JR RS

Would appear then u don't get the rear clock display if u have tri-zone climatronic. Tis a shame. But then again, the tri-zone climate control would b more useful.

As @ApertureS indicated above - yes it crucial u get the correct version - i.e. RHD in ur case. 3Vx 941 01y A - x=LHD(1) / RHD(2) y=left(5) / right(6)

Wow, I didn't know there was a version of the rear aircon controls that shows the time n outside temp!! Mine only shows the set climatronic temp. Mine is tri-zone climatronic. No outside temp or clock. I notice in the pic above it doesn't have the temp control, whereas mine does, which is specific for the rear zone only. This is mine....

If u have DCC, the drop will only b 20-25mm. 35mm drop is for standard non-DCC cars. DCC is already 10-15mm lower than standard non-DCC, hence less drop with the lowering springs. Now that ur lowered - I would recommend u get a DCC recalibration done - will make the car even better, and stop crashing/bottoming out altogether. I did it 6 months after my car was lowered on Eibach Pro-kit springs and it made a big difference. Regarding spacers, yup 15mm hub-centrics r a good size to have.

No, it's the same as the rest of the world. Just some driver's personalisations. Skoda doesn't have a Superb vRS in any market.

Essentially, at 7m away, the top of the low beam shining on the wall should be at or slightly below the height of the center of the headlight projector lens. hence u need to measure:- 1. centre of project lens to the ground 2. top of low beam cut-off to the ground. #2 should not exceed #1. ideally, #2 should b between 2-5cms lower than #1. obviously the ground must b level/flat.

@mfearnuk- as @Bap33 explained - u can't adjust the low beam and high beam range separately. The manual adjuster moves the entire headlight internals. the mk3 pre-facelift is Bi-Xenon, i.e. it has a single xenon bulb that does both low and high beams, using the same projector housing. To make small adjustments to the headlight throw:- 1. Park the car approx. 7m away from a wall. 2. Turn headlights on. 3. adjust the nut labeled #3 and 4 in the pic below, as needed. make very very small turns (less than a quarter turn) each time. u'll the beam raise or lower, depending on which way u turn it. warning - if u make too much of an adjustment, u risk damaging the gears inside it. if u need to make large adjustments, u need to use VCDS to put the headlights in "learning mode", make the changes, then save the new position.

DCC is also connected to Steering and Braking. The same vehicle level sensors used by DCC also feed the headlight range control.

Sadly not an easy job. To remove the headlight, u need to remove front wheels, wheel arch liner, and front bumper. I've attached a how-to-guide I made. Removing Front Bumper.pdf

Hmmm.....in that case try changing the Light Control Module (LED Driver) first - its plugged into the bottom of the headlight. Part No. is 8U0 941 329 Tis the black module in the 2nd pic below.

i'm assuming the indicator is also affected by this too. look at local wreckers for a secondhand one. if ur sourcing from overseas - make sure u get the right version, i.e. 3V2941015B. u can buy them from overseas for a 3rd of wat the dealer is asking!!! $1650 is robbery!!

PR-1D4 = Swivelling trailer hitch PR-1D0 = without trailer hitch preparation PR-1D7 = with trailer hitch preparation If factory fitted, u'll have both PR codes 1D7 & 1D4. So if you have the 1D7 code all you need is the Trailer Detector Control Unit (J345) and the wiring to the socket, and the socket near the tow bar. Install that then you need to get the car coded at the dealer (or do it with VCDS if you have one).

If factory fitted - yes, because Australia is a "hot country" classification. PR code is 8Z6. PR code for trailer preparation is 1D7. If dealer fitted or aftermarket - it won't have it, unless it came with Towbar/Trailer Preparation.

+1 I think I read that somewhere too - "Skoda fits an upgraded radiator and oil cooler for the gearbox when a towbar is factory fitted, to allow the vehicle to happily stay inside operating parameters while towing at full capacity."

Sorry, yes that is not-MQB friendly. With regards to the mk3 Superb - the problem is that the windows/sunroof are not powered anymore after doors r locked. The early MY15 Superb was able to do it, and they came with the RLFS sensor. Later Superbs came with RLHS sensors. So even if u put the RLFS sensor in a MY16> auto close won't work. Tis a shame.

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1K0 955 559 AH Labels: 1K0-955-559-AG.CLB Component: RLS 260810 05 54 0403 Coding: 0730ED

my understanding is that u need the "RLS" sensor for it to work. RLFS or RLHS won't work in the Superb.

+1 Also, the eyebrows use LED lamps, not bulbs.

Not a helpful comment for this discussion - but the high beams in my Superb r brilliant. They light up far and the low beams cover the width nicely. I did change the factory xenon bulbs to the Phillips XtremeVision Gen2 though. Good luck with hooking up ur LED light bar.

Put front of the car on jack stands, remove front wheels, remove wheel arch liners. Page 1 is specific to the wheel arch liner. Removing Front Bumper.pdf

Yes, both sides wheel arch liners. How-to-guide here -

280 came with DQ250 (DSG-6 wet). The later 272 comes with the newer DQ380/381. I think the Kodiaq RS Bi-turbo diesel came with the DQ500.

The new facelift steering wheel looks nice.

None of the mk3 Superb models come equipped with the DQ500 DSG box.

It's behind the upper grille. There r two, next to the headlights. Blue arrows in pic below.