sepulchrave

I used to have this problem with my 1.4, it was caused by the ECU not waking up from its slumber unless it was actually started, whereupon I could switch the ignition off and back on again and then connect the scanner.

Yes, always, piston rings don't seal well until they've some pressure behind them or some oil to stop the air getting by even in a brand new engine. The fact that all three cylinders reacted exactly the same, picking up 50 psi proves the bottom end is healthy.

Yes, those pressures are much too low, the head needs refurbishment. I may have told you this a while ago...

Dry spell 😂

Obviously it's your decision but I wouldn't do anything with it at the moment, just get a mate to help you tow it away from the garage back to your place for now. The gearbox that's in it may be repairable if you talk to the guys on this forum nicely.

You can forget all about that right now, the cambelt would have to snap or strip teeth and that's completely unheard of! Stick it in gear with the handbrake off.

If it's stuck in neutral what's to stop you towing it home?

That's because a grand is cheap for a working DSG gearbox!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/276235350847?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=daBZgF-uQCS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=_BlMq7ebT3O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY You're really not trying very hard are you!

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18447/P2015/008213

A good long run will charge the battery if it's not knackered which should cure all the cars ills.

Do both, then try tightening them slightly before loosening to break adhesion in the thread, if it's stiff, work it back and forth with some more WD. You can test the glowplugs using a multimeter set to the Ohms scale, that way you'll only replace the ones that don't work.

Suit yourself.

I didn't say it wasn't possible, I said it was very EXPENSIVE, such an engine could cost 10,000 euro quite easily. Group A rules are very strict but the engine internals are all forged, special clutches and flywheels and gearboxes with LSD are allowed and such an engine would turn at least 8000 RPM to make 160 bhp. Chucking a pair of fast road cams in a standard engine with a silly air filter and a remap will NOT give you a 40% increase, so no, I don't believe the ABT figure. @fabdavravclaimed a 20% increase from a silly air filter and some magic plugs and leads! Crazy.

I'm not calling anyone a liar, I'm giving anyone interested an honest opinion based on first-hand experience because I'm not selling anything and have no vested interest. I can tell you that changing to a 268 profile fast road cam together with the necessary fuel and ignition optimisation will net you a maximum 15% increase in power, mostly due to the raised RPM ceiling. You're obviously not interested in learning anything so I'm not expecting you to listen, the post was for others who come here. A Honda S2000 makes 220 bhp from a 2.0 engine, that's 110 bhp per litre, so an AUB in the same state of tune would make 154 bhp at 8000 RPM if it had enough inlet valve area and a strong enough bottom end. Unfortunately it has none of those assets and no VTEC to stop it stalling and make it idle properly. Dave you live in a complete fantasy world.

I can assure you that naturally aspirated car engines making 100 bhp per litre are rare and use variable cam timing strategies and/or variable volume intakes to make them tractable at lower RPM due to the very high state of tune, most of them make peak power at close to 8000 rpm, they use ITB's and are VERY expensive to build due to needing completely forged internals. I've personally seen a 1.6 litre Peugeot TU5JP4 making over 200bhp on an engine Dyno at 8800 rpm, however such an engine would be unusable in a road car since it would stall at every red traffic light. We're talking about engines from Porsche, Honda, Ferrari, BMW etc. I repeat, there is no way to get a lowly AUB lump to such a state of tune without going all in on head mods, cams, ITB's and a custom exhaust manifold and system, you'd also need forged Conrods and pistons since the stock items would not last long at 7500 rpm, which is what you'll need to be spinning to make 150 bhp. Put crudely, a 50% increase in power requires the engine to pump 50% more air, so that 1.4 will need to pump like a 2.1. This isn't rocket science but it is expensive and tuning companies tend to exaggerate to make sales.

Experience. 268 cams will not take you to 100 bhp per litre, a racier profile is needed.

That ABT spec. never made 140 bhp but the porting and exhaust should get you to a genuine 150 bhp.

It doesn't really matter because it's not a turbo or a diesel, buy cheap and change it often in a high mileage petrol engine for best results.

If it ain't broken, don't fix it. I've seen glitter like that before, it'll be from the main bearings, don't worry about it until you can hear it or the oil pressure light comes on.

The ABS kicking in like you describe sounds like you have odd sized tyres fitted, please check every tyre is exactly the same size.

It's a BTS engine with a timing chain. Garages are liars and morons.

Those look like Mark 1 Octavia VRS wheels. 17" is too big for a car driven on B roads, the tyrewall is too shallow, I use 15" wheels for this very reason.

Not on the SEAT, no.

It plugs into the fan so it should be easy to find, just follow the lead back, I did one on a SEAT recently, it was a doddle, in the passenger footwell under the glovebox, the motor itself is twist 'n' lock like a bayonet fitting.