kenfowler3966

They won't bargain further as contravenes their agreement with Carwow, hence get the carwow quote in anothers name, and then negotiate as the final deal can't be related back to the carwow quote and thus be breaking their contract. If you think about it they are paying carwow a commision and if they do a deal with you direct after they have quoted to you via carwow, they are effectively trying to sidestep their commision to carwow and use the saving in commision to sweeten the deal.

Don't they only supply this with the L&K trim, rare car in that spec and engine choice, and you end up with the sunroof and all its potential problems?

It feels bigger inside, particularly in width and length, boot is longer from rear to seats, seats are more comfortable, and ride is fantastic compared to Yeti, even though my car has the 19" wheels as standard. Actually running on the 16" winter wheels I bought for my Yeti now, third winters use, and the ride is even better on these. I never had a spare in the Yeti as it took too much of the boot. My Karoq came without a spare, but I have now retroffitted a spacesaver. This does take space in the 4x4 that I have but is still acceptable. In the 2wd you can fit a spacesaver with no loss of bootspace in existing floor recess, or indeed have a full size spare and raise the floor as you have to in the 4x4. The auto brake works so much better with the dsg than having to keep your foot on the brake in the Yeti. The Karoq just feels a generation newer, as design is 8 years newer than Yeti and there has been so much advance in technology. I have a foot sensor operated tailgate, my wife could never shut the Yeti tailgate. My car has the rear camera as standard, sensors for vehicles to the side, auto braking if you are about to reverse into something, digital dash etc, although some of these would have been extras. The 4x4 Karoq has a better rear suspension design with independent links compared to the 2wd Karoqs, and the 190ps diesel is so smooth and powerful, and quiet. What you actually get though depends on the model. I had the Yeti 150 dsg SEL Drive, with a rear camera, rear airbags, underbody protection and other extras. Now have the Karoq Edition with some extras. (Some I don't need as well such as rear seat heaters & towbar prep, but thats what happens when you buy a car from the showroom. Would have liked underbody protection and rear airbags, but can't have everything and make the decision and collect car next day)

I bought my last yeti via car wow quote from Doncaster. Salesman said he had to sell to me at that price, but could have done a better deal if I had gone in directly to him? If I did it again I would get the quote in my wife’s name then try for a better deal for me.

The 2017 150 ps tdi Yeti had as much power as I ever needed.... so much better than the 110 Yeti i had in 2010 and the 105 greenline in 2014. (Was the most powerful car I had ever had up to then) However I now have a 190ps Karoq which is another step up again and effortless to drive.

It’s 40k for its service whether it takes you 2 years or 6 years, not a time related item like the cambelt

That’s not completely correct as car often stops engine at junction at end of street only a minute or so after a cold start. So it will stop if coolant not up to temperature. As it is a dodgy junction I now turn the system off until I have safely pulled away from it.

Didn't stop me driving off into a concrete planter which I couldn't see after leaving a parking spot. Scratched front under bumper area, two days after getting my car. It does keep stopping the car due to vegetation next to my car though when going along my drive

Why not just by a set of winter wheels and tyres. I have mine on now using steel wheels, and then the summer tyres last a lot longer and the alloys are protected from salt etc. Mine are on their third winter after last two on previous Yeti. 16” 6j wheels I was sold for Yeti are perfect for Karoq but apparently I should have had 7j for Yeti!

My car with the summer tyres is 75 and with winter maybe 77 for a true 70

The trouble is you probably need to do an indicated 76 to actually be doing a true 70, so are constantly getting a warning!

4x4 is working a lot more than you think. I had it on last Yeti and now on Karoq. It definitely got me off a muddy parking area that my previous Yeti would have got stuck in more than once. When you pull out of a junction sharply you often feel the rear drive joining in instead of spinning a front wheel

I havent bothered with mudflaps for years as driving company lease cars, but as I am retiring next year I now own my own Karoq. Do mudflaps really make much difference? I have had them on previous cars and managed to rip them off? How resilient are they and do they reduce effective clearance when driving over lumps on tracks?

Takes some time before they respond and slow to confirm once paid, but I cleared my agreement before first payment was due at end of the first 3 months which was free at the time. You need their letter confirming they have no further interest in the car for legal proof of ownership.

I have 16” wheels with winter tyres on now. There is very little clearance to the brakes but do fit fine

The stop start will not engage if the battery is down on volts, so it is unlikely?

In my Yeti I was uploading compatible VW maps as the Skoda ones didn't work properly at the time. My yeti had the recent new street where my daughter now lives on the VW map, but new 20 reg Karoq with latest available maps does not!! You would think the VW/Audi/Skoda group would at least use the same map updates and be all up to date!

I cant be certain but understand it depends on the repair category it is assessed in. Minor repairs don't get recorded, major ones do, and if assesed in the worst category repairs are not usually permitted. Major permitted repairs can be inspected I believe and if it passes all the checks the damage is no longer logged

If its any comfort my car had a flat battery the day after I collected it, and despite the recovery service getting it going and my putting on charge for 24 hours did it again 5 days later. The AA came out both times, very quickly and helped me take the car back to the dealer and got them to replace the battery. Excellant service under the warranty.

If it is new enough they can move all the parts to a new bodyshell, but you wouldn't want to have it back afterwards as it is almost impossible to do 100% correct

The motion sensing key switches off after it is left stationary for 15 mins, until it moves again, hence it is not transmitting all the time for the car to receive when nearby. All MY20 cars and later should have this and the battery will last much longer. It also removes the risk of an amplifier put next to your house and receiver/transmitter at the car some distance away allowing entry and driving off without the key. It is important to put the key away when you come into the house so it is stationary, and not keep it in your pocket at home for this reason, otherwise it will only go off whilst you are asleep. The door handle is the same whichever key you have, and in use you will not notice any difference.

We are on our 7th Skoda and 200k plus miles and I have never had to top up the oil between services, most of which have been on extended intervals of about 18k miles. I don’t know where you have come up with them burning oil!

The Yeti is notorious for the wiring between car and door failing anyway on earlier cars. Disturbing it to repair the door may have broken the led wire

I did wonder if you could plug a battery charger into the 12v socket after opening the drivers door with the emergency key? After charging for a bit it may put enough into the dead battery and allow the other doors to be opened?

Clearly the battery had some power left as although the engine would not crank the door locks still worked. I will be careful not to fully flatten it in the future if the issue arises again. Thanks for the warning. As car is hardly being used during lockdown again I have it on charge this morning for safety.