JR RS

As posted above - check ur Door unlocking selection under Open and Closing settings....

Damn....that's a massive difference between the before and after measures!! Good to hear it's made a difference.

@enoktakenokta - yes it can b done, but NOT with ur regular tools such as VCDS and OBDEleven. u need a modified (by someone who knows what they're doing) Gateway parameter file, and specialist tools (such as VCP or ODIS) to upload the file to the car. i've had it done on mine, paid a person i knew to modify it for me. the intervention time was increased from 12 to 60 secs. its great having that extra time, however i only mainly use it on highways/motorways.

Nice work in diagnosing the issue. With regards to ur OCD, yeah, in theory the new bulb will shine brighter, especially if ur other one is a couple of years old. The ballast won't affect the brightness if it's the same power/specs.

Sorry, unfortunately I don't have the coding required for MY15 and MY16, nor do I have the parameter file for 55-headlight module.

@Iryngael - Lane Assist uses front camera (A5 in windscreen) and ACC radar (also used for Front Assist), behind the centre grille cover. Lane Change Assist uses blind spot radars inside the rear bumper.

Do u happen to have a part number for that?

In addition to the ballasts, also swap the control modules - there r 2x per headlight, underneath. Ballast u can swap without removing the headlight. Unfortunately with control modules, u'll need to get access under the headlights. Easiest way is front wheels off, wheel arch liner off - u will the have access to the back and underneath the headlight. Alternatively, try removing the engine under tray, u might b able to reach the modules, with long skinny hands. Sometimes these modules can get affected by too much moisture build up inside the headlight and subsequently fail. If swapping the 2x modules and ballast make no difference - then u'll likely need to replace the whole unit. .... assuming ur fuse is fine.

They put in fresh G13 coolant. In two years time, during the service, I'll ask them to put the G12evo in.

Had the Water pump on Gandalf replaced today, along with a new revision non-silikant coolant tank. Parts used:- P673 - Hepu Thermostat and Water Pump Assembly - MQB 1.8/2.0 TSI (06L121111H) 06L121131 - Union for Water - VAG MQB 1.8/2.0 TSI 5Q0121407M - Coolant Reservoir - VAG MQB

Had the Water pump on Gandalf replaced today, along with a new revision non-silikant coolant tank. Right on queue (almost done 90k kms) Gandalf started losing coolant very slowly over the last few months. I would have to top it up with distilled water to the Max line, and over a period of 4 wks or so, it would drop halfway between Min and Max. All fixed now. Parts used:- P673 - Hepu Thermostat and Water Pump Assembly - MQB 1.8/2.0 TSI (06L121111H) 06L121131 - Union for Water - VAG MQB 1.8/2.0 TSI 5Q0121407M - Coolant Reservoir - VAG MQB

Mine is MY17 with a build sticker in the boot and another in the Owner's manual.

@dwinaus - thank u whilst i really like the factory 19" Trinity rims, it was time to change Gandalf's look after 6 yrs plus. i wasn't sure how well the Rotiform LAS-R rims would work on the Superb, but i'm glad i went with it. Suits the theme i had going. lol - that rear three quarter shot always makes me turn around so can i have one last look, or two, or three, as i walk away after parking the car. Wat Superb did u get?

I have the 220 FWD - in the past (when I had indirect TPMS) when I put the 16" spare tyre on the rear, it would upset the TPMS, and disable cruise control, lane assist and front assist. It knows there is a different sized tire on, so it disables the appropriate assist systems.

With Indirect TPMS, also known as Tire Pressure Loss Indicator, it uses the ABS sensors to determine each wheel's rotational speed. If one of them is off in comparison to the others, it will set of the TPMS alarm. Usually this equates to 4 psi or more. It can only do this comparison when the car is moving. If the pressures r the same, but the tires r worn out differently, it will rotate at a different speed, and may trigger the TPMS. If the brakes r binding, it will rotate at a different speed, and may trigger the TPMS. If one of the wheel bearings is worn, it will rotate at a different speed, and may trigger the TPMS. Hence there r multiple reasons for the TPMS to b upset. With direct TPMS, which is not available on the Superb, it doesn't rely on the ABS wheel sensors. Instead it has 4x sensors, one in each wheel, and a TPMS module (receiver). It measures the actual tire pressure, which gets displayed on screen. As @MartiniB indicated, there is the option to fit an aftermarket TPMS system, to monitor ur tire pressure live. in my case - I retrofitted the VW/Skoda TPMS system.

MIB2 & MIB2.5 can't do wireless. U need a wireless dongle device. MIB3 can do wireless.

Likely because the SuperPro Lower arms are not correct length for the Superb. I believe the TRC1070 (used for the mk7 Golf) is too short for the Superb, i.e. 313mm. The Superb needs a length of 327mm. See L2 in the pics below.

+1 Mine is MY17, still like new.

These r the instructions I made & used, based on sources I found.....

There is no requirement to do the DCC recalibration - it will continue to work with no issues. However it is highly beneficial to do it, especially if u want the shocks dampening (compression & rebound) to work well with the springs. It made a huge difference to me. the "science" behind the DCC recalibration..... "calibration is done with all four wheels off the ground, so the DCC module stores the fully extended value of the sensors. The theory is then that once the car is back on the ground the DCC module stores a "center" value. From that point it's able to do its thing based on the position of the level sensors, the accelerometers and your selected mode."

U'll need to recalibrate the DCC if u increase or decrease the spring height. This requires OBDEleven or VCDS, and all 4 wheels suspended in the air.

i take it you didn't make a backup before u went made all those changes?!?! also, for the DRL stripes to work, u need version B bi-xenon headlights, not version A. u can tell by the part number on top of each headlight.

So it's a MY18 onwards thing.

Wat's a lower spec radio? I have the MIB2 Columbus "high" unit, and I have the button on the B-pillar.

@Bap33 - sadly that didn't make a difference. I believe something changed from MY17 to MY18. Hence why it's not working on pre-MY18. Would b interesting to see how @Karlc28 got it going working on their MY17. Probably it's a 2017 build MY18, which would explain why it's working.