JR RS

Indeed, which is why I'm putting the extensions on it. Much easier to use then, and fun.

Currently yes. But if u were driving straight on a highway/freeway - even with ur hands on the wheel, the steering rack will get no input if u don't tweak it, hence the lane assist will instruct u to take over after 12 secs. But with the other version, it will know ur hands r on the wheel, without having to tweak the wheel.

Flattened Gandalf's steering wheel today. Got the Sportline steering wheel for a price I couldn't resist. Original wheel - 3VO 419 091 S CWE Sportline wheel - 565 419 091 E BGW Swapping out the wheel was quick and easy. I did not disconnect the car battery. With the car running, popped out one side of the airbag clip, turned the wheel over, popped out the other side. Left the airbag module in the wheel, straightened the steering wheel, turned off the car and left it for 20 mins to "sleep". Then unclip the connectors, remove bolt with M12, to remove the wheel. Put Sportline wheel in place and tighten bolt, taking care to put it in the exact same spot/alignment. Plug in the connectors. Push airbag module into place. Done. I do miss the DSG paddle shifter extensions though on the Sportline wheel, so I've got a new set on the way, similar to the one I had.

ah yes, that way. would certainly love that as it bugs me when the car tells me to put my hands on the wheel when i've been holding it the whole time, but going only straight! i heard the current Passat B8 has that "i know ur holding the wheel" feature.

thankfully these aren't, unlike the VW cousins - theses new ones r still proper buttons. a big relieve as i haven't heard off anyone praising capacitive touch style buttons.

Umm....read the 2nd post above..... But yes, loving it still.

This cost me $110 AUD. Maxton would've cost me $400 plus. Kopacek one would've cost me about $400. Original Sportline one would've cost me about $600. It was a gamble I took and I was surprisingly pleased.

The bolt being referred to. Easy to access and do. Just make sure u have a breaker bar to get it loose, and u torque it back up to 140 Nm.

I have those same tyre sensors, same TPMS module. They should come pre-paired to the module. If not, as @langers2k mentioned, then u need a specialist TPMS diagnostic tool to program the sensors. These aren't cheap, or readily available. Also, this type of TPMS module can only b paired/programmed with 4 sensors max. So u can't have a 5th wheel spare sensor, or another set of 4x sensors for ur winter tyres n expect them to show. Also, the tyre pressures won't b read until the sensor has been rotating inside the tyre for a few meters at a minimum. This is to determine each sensor's position relative to the module. The first time I installed mine, I drove a good 100m or so before the tyre pressures were shown on screen. Part of the initial learning/calibration I'd say. After that, it only needs a few meters of travel to see pressures.

I too recently fitted a boot lid spoiler. Got it from AliExpress. Happy with the finish, fit & quality, given it costs a whole lot less.

No, the spacers r not required. The 245 tyres do not rub anywhere. But if u put too wide a spacer with 245 tyres, it will rub on the outside, fender. I put the spacers for aesthetics.

Orange/Brown = CANBUS Low Orange/Grey = CANBUS High

I don't know wat the connections should look like when connected to the BCM module as I tapped into the CANBUS high & low at the blind spot module (master) inside the rear bumper. I've got the same part numbers as u, from AliExpress.

@knorac- that error looks like it's not connected properly to the CANBUS. Does the module have the parameter file loaded in it? Also, where have u sourced the permanent 12v power source for the TPMS module from?

I had the same experience too fitting a lower insert dogbone mount in my 220, but I went with the 034-motorsport. Been 2+ yrs now. Still loving it & going strong. No more axle-tramp. Gear shifts r crisp. Engine feels more responsive.

I changed mine to Whiteline endlinks. Tis not required as the factory ones r good, but I wanted to, for peace of mind, given my car is lowered 20mm.

Same here. In my Individual mode - everything, except Engine and Air-conditioning, is set to "Sport". Everything else is retained on ignition.

No, Eco is its own Drive mode, i.e. E1, E2, E3, E4 etc. etc. There r only 3 Drive modes for engine/transmission - Eco, Normal & Sport. Eco = E1, E2, E3, E4, E5, E6 Normal = D1, D2, D3, D4, D5, D6 Sport = S1, S2, S3, S4, S5, S6 U can put the car into Manual in any of those.

folks need to remember there is a distinction between Driving Mode and Drive Mode. Driving mode refers to the driving profile characteristics. this includes a number of things, such as steering, drive, suspension, air-con etc. etc. see image below. Options r can b Eco/Normal/Sport, or if u have DCC Eco/Comfort/Normal/Sport/Individial. This does not reset each time the car is restarted. Drive mode refers to the engine + transmission behaviour/mapping ONLY. Options r Eco/Normal/Sport. The Drive mode is just one of many Driving mode characteristics. It is set when u select a driving mode profile. This resets to Normal each time the car is restarted. Not the Driving Mode - just the Drive mode is reset. This is to do with the emissions control mentioned already in an earlier post above. My Superb MY17 will remain in watever Driving Mode Selection (Eco/Comfort/Normal/Sport/Individual), but regardless of wat the driving mode selected, the Drive mode will always revert to "Normal" when the car is started. Hence it will show D1,D2,D3 etc etc upon restart, despite the driving mode still being set to Eco/Sport/Individual. u need to re-select the driving mode for it the engine drive mode to matching the driving profile.

They physically have it, yes, but version A only has the stripes, which is wat u see from the outside, but not the hardware (light optics) to make them light up.

Not quite correct. It will only ever show "Dynamic Light Assist" in the infotainment, if u have HBA enabled, or have SLA headlights, but u won't b able to distinguish between version A and B headlights with this. if u don't have HBA enabled and version A headlights - it will show "Light Assist". if u have HBA enabled and version A headlights - it will change to "Dynamic Light Assist" version B will already show "Dynamic Light Assist".

@travs - u have a facelift. They have an entirely different headlight setup, especially the hardware & electronics. They behave different too. The coding & discussion above is pre-facelift related. The coding is not applicable to the facelift version.

The eyelashes on mine are always on. - Auto or Off: DRL stripe full brightness, Eyelashes full brightness (u can see it in the image below, and the previous image i posted) - Side light on: DRL stripe dimmed, Eyelashes dimmed - Low beam on: DRL stripe dimmed, Eyelashes dimmed

I've been running Android 12 on my Pixel 5 for a few months now - Android Auto is still behaving fine. I am using an AAWireless dongle though, nonetheless, that shouldn't make a difference.

Bugger, that's no good. Mine worked first time, and I know of others over the years who have also successfully coded it. If u have version B headlights, by default, the whiskers will only light up when the low beams r on. In DRL or side light position the whiskers r off. The coding posted enables the whiskers in all positions. The should dim, like the DRL strip, when either in side light position, or low beams r on.