JR RS

It certainly made a noticeable difference for my Superb. No placebo effect for sure.

I did the second one - it made a slight improvement, which I'm happy with. I didn't do the Audi mode as explained by @Bap33

AAWireless + MIB2/2.5 is way way more stable and less buggy than MIB3 with native wireless Android Auto or CarPlay.

i made that doc myself, based on the Tried and Tested VCDS codes for Superb, and other OBDeleven discussions. VCDS Coding v1.1 - Superb MY17 - JR.pdf

I was meant to say the changes were specific to modules 09, 4B and 55 only. TSR has nothing to do with these modules. Hence there is no difference in enabling TSR between MY16 & MY17. To enable TSR, u need to make changes in 5F, A5, and 17.

That's exactly wat I did - and the DRL menu is enabled. Mine is MY17 though. I do know things changed between MY16 and MY17. For example MY17 onwards no longer has module 55 headlights. Instead this is now under module 4B multi-function. Likewise, from MY17 onwards, there is no long coding anymore - it all via adaptations. Maybe with urs, being an MY16, it needs to be done via the long coding.

My Superb (MY17) came with only 1 USB port, next to the phonebox, so yes. It has to b a data enabled USB port, hence connecting a USB adaptor or something to the 12V socket at the rear of the console will not work.

U need a trim removal tool, pry carefully from the top, leveraging it upwards. Where the arrow is in the bottom pic. Then do the same from the bottom.

Congrats on ur first Skoda. Yes, with the AAWireless device, u can use Android Auto wireless. I've been using mine for a couple of months now - it's been flawless, great and so convenient. No, normally there isn't a USB port inside the centre arm console. I routed the one from the front to inside that compartment. See pic below. The proper way would b to retrofit an additional port, hence utilising the blank cover (under the light). But this retrofit requires a lot more work, more wiring, more parts and coding. I'll do it one day. For now, this way works nicely, for now.

i take it u don't have DCC suspension? the ride with 19s is very comfortable when paired with DCC, even with my car lowered on Eibach springs. also, a number of owners have switched from the factory 235/40R19 to 245/40R19 tyres. the extra 5mm sidewall thinkness adds to more cushioning of bumps, potholes and road noise.

Yup, not doubting wat u said. Just shocked at how much time the dealer quoted - they really milking it!! The actual radar calibration process, including the A5 camera, is approx. 45 mins, and it involves both static and dynamic states of calibration.

lol, taking the front bumper off is nowhere near as long as that. takes me 20-30 mins, and that's me at home with jack stands, doing myself. a Skoda workshop with all the equipment/tools/people should do it in 10-15 mins tops. dealer is milking it again, quoting 3 hrs!! either way - good thing its all sorted for u and insurance will cover the repain.

The Eibach Prokit springs r lower. If u have standard suspension - it will lower the car 35mm. If u have DCC suspension - it will drop the car 25mm. Cars with DCC r already 10mm lower than standard, so the drop is less with Eibachs. I'm not sure how much lower it will drop with Sportline non-DCC or Sportline with DCC.

The swaybar for the MK7 Golf GTi will fit the non-AWD Superb. Likewise, swaybar for the mk7 Golf R will fit the AWD Superb. Hence there r plenty of choices out there. Do ur research. Search on this forum - there is a discussion topic with pages n pages of info. A Superb Sportline with DCC won't have stiffer swaybars. I too had a Whiteline ARB on my previous car, a mk2 Octavia RS. There is a Whiteline ARB that works with the mk3 Superb. I fitted a Hardrace 24mm rear swaybar in mine. I have factory DCC shocks and Eibach springs. Great mod they r, swaybars.

Love the wheels!! Also like the chrome touch across the rear

Hahahaha....thanks. Ur gonna hate this one though - a bit too far some, oh heck, most would say, but I can't have enough badging to remind me of wat model Skoda I have!!! Hahahaha

lol.....mine is a frankenstein version - i've got a pre-facelift and i removed (a few years ago) the original lettering and improvised with my own spaced lettering badging with "S U P E R B" front & back in fact not to everyone's taste, i know.

@GregorSamsa- the heated wing mirrors on my Superb MY17 does a good job of clearing frost. Given u mentioned ur seat memory module is not working - it is likely to affect the heating functionality. The wing memory position is stored/managed by the seat memory controller. Maybe the heating is somehow related.... @Berisford- u don't need rear window demister on to use the heated wing mirrors.

2015 to 2017 gets the MIB2 unit. 1st pic 2018 to 2020 gets the MIB2.5 unit. 2nd pic. 2021 onwards gets MIB3 units. U can upgrade from MIB2 to MIB2.5. Many have done it. But u'll need to also change the unit in the glovebox. If u do upgrade to the MIB2.5 unit, then this opens the door for u to upgrade to a digital/virtual cluster.

lol, all good. but i'm not sure, maybe, though i highly doubt u'll b able to spray it with a nozzle of some sort. if u have access to a car lift/hoist, u might b able to get a better view to see if it would be possible at all.

yeah.....nah! to get to the front swaybar clamps, u need to drop the sub-frame - no thanks!!!

U missed the bit where I said "pic below shows endlink at its minimum length, prior to adjustment" From the numerous forums and research I've read - they all mention, and explain why there is preload after the car is lowered. And I also saw it for myself - when I had the old endlinks removed and the car was on the ground, I could see swaybar's normal position, which was far off from the factory endlink's bottom point. This was because of the shorter Eibach springs Yes, u can push/pivot the swaybar upwards, but it requires a lot of force and the swaybar doesn't stay in that position, instead it rebounds back to its original position - as is expected normal behaviour for a swaybar. Try it for urself. This tension/resistance is the pre-load everyone refers to. Again, as I said before - it's not critical to do, and the factory endlinks will put up with "shortfall". I did it cause I wanted to.

No, the new ones r longer. No, it doesn't affect DCC behaviour. Lowering means shorter springs, increasing the distance of the endlink mount points between the strut and swaybar. Hence it (endlink length) increases by the amount dropped/lowered. DCC is not affected, but rather it affects the turn in, steering feel and front stabilisation. The longer length endlinks eliminates the swaybar preload, caused by the shorter springs. Similar to the rear, but in that case u use shorter endlinks, which I've already done a while ago now.

its a slow & steady, never ending evolution for Gandalf

over the weekend i installed upgraded/longer front endlinks. with the car lowered 20mm, the endlinks needed to be 20mm longer, to compensate for the drop, in order for the front swaybar to continue to work efficiently with no pre-load. these Whiteline (KLC167A) endlinks r adjustable ones, so it can b precisely adjusted to the required length. i was meant to do this a long time ago, but given its not critical to do, i was in no rush. not critical because the car was only lowered 20mm, which the factory endlinks can handle, for the most part. anything more than 40mm drop, then it is highly recommended, aka a must! factory endlinks r 340mm. adjusted whiteline endlinks to 360mm. (pic below shows endlink at its minimum length, prior to adjustment) installing it was tedious, as i had to remove the front bumper and front wheel arch liners, in order for me to be able to make the endlink adjustments with the suspension loaded, i.e. car on the ground. with my car lowered and the front splitter, there was no way i could squeeze between 110mm of ground clearance to access the endlinks!! even with wheels at full lock. so come off they had to.