sepulchrave

Just check DC volts across the battery before and after starting the engine, you should get 12.7V from a healthy battery before starting the engine and something around 14.4V with the engine running. To check rectification test for the presence of any AC voltage when running. Post results here.

FYP.

En anglais sil vous plait.

Yes, but you need a multimeter.

If you drive like Miss Daisy then you won't have any trouble, but if you ever descend a very steep hill or drive the car hard then you will experience brake fade due to steam bubbles forming in the calipers as the fluid temperature exceeds 100 °C Brake fluid needs changing occasionally.

It's not crucial Crucian, but it's sill, as in window sill, inner sill etc.

Jetex will have gone to a lot of trouble making sure the exhaust system meets the noise regs while providing the maximum performance increase. There is no chance whatsoever that deleting either or both of the boxes will pass the 74db MOT noise standard. Don't bother, you'll just create an illegal plod magnet which will fail the next MOT and annoy all your neighbours as well.

Yes they are.

It's happened to me once, the convenience module occasionally gets confused and thinks it's in a LHD car, usually it's due to random voltage fluctuations so it's worth charging the battery if you've been doing lots of short journeys.

That's the oil pressure sensor, simply replace it.

That's because you don't know what you're doing, you know what you want but you don't know how to get there.

You'd need to install Windows and use bootcamp on your Mac to run VCDS.

If it's running well then there's no need to adapt it.

If your crank shells were toast you'd hear the rumble but you can check by removing the sump and one of the main bearing caps to visually inspect the half shell. Although I'd expect the sump to be full of glitter.

God knows, it's a sealed system, so unless there's been contamination the fluid should be just fine.

The PAS being disabled suggests low voltage, check the battery voltage before and after starting the car.

This makes no sense, if you really had no oil pressure on tickover then the engine would have self-destructed long ago, there must be a flow restriction somewhere upstream of the pressure sensor tap.

I thought there were two oil pressure sensors, if so then you've changed out the good one for a new one.

You can't take chances with the plugs on a twin charger, at the very least remove and inspect them, then replace if necessary with an Iridium set. If any plugs are toast then you'll probably have damaged the corresponding coil pack. If you can't afford to service your car properly then sell it or it'll really cost you!

Yes, you're missing the fault codes, you need to clear them and adapt the new actuator.

I assumed it was a VRS according to his profile...

Have you checked the cam timing? If it's out it won't start and it will throw the cam sensor code, if it's out then check that the belt isn't damaged, you're looking for any missing teeth on the belt.

First repair the broken wire to the alternator, it's at the root of most, if not all of the problems. It's been covered a thousand times before, it breaks down by the gearbox, do a search.

My only comment is that the insulation is a little thin for the length and current it'll be carrying, but I guess cost is a factor so go with what you've got.

It'll be more like 12mm in diameter tbh, no idea how people are coming up with such enormous numbers, divide 35 by pi then take the square root to get the radius if it were solid copper.