sepulchrave

Since it has an ECU it will definitely have a CEL to indicate stored fault codes. Remove the instrument cluster and open it up to see if the light has been blanked off or tampered with.

Actuator stop screw may have come undone and no longer be limiting boost.

Possible immobilizer issue I would suggest, have you tried different keys?

I honestly don't understand how you guys make your brakes last so long, I reckon I get 20k out of a set of front pads and 40k from the rears and the discs, I have to replace the rear discs due to corrosion rather than wear and always do the pads at the same time even though they aren't really worn. I drive my car enthusiastically but I don't really thrash it, equally I don't fanny about in it, I leave that to little old ladies who aren't interested in cars. I recently upgraded the front brakes with EBC pads and MTEC drilled and grooved discs and the rears with Brembo Max grooved discs with standard Febi pads and I have to careful not to break my nose on the windscreen now!

All you have to do is disconnect it and see if it runs better, then you can replace it if necessary.

It's more likely to be the MAF unless you've already replaced it.

The 8V BMM engine has a DPF. The 16V BKD and AZV do not. None of them will fit and the coding to make the electronics work would be nigh on impossible.

In a word, no. I assume it's a 2.0 BKD type PD engine fitted with a DPF, completely different electronics I'm afraid.

There's usually a dipstick on most slush boxes, probably yellow and hidden down low somewhere.

At the very least check the level is correct, slush boxes are very sensitive to oil level.

Double post.

Your new turbo has failed.

The leak can really only be coming from the hatchback seal.

You were given incorrect information, it can't be done using VCDS. Sorry.

You can't turn it off using VCDS, you can turn it off by fitting normal bulbs back into your number plate lights. The only people interested in your number plate visibility are the uniformed idiots chauffeuring ANPR camera cars around.

It's a case of re-aligning the latch, the cable isn't adjustable.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305304646141?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Kz6ruQlnQTe&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_BlMq7ebT3O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY A pair of these will be perfect for half the cost.

Blimey, tighter than two coats of paint! Ok, I agree that, because it's the rear, pretty much any uprated gas shocks should be alright, I've used KYB in the past with good results, they can often be found very cheaply on eBay.

Any lights on the dash?

A tiny leak is sufficient to cause the misting you describe, a simple pressure test will reveal whether the system is leaking or not.

https://www.ap-sportsuspensions.com/shop/_/-/-/61A80057 Hardly excessively priced!

To be perfectly honest it sounds like your heater matrix may have sprung a leak, does it smell faintly of coolant inside the car? Have you checked the coolant level when the engine is cold?

There is absolutely no chance that VAG will ever admit there's any issue with the chain drive on that engine, it would open them up to a recall and another class action lawsuit. You say the chain isn't noisy yet you think it should be replaced? Since there's no recall and the chain isn't noisy then if you want it replaced you'll have to pay a garage full price to do the work. Lifetime means 10 years or 100k miles so I would change the chain and tensioners on that basis, most chain driven engines from most manufacturers are like this, my brother has just had the whole lot changed on his Citroen DS3 which is fitted with the ghastly Prince engine, that sounded like a bucketful of steel washers in a tumble dryer on startup! If you want peace of mind it's probably best to stop reading anecdotal rubbish on the internet.

Yes you need a special tool, no, the garage won't rebuild the calipers, they'll only replace them with new ones.

I would replace the cooler as well, they make a horrible mess when they fail.