI If your car has front assist then i was told by quickfit it has to be done at a dealer or specialist with ADAS alignment equipment as tracking can affect the radar alignment. I'm sure others might have not bothered but worth checking with whoever you take it too.

Thats interesting about the coolant. I'm aware the car has several systems to warm up efficiency but assumed removal of the pump would loose some if not all the coolant. How @Ecomattgot under £400 for this job is amazing. My old PD 1.9 was about that 10 years ago!

I'm seriously considering getting my cambelt changed slightly early than it needs (car is registered March 2016, and on 64k miles) as I noticed that my coolant tank looks discoloured (mit silkat issue perhaps but heating is ok on all sides at present) and see little point in changing the coolant to flush out old if its contaminated, and then doing cambelt and water pump in March 2021 which requires it draining anyway. The only dealer locally that has cost on their website says its £649 for belt and water pump, which is odd as UK Skoda website quotes the maximum to be £549 for belt and water pump. I am waiting for a local Indy to come back with price next week and wondered : What sort of cost people had from their Indy garages compared to Dealer prices for this work? Thanks

Just done mine with no issues. Open case. Take out old battery, put in new,close case. Went to car and it opened fine. Dont panic too much.

In mine (MY16) every tenth pull it operates but I am aware older cars were more often and drink fluid as you seem to suffer. It's odd that OBD 11 cannot see it. Its not like it's a new mod either. Anyone got vcds near you?

the headlights do have to be on for them to activate a wash.

Needs a scan tool (vcds or such) to check in the battery management module that the serial number has been altered. Often the numbers are just 1111111 and merely changing one digit to another number will tell it has a new battery from which it will determine is charging characteristics. There is no way to know it's been coded without one. Battery capacity can be slightly increased or even type EFB to AGM etc. But coding is always necessary.

Would also recommend you use a good brand of battery, Duracell, Energizer etc as these tend to last longer. change the battery and then go to the car an use it and it wont lose any sync settings. If you look underneath the drivers door handle, there is slot in it which you can put the end of your key in an twist it (careful of the paintwork) and off will pop a plastic cover. There will be a lock under that to open the car with the key if the battery fails to unlock remotely. The user manual has a picture of this in the "locking and unlocking sections" if you have it?

Hi likely to be that you are variable servicing or car is later than 2104, you need a proper scan tool to reset it, OBD11 or VCDS. Check the VCDS diagnostic forum for a local member to see if they will reset it for you. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/23-diagnostics-amp-vcds/

1. Standard: purely a filter 2. 1+ With Carbon: filters particulates and the activated carbon "absorbs pollutants" but given the surface area of a cabin filter debatable as to how much they can absorb and a cost bit more. 3. 1+2 plus Inpregnated with fungicide to stop the fungal spores entering or being able to grow on heater matrix that cause odours. Air Con Bombs kill off bugs and sanitizes the heater matrix that goes hot and cold /moist and is the perfect growing ground for bugs and fungi. But as said do both both and smell should go away.

If you stick with your diesel as @VRS_White_Hatch suggested moving to petrol as such low milage. At least get the dealer to change the service regime from flexible to fixed when you get your oil changed. But definitely stick with an annual oil change from that point on irrespective of miles travelled.

Fantastic effort. Join the BBC Repair Shop next month . Any photos would be great. I use mine so much I'm convinced it'll pack up eventually and >£100 is always nice to save.

Ha good read that. i now regularly look after my sister in laws car with regard to basic checks. A few years ago she had a "friend" top up her tyres. She drove from Surrey to Manchester and back. She turned up at ours when back and I thought her tyres looked a bit low Pressures should have been 32psi. Her friend had put them to 22 psi, I could only guess a total misinterpretation of 2.2 bar on the sticker perhaps and let the air out......

There is a very long guide on here somewhere for installing a tow bar. Screen shot of c pillar being removed. Any use?

My bumper guard is from https://rgmautomotive.co.uk/ It has a nice lip rolled down over the bumper that alot don't have. It's been on 18 months and looks fine.

Highly recommend on the estate, a rear sill guard to compliment the variable boot floor and then you can load things in and out without worry of damage, and forensics can get foot prints off it too...lol. And the Superskoda boot lights, they are fantastic to illuminate that huge boot.

Subjective subject. Who's getting their vcds to log it then for a few days real world driving, would love to see some graphs of that. 2.0 TDI. From cold on dual carriageway runs when coolant has warmed to 90C (~5miles) oil is just reading 50-60C. Another few miles beyond that I'm happy to stamp the gas if required

Totally agree with above. So to sum up for you. 1. Fan stays on and if you get out the car there will be a acrid burning smell accompanying this. 2. At idle the revs increase to 1000rpm when the car needs to actively carry out this. Start stop will not function until the regeneration has completed. 3. It's totally normal for this to happen. 4. You can turn the engine off during a regeneration process. It won't do any damage. 5. you will get a warning light if the DPF is too clogged. If you get this then don't ignore it else it could be costly. Hope that helps.

I've seen a video on YouTube of the heater matrix being changed without taking the dash out. It's tight but is possible from the footwells by removing the air duct and blower motor.