JR RS

There is no "special" DCC shocks for L&K. It's the same DCC used across all models, if equipped. It's the same used with VW, Audi, & Seat. Shocks will either have the electronic valve (DCC) or not (standard).

This is on mine - MY17. We don't get L&K version here in Oz, but according to Skoda Erwin, it's based on a Style. From MY18 onwards it became full color, i.e. it changed the background color to match the ambient lighting color. Pre-MY18 can't do this sadly.

+1 Mine is almost 7 yrs now and the DCC shocks r still good. 5 of those 7 yrs have been paired with Eibach Pro-kit Springs. No issues. U need to use the Search function of this forum - u'll find the info u need. You can find the how-to guide for the DCC Recalibration here. As for the DCC Slider Mod, u can find that discussion here.

Sorry to hear the troubles ur going through with ur car. In my opinion and experience, the DCC shocks r not bad, out of the factory. They r however brilliant after doing the DCC Slider Mod and DCC recalibration. In terms of DCC delete, i.e. switching to non-DCC is not a wise move as it will impact other systems such as the headlights and steering. The picture below shows the bits n pieces related to and connected to the DCC. Hence a simple DCC delete kit will not b enough, and b mindful of the implications if u go down this path.

Gandalf got a wash over the weekend after a 4 month dry spell 😁

The start stop loom "intercepts" the factory wiring and the switch connector. It sits under the gear lever, and as mentioned above, it needs to b tucked away in a tight space. Also if u have LHD, u'll find it harder in terms of cable length due to the position of the start stop button. Mine is RHD, so it was not difficult as the switch is on the opposite side.

MY17 Superb 220. If by "pigweed" u mean steering wheel - yes, as per my post, my original had DSG paddles already.

the OEM DCC Monroe shocks r brilliant IF u've done the DCC Slider mod and the DCC re-calibration. way way cheaper than aftermarket shocks, u retain the integration with other systems in the car, and u get a much much better ride and comfort, even with 19s 🙂 as @MarkyTDI indicated, it is the software parameter file that makes a world of difference. APR offer a SCU (suspension control unit) which essentially does the same thing as the DCC Slider Mod, but it costs 10-15x more and they replace the entice DCC module with one of theirs. the DCC Slider Mod takes the suspension parameters from the Arteon, and loads it into the DCC Module. the issue with the bilstein damptronic shocks is that their valve can't control both rebound and compression, whereas the OEM shocks does both. mine r still on original factory DCC shocks, which have been paired with Eibach Pro-kit springs for 5+ yrs now. i did the DCC slider mod about 2 yrs ago now.

I retrofitted a flat bottom steering wheel with this part 565 419 091 E BGW My factory one was 3V0 419 091 S CWE. Plug n play as both were DSG version, and same buttons. No heating.

Just saying.....the APR TCU DQ250 tune is smooth as well 🙂

I don't know about the TVS tune, but I have the APR TCU (DSG) Tune on my 220, which is paired with an APR Stg 1 ECU Hi-torque tune. The TCU tune has certainly made the transmission better, especially in terms of making Sports mode useable. Before the tune, whenever I put the car Sport, I would shift the lever to Manual shifting cause I hated how it would hold the gears far too long. After the tune, it's much much better and less insane. I don't need to do Manual shifting anymore in Sports mode. A pedal box or throttle controller won't make it any better as it will still rev too high and hold gears too long. I would however recommend it for much much better throttle response. It awakens the car and makes it feel less responsive. I had the car dyno'ed last year. The DSG tune helped in getting more power out. These were the figures at the wheels - 223kw / 533 Nm Did 3 runs, each run was the same power. Top end it runs out of puff cause of the high intake air temps. I've since got an IE intercooler fitted - need to do another Dyno run.

wat @leolito said above......

I've heard of some people saying they could do it via VCDS. I'm not sure though. I used OBDEleven. I would imagine ODIS can do it, or maybe that was VCP.

i bought roof racks for my Octavia RS MY11 lift-back back in 2015. Whilst i sold my Octavia RS, i kept the roof racks which work perfectly well on my current Superb MY17 lift-back. i had to widen the width of the rack feet, but the feet mounts fit nicely, and lock in solid. so despite being completely different era/platform - the mounts were compatible between the two lift-backs. i can't comment about wagons/SUVs. close up of my roof racks...

+1 i've been using AliExpress metal caps on Gandalf for almost 6 yrs now, no rust/corrosion whatsoever. not faded either as the car is garaged.

I've been using AAWireless for a number of years now - highly recommended. Never had dropouts or performance issues. Connects every time. Good quality.

the factory xenon bulb is powered by a ballast (8K0 941 597 B), controlled by the light control module (8U0 941 329 version A headlights; 4H0 941 329 version B headlights), which is in turn governed by the AFS Module (3Q0 907 338 - 4B Multi-function module). The LCMs r sub-systems (slaves) of the AFS module. the power consumption of the xenon bulb, and the ballast, is rated up to 35W. the LED bulb takes the place of the xenon, consuming the same power - up to 35W. given there is no change in power/current drawn, all the systems r happy, and nothing is reported back to the "CANBUS".

I thought mine was back too because I did a scan last night and there was a warning on 08 Air Conditioning module!! "B10CD00 - Function limitation due to energy management" Different message to wat I was getting before I changed the AQS sensor. Never seen that warning before. Hopefully it's just a one off. I've cleared it now. Will keep an eye on it to see if it comes back.

Obviously only applies to the facelift Superb. I can see why though given it uses a different ACC radar, and possibly A5 camera, to the pre-facelift Superb. Tis a shame.

Thanks for the clarification there. I'm pretty sure there will b something, somewhere, in the compliance rules here in Oz that will imply this mod is a fail/illegal too.

In theory yes, hence why time will tell. 🙂 Either it will b fine, or it will fail miserably.

The LED will work fine, but ideally the heatsink should b ventilated. Given the heatsink and fan is inside the headlight with the cover closed, the question is how long will the diode last. Should b fine, but time will tell. The important thing for me was that the beam pattern was spot on like the xenon bulb. I didn't want an LED bulb that threw the light beam incorrectly, and scattering the light all over the place. Wat is the "bulb monitoring option" u referring to? If u mean the CANBUS monitoring that tells u if a bulb is faulty - yes it does. In fact most Skoda models do that.

Doesn't look like Skoda wheels, despite the centre caps being Skoda.

Egg-jacktly, Gandalf has factory bi-xenon (HID). All I've done is replaced the xenon bulb with an LED bulb. Everything is exactly the same, wiring and all. Whilst @Winston_Woof was quick to say this would b a fail, in the very same post, in his quote, it goes on to say it is legal if U already had HID headlights. "If a complete headlamp unit has been replaced with a unit that was manufactured with HID or LED light sources, it must not be failed for ‘Light source and lamp not compatible’ but it must meet all other requirements detailed in section 4 of this manual specific to the type fitted at the time of test." The reason I hadn't done this earlier was that I was concerned about putting a bulb with a fan on the back of it, sucking out the heat generated, all inside the headlight unit. But with research and time, I became comfortable with the idea and committed.

Correct, the car is more than likely jacked up at a different position. The comparison was from a pic I took 2 yrs ago. Hence the different garage setup between the before and after.