numskull

If it’s still in warranty, I’d get your dealer to diagnose it or if it’s out of warranty, get a VAG specialist to check it out. IMO, you can’t feck about with steering….

I suggest you get a reputable mobile wheel refurb Co to do it.

Don’t know if they’re designed to lower noise or just reduce drumming, but you can fit some thick foam pads and then should make a difference. As an aside. the tyre roar/road noise on ours has all but disappeared since I changed the P7’s for Conti All Season.

Well, I’m very happy with my RaceChip GTS Black. I don’t really give a toss about what the manufacturer says they give (although in a number of tests RaceChip units have been shown to be there or there abouts if the initial setup instructions are followed) but all I can say is the improvement, coupled with the XLR pedal box, is absolutely amazing. I didn’t want to go down the remap route immediately as it’s not transferable but if I ever did go for one, unlike the remap, it does have a resale value.

That’s a really helpful YT vid, thank you. I’m planning on changing the 280’s in the summer.

So, is the car permanently in LH mode? Have you been to a VAG specialist? If not, get to one as they’ll have the expertise, kit and they’ll be able to diagnose the actual issue. A quick Google brought up these three…

I can see the rear wheel when I’m reversing, but in my case, having the drivers seat in a certain position is also critical to enable this too.

Quiet possibly the worse call centre contractor in the world. They may well’’ve been “building” (repurposing) an office in Leeds, but that doesn’t mean that the calls will be answered by that centre, as they also have English-speaking centres in India, The Philippines, Malaysia and South Africa and they can route calls wherever TTEC see fit. They’re targeted to get call lengths minimised. The days of true customer service is well and truly over, with one of the last bastions of great service, namely John Lewis, now providing mediocrity at all levels.

I had the left unit not operating properly a couple of months ago on consecutive days. In the morning, it decided to park itself at the bottom of its travel and it stayed there. When I parked up and switched the car off, I tried them again and they were fine. Fine the next morning too. Then I left work after a couple of hours and it did it again! When I returned that afternoon they were fine and they’ve been so since. It’s a weird one….

What and where?

Hmmmm…. With a 900 year run-up, I suspect it’ll be a bit different to the announcement!

If that’s your way of doing things, then go ahead but as toot said, it’s not necessary. Oh, get the dealer to do it, so it’s noted on the service record.

Oh I see… so they only chuck-out aftermarket kit. 🙄

Probably the delivery pipe is blocked at the elbow about 4” below the nozzle. Suggest you try this….

WTF??? Well, I did say Allams are utterly bleeding useless. 🙄 What are SUK now going to do?

Definitely the boot lights on my case. I replaced the indicators with LED’s around a year prior to the boot and have had no issues.

Almost certainly the sound deadening mat has not been replaced. Was it replaced via a claim? If so, the insurer probably didn’t authorise the mat. If you paid for the repair, go and ask the bodyshop to fit it.

Could well be, as it certainly stays as the same setting on ours too…

I understand what you mean, but I’ve always worked on the basis that music in car is going to be a compromise. Even in the days when people refitted ridiculously expensive ICE, IMO the resulting output quality was not that great. Quality of OE ICE has improved dramatically over that past 20 years and I consider myself to be fortunate that the OE unit in the L&K is, to me, very impressive. Don’t believe everything you read on tyre reviews, given they’re not always representative of the “real world”; for that, read the user reviews, which give a more balanced insight to their performance under normal operating conditions. I’ve only covered 1,500 miles but that’s included snow and ice covered roads in Ireland over Christmas, and there was simply no comparison under those conditions vs. the P7’s a couple of years earlier which, had the car not been a 4x4, I doubt I’d’ve got home. Wet handling is better than the P7’s too. Hard acceleration has no loss of traction and braking in the wet or dry are there or there abouts too. They are not as good as the P7’s in turning-in performance, being a little slower to react as one turns a sharp corner, but so far, that’s about the only negative. Whether they’ll last as long as the P7’s, time will tell, but as most of the time I’m not a push on driver, fingers crossed they should be OK. I’ve done ours a couple of times now and it’s due to be done again….once the weather improves a bit!

What “stereo wireless” does the car have - a Columbus? Whilst ours is the unit with the up-spec speakers and sub, but a friend has the same type as yours and I have to say it’s great IMO. I had P7’s for 36k and they were really noisy and hard. I have Conti All Season now and they’re amazingly quiet and have excellent grip. Yep, the ARB bushings squeak and they’re worse in cold weather. A squirt of PTFE spray does help for a while.

Dammit!

I didn’t so thanks for putting me straight. 👍🏻

@stupe650 These sound great; are they a direct replacement for the active Monroes? What’s the all-up cost?

Racechip XLR.

Have a look under the car and see if you can see the GPF. It looks just like a DPF on a diesel.