sepulchrave

I was kidding, we need to know which ENGINE it has.

What colour is it?

I can't quite hear it from here but it's probably the gearbox because the driveshafts would click going forwards as well.

What car is it?

That battery voltage is much too low, it should be nearer 12.7V.

If it's grease then ok, I thought it might be sulphate corrosion from battery fumes.

Ideal.

Blimey Charlie, I think you need to clean that mess up with a toothbrush and some alcohol.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/c/646203197

Look at the fusible strip on top of the battery for signs of damage, you may have the dreaded but quite common cracked fuse.

You could only shim the mounts if you also trimmed the bushes. The beam is a bendy torsion bar but one of the radius arms may well have been bent, I don't see how you could know what was what unless you tried to fit a new beam, this would highlight any problem with the mounts because it would be reluctant to fit.

My reading is that the total misalignment is actually 10mm, and that's way out, I sense that the car may have been spun and slammed into a kerb at the back end. I'm not saying the beam mounts aren't bent but straightening them out would mean jigging the shell whereas the OP can replace the beam easily himself. I would not accept the situation and do nothing as xman suggests.

It's a low compression petrol engine, you could probably hand crank it. The problem is the voltage, not the current, the cars electronics hate low voltage, the starter motor doesn't care, the starter would still turn with 6V, it would just be very slow.

You'll have to replace the beam axle, it's obviously been bent somehow.

11.9V isn't on the way out, it's completely knackered! https://www.puretyre.co.uk/car-battery-specification-chart/ A very handy little chart, this plus a tape measure should answer your question.

The screw doesn't really matter, it's for convenience essentially, the wheel is what clamps the disc in place.

I can only guess that the fault code is spurious, caused by a brief power spike or interruption scrambling the coding, check the coding using the engine module in VCDS, for example my old 1.4 16V used to occasionally recode itself as a 1.4 8V and I'd have to recode it manually back to 0071.

Don't forget you have two seatbelt pre-tensioners as well, these are also controlled by that ECU.

Christ on a bike, it's MUCH easier to just remove the centre console, you can then undo the nuts holding the ECU to the trans tunnel with a 10mm spanner.

The centre console itself.

That's an electronic gauge, no idea what fitting that has, it should say in the bumpf that came with it.

I would call that a T piece and it will work just fine as long as you get the correct 1/8 NPT capillary fitting and a blanking plug.

Airbag ECU is right at the front of the centre console tucked under the dash. Airbag faults often set a permanent flag that cannot be cleared so you may need another ECU.

Yup.

You're a bit new to this, but on the forum we've seen it all a hundred times before. Whatever floats your boat, like I said, it won't last very long.