JR RS

I did consider that, and that was my initial plan, but why waste money when I have an unused key sitting in the cupboard. Now that I've learnt how to take it apart, next I will have no hesitation in getting a replacement key shell.

The buttons on Gandalf's main key fob were getting "lethargic" after almost 7 yrs of service. So I decided to fix it by transplanting the buttons from my unused 3rd key fob. The button presses r much better now. I decided to make a video and share it for anyone that may need to "repair" their key fob. The same process applies to the Kodiaq MK2 and Passat B8 key fobs, with KESSY.

The ambient lighting trim bit is plastic riveted to the door card. U can see it in the pic below. This is my rear door card.

No rubbing at all. Compared to the factory size (235/40r19), this size (245/40r19) is more comfortable, more affordable, better availablity (more brand choices), and speedo is more accurate. Many Superb owners have made this switch. Highly recommended.

Speaking of tyres on a hatch, 2017, and 220 - I'm really happy with the Continental MaxContact6 tyres on mine. 245/40r19.

based on the part number in ur image - 565035021C, u have a MIB2.5 unit - these r NOT capable of wireless Android Auto or CarPlay, no matter the firmware update. Only MIB3 units r capable of wireless. if u want wireless AA, i suggest u get an add-on dongle, like AAWireless. i have been using one of these for many years now. see image below. its great. if u want to update ur firmware - i've made a how-to for it for when i updated my unit. - Firmware Update Guide v1.0.pdf

Watching the SLA in action is mesmerising!

Front.... Rear....

@george_d - doubt it will work at all. A heated steering wheel uses a 14-pin connector. A non-heated steering wheel uses a 16-pin connector. Unless u get a Kufatec connector conversion.

if i remember correctly - a heated steering wheel requires a different steering clock spring. this is due to the differences in the wiring required for the heated steering wheel. so i don't think it will b possible to simply change the wheel alone.

Another vote for mudflaps - really useful in keep most of the crap off the sides of the car. I initially had AliExpress mudflaps, however I replaced them as they were much smaller than the Skoda original mudflaps, which I have on now.

As posted above - check ur Door unlocking selection under Open and Closing settings....

Damn....that's a massive difference between the before and after measures!! Good to hear it's made a difference.

@enoktakenokta - yes it can b done, but NOT with ur regular tools such as VCDS and OBDEleven. u need a modified (by someone who knows what they're doing) Gateway parameter file, and specialist tools (such as VCP or ODIS) to upload the file to the car. i've had it done on mine, paid a person i knew to modify it for me. the intervention time was increased from 12 to 60 secs. its great having that extra time, however i only mainly use it on highways/motorways.

Nice work in diagnosing the issue. With regards to ur OCD, yeah, in theory the new bulb will shine brighter, especially if ur other one is a couple of years old. The ballast won't affect the brightness if it's the same power/specs.

Sorry, unfortunately I don't have the coding required for MY15 and MY16, nor do I have the parameter file for 55-headlight module.

@Iryngael - Lane Assist uses front camera (A5 in windscreen) and ACC radar (also used for Front Assist), behind the centre grille cover. Lane Change Assist uses blind spot radars inside the rear bumper.

Do u happen to have a part number for that?

In addition to the ballasts, also swap the control modules - there r 2x per headlight, underneath. Ballast u can swap without removing the headlight. Unfortunately with control modules, u'll need to get access under the headlights. Easiest way is front wheels off, wheel arch liner off - u will the have access to the back and underneath the headlight. Alternatively, try removing the engine under tray, u might b able to reach the modules, with long skinny hands. Sometimes these modules can get affected by too much moisture build up inside the headlight and subsequently fail. If swapping the 2x modules and ballast make no difference - then u'll likely need to replace the whole unit. .... assuming ur fuse is fine.

They put in fresh G13 coolant. In two years time, during the service, I'll ask them to put the G12evo in.

Had the Water pump on Gandalf replaced today, along with a new revision non-silikant coolant tank. Parts used:- P673 - Hepu Thermostat and Water Pump Assembly - MQB 1.8/2.0 TSI (06L121111H) 06L121131 - Union for Water - VAG MQB 1.8/2.0 TSI 5Q0121407M - Coolant Reservoir - VAG MQB

Had the Water pump on Gandalf replaced today, along with a new revision non-silikant coolant tank. Right on queue (almost done 90k kms) Gandalf started losing coolant very slowly over the last few months. I would have to top it up with distilled water to the Max line, and over a period of 4 wks or so, it would drop halfway between Min and Max. All fixed now. Parts used:- P673 - Hepu Thermostat and Water Pump Assembly - MQB 1.8/2.0 TSI (06L121111H) 06L121131 - Union for Water - VAG MQB 1.8/2.0 TSI 5Q0121407M - Coolant Reservoir - VAG MQB

Mine is MY17 with a build sticker in the boot and another in the Owner's manual.

@dwinaus - thank u whilst i really like the factory 19" Trinity rims, it was time to change Gandalf's look after 6 yrs plus. i wasn't sure how well the Rotiform LAS-R rims would work on the Superb, but i'm glad i went with it. Suits the theme i had going. lol - that rear three quarter shot always makes me turn around so can i have one last look, or two, or three, as i walk away after parking the car. Wat Superb did u get?

I have the 220 FWD - in the past (when I had indirect TPMS) when I put the 16" spare tyre on the rear, it would upset the TPMS, and disable cruise control, lane assist and front assist. It knows there is a different sized tire on, so it disables the appropriate assist systems.