JR RS

I have no idea - the car was left with the Skoda Service centre for its 45k km service, and while it was there, they replaced the battery.

Use erWin to get a complete list of PR-codes. U get a 6-8 pg report based on the vehicle's VIN. Looks like this....

Sorry, I don't get that - use what?

It definitely does - "1D7 - Trailer Hitch Preparation". See screenshot of my car's specific build codes below. Even though I didn't specify for factory towbar, Oz bound mk3 Superbs come with Trailer Hitch Preparation as standard. Nonetheless, others have stated, as u have too, that the trailer hitch harness from the BCM is unlikely to have an intermediate connector. That picture/location is the C-pillar directly behind the rear seats. I have a hatch/liftback. Yes, I have a multimeter, just in case. I'm just going to go with Option 3 - I found a suitable path from the fuse dashboard, up the A-pillar, under the roof liner, front to back, and down into the C-pillar. From there, it's an easy run behind the boot trim, and into the area behind the bumper, where the TPMS module will b located. I'll piggyback of SC44 (Trailer device) fuse, which already has a 15A fuse in place.

was doing some more digging around my car boot and interior, and i've come across these plugs below, found behind the left side C-pillar. does anyone know which one is the towbar electrics? i'm assuming/hoping the black connector is, and if so, then i can tap into, as per option 2 above. @XaGiCo had suggested in his TPMS write up that SC44 was a possible alternate option to power the TPMS module. it will also mean i don't have to run a power wire all the way to the front fuse board.

Was not the case for me when I had my battery replaced, earlier this year, under warranty. All settings remained, including the seat memory.

All good @bak I found some good info on the Ross-Tech forums, as well some help from messaging some Briskoda members I've been told that CANBUS wires are easily spotted using wire colors. Orange/gray for CAN-H and orange/brown for CAN-L in case of CAN Extended. Below is the pin assignments of the blindspot radar connectors:- Master J1086 right - connector T8bs 3 - CAN high to pin 19 on BCM plug B (white) 4 - CAN low to pin 18 on BCM plug B (white) 5 - GND 6 - to Slave 6 7 - to Slave 7 8 - +12V, terminal 15a Slave J1087 left - connector T8br 3 - lamp mirror right K304 4 - lamp mirror left K303 5 - GND 6 - from Master 6 7 - from Master 7 8 - +12V, terminal 15a I also found this handy diagram on the Russian forum:- So I've got CANBUS pins all figured out. I'll be tapping into the Master Radar unit. Now I'm just doing research on the best way to power the TPMS module. it requires constant power, not switched (ignition) power. the blindspot radars do have a power source, but its unfortunately switched. so no good for the TPMS module. I have 3 options for power:- 1. Easiest - source from the 12v cig lighter in the boot. this is a constant power source. 2. unknown - source power from the trailer electrics. Problem is my car doesn't come with a tow bar fitted, but i hear our cars come with "tow bar preparation (electrics)" in place. I also noticed in my car's fuse board, location 44 has a 15 amp fuse in it already. i just don't know if I'll find any actual tow bar electrics behind the bumper? 3. Hardest, but ideal - source power from the Fuse board under the dash, specifically piggyback from Fuse Location 7. However this requires running a wire, from under the dashboard, under the B and C trims, under the boot trim, and down to the chassis behind the rear bumper. need to do some more research........

Hey @bak- thanks for sharing that. However, just to b clear, I'm not looking to retrofit BSD system. My car came with it from factory. I'm going to retrofit Direct TPMS. To do this, I need to tap into the existing BSD radar to get a connection to CANBUS High and Low. I've read XAGICO's write-up on the TPMS retrofit, a number of times. However he's connected it up differently with the Golf 7 wiring - he ran wires from the canbus gateway at the front, through the sides and into the rear. I don't want to do that. A Kodiaq member has tapped into the BSD for the CANBUS connections. I'm looking to do the same. See blue arrow in pic below. The BSD connector has 6 wires. I'm trying to figure out which one/pin is CANBUS High and CANBUS Low. I'll source power for the TPMS from the boot 12v source.

Specifically 5Q0907685 / 5Q0907686? also known as the "Blindspot Radars". I need to tap into the CANBUS High and CANBUS Low pins, so i can connect a TPMS (direct) controller module that i'm looking to retrofit. any help would b much appreciated.

Specifically 5Q0907685 / 5Q0907686? also known as the "Blindspot Radars". I need to tap into the CANBUS High and CANBUS Low pins, so i can connect a TPMS (direct) controller module that i'm looking to retrofit. any help would b much appreciated.

No such issues when using Google Maps through Android Auto.

That doesn't happen with the Columbus unit in mine (MY17). RVC comes on without any delays, Bluetooth is fairly quick to connect. The menu's take a good 30 secs or so before they're available.

U can't remove component protection using ObdEleven or VCDS.

i've done it myself. u can read all about it here.

The few times I've used it - it's been good, nice clean finish. Mine is MY17.

I don't know the setup with the facelift versions, but with pre-FL, the strips only light up with the SLA type headlights. There r two types of Xenon headlights. Version A and Version B (SLA type). The strips by default don't light up with DRLs. Only with headlights on. But this can b coded so they work with DRLs and side lights, which is wat I did with mine. Also, they don't light up as bright as the DRL at full power. They have a max brightness equivalent to the dimmed DRL. With the facelift, it's got a completely different headlight setup, hence vastly different behaviour.

Assuming you've got Xenon headlights -

It can be retrofitted to the rear doors. I did it a while ago now.

I looked everywhere - no luck finding it. So I improvised with a flexible Chrome trim/strip from AliExpress. I'm happy with it.

Got a few here n there.....

Was 249€ when I bought one 2 yrs ago from Superskoda. About 2 months ago, they reduced it to 150€!! Would b even cheaper now with the current black Friday 20% off sale!!!

+1 for @Haystack1 I did the same - paid for an hour use of eRwin and got the full vehicle specification list (which the others don't give u) and downloaded a whole heap of workshop manuals for use when needed.

I got (from AliExpress too) the Skoda logo version for mine.....

Yes, it needs to b "coded in" too. Can b done with vcds or obdeleven.

The side lower grille ones r easy to do as they can b easily pulled off the bumper and the chrome bit unclipped from behind. The centre lower grille is unfortunately a bumper off job as the only way to access the clips holding the chrome is from the inside. Which is wat I did. Likewise with the top centre grille - bumper off job, however some have said it's "possible" to remove the grille without removing the bumper. If I were to do it - I'd much rather remove the bumper entirely.