sepulchrave

I've done it many times, the smart move is to cut the lead off the old sensor and to use a conventional deep 22mm socket to remove it but to only use the special slotted socket to refit the new one.

Throw them in the bin, they're completely worn out, they've lasted pretty well for a platinum plug but they've been in there about five years by the look of it!

What Grammar? 😄

The OE springs are excessively tempered making them fragile, also potholes.

Yes, swapping engines is easy if you have: Loads of experience. Loads of tools. Loads of indoor space. A four post lift. An engine crane. A complete donor car with the engine and gearbox, wiring loom, exhaust etc. all intact. Knock yourself out if you can tick all those boxes.

Almost certainly needs a new battery if it's the original unit.

Sounds like an injector is sticking open causing the revving and the pressure drop in the fuel rail, these engines eat injectors so I'd replace all four if they've never been done before.

The door lock issue is causing the boot issue.

It's to prevent purse snatching at the traffic lights, you have to open a door with a functional microswitch first.

No, it's inside the plenum but cycling the temperature between full cold and full heat will sometimes unstick it, sit in the car after driving home and put the blower on full and twist the knob one way, wait ten seconds then twist it the other way, do this until you can feel it getting better.

Hot air flap stuck on cold, try cycling it back and forth.

There is no possibility that a set of OE plugs would last 80k, pull em out, take a picture and I'll tell you how old they are.

It's not really very important since 50,000 volts has no problems jumping through fresh air, a few bits of dirt aren't going to affect it either. Just blow the holes out if you're worried about it.

Dude, there isn't anything for the 1.2 HTP, seriously. If you wanna dress up the engine bay you'll have to figure it out for yourself. You can lower it and fit bigger wheels.

Forget the engine completely, there are no mods to be done. If you want to drive faster then replace the terrible standard suspension and brakes. Motorsport engineering 101: faster laptimes are down to better handling, brakes and tyres, then a better driver, more engine power comes dead last!

The wiring in the rubber boot between the door and the body is damaged, you must repair it.

English please.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/437831-fabia-vrs-auxdrive-belt-replacement-how-to/?do=findComment&comment=4936037

EPC lamp usually means an emissions problem, you may find that it clears itself now that you've fixed the misfire, try taking the car on a long fast drive on a motorway to clean the cat and probes.

I can understand how irritated people who live in the ULEZ are because it's £12.50 every time they leave their driveway but honestly it's no worse than paying a toll for the rest of us, you just set up an account online and every time you're snapped entering ULEZ the card of your choice is automatically debited so you don't even have to remember, just like the Dartford crossing.

It's only £12.50 to use ULEZ for a 24hr period, you'd have to visit an awful lot to justify changing cars!

Projectors are not really very good, I'd suggest stripping, polishing and treating your existing lenses so that they're crystal clear again and fitting good quality uprated bulbs rather than swapping the entire units. However, I drive so fast that I keep my eyes shut at night so as not to scare myself so feel free to ignore my barking at the moon!

The 1.6 TDI is famous for eating its injectors so if they've never been replaced then replacing all four would probably solve the problem, however there's no imperative to do so until the symptoms become intolerable. Your choice really.

What is the issue, is it theoretical or does the car have symptoms?

That depends entirely on how gravity affects your right foot...