sepulchrave

Tricky, needs some sort of jury rigged filling hose to allow the oil to be put in from above while the car sits level on the ground. More trouble than it's worth really.

If the fill plug is at the front then it'll be slightly overfilled which isn't really a problem.

I had not meant my tongue-in-cheek remarks to be taken so seriously. When I said I don't care, I meant I don't care if you guys change the oil or not since it can't do any harm. In my opinion it's a waste of time, effort and money but if it gives you peace of mind then go right ahead. Just don't make it a recommendation that everyone does it since millions of VW manual gearboxes are in daily use at extreme mileages despite never having had an oil change. The vast majority of cars that get scrapped go to the scrappy with a perfectly serviceable gearbox in them because such periodic maintenance is simply not necessary. In the bad old days of EP80 etc. it was a completely different matter, oil changes were necessary because polymer chain lengths in natural mineral stock were hopeless. Synthetics have engineered molecules and clever additive packs and are a massive leap forwards.

I don't care, it's not like you're going to do any harm unless you mess it up and cross-thread the drain plug but it doesn't make sense and I'm duty bound to point out when things don't make sense in case others read the posts and think that of all the millions of VW's still on the road, theirs is the only one that hasn't had its gearbox oil changed. Anecdotal evidence is only acceptable when the sample size is significant!

This is ritual magic, not science and engineering! Gearbox oil cannot get diluted or contaminated, it doesn't oxidise or get thicker either it just sits there getting lightly splashed about. The level only drops if there's a leak somewhere, usually the the input shaft oil seal if the bearing starts to fail. You guys are just inventing a reality to suit your beliefs, gearbox oil USED to be terrible back in the bad old days before synthetics, it hasn't been like that for a long time which is why VW say lifetime fill.

https://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/car/ignition/glow-plugs/manufacturer/car/skoda/fabia-i-6y2-1999-2008/1-4-tdi-75hp-55kw-04-2003-03-2008/10791_315376

Modern synthetic lubricants do not change like that over time, if your gearbox is getting 'baulky' this could be a sign that the oil level has dropped, simply topping it up will fix the problem unless the synchro rings are worn in which case nothing will replace the missing metal and any improvement will be through the placebo effect.

It's got me stumped as well, has that fuse blown again?

It's not a question of liking you or not, this may come as a surprise both to you and frankly a lot of the other people on here, but here goes: THEY'RE ONLY IN IT FOR THE MONEY! It's a horrible job and no-one is interested in doing it unless they're going to make a decent profit on it. Good luck finding someone to do it on a labour only basis since half of the profit is in the margin on the parts. Car mechanics prioritise profit over anything else, if you don't want to pay much then they don't want the job. Ok?

What about the front scuttle drains?

The answer is incredibly simple, just buy the same sized tyres you bought last time!

They won't fit, different dimensions completely.

It is completely normal for the drivers side camber to be more negative than the passenger side because that spring has taken a set and is slightly shorter.

DMF failing.

The pulley is designed to fail if the compressor seizes so this isn't as simple as you suggest!

Just clean it up before going for MOT, no need to make a mountain out of a molehill. You may just have overfilled the joint with grease, also you need a special tool for OE clips which is expensive to buy.

Are you sure the bulb doesn't just pull out of the plastic holder?

I thought projector lamps used a shutter to alter the beam pattern so they only have one bulb fitted. It's possible that the solenoid that operates the shutter has packed up.

I don't really see a proper question. Therefore: Is the horrible noise the camchain? Yes. Have I bought the correct parts? Yes. My mates dad is gonna fit it for £300. Ok.

My advice to you is replace the MAF, clear all the codes and see what comes back after a test drive.

Changing gearbox oil is completely unnecessary. However since you seem 'emotionally' determined there is a threaded plug on the side of the gearbox which serves both as a filling point as well as a level guide, basically you put oil in until it comes back out, then replace the plug. Topping up is all you need to do since the oil that is already in it will be perfectly usable. It's been mentioned on here so many times it's tedious but gearbox oil does not 'age' and 'go off' because it's in a sealed environment inside the gearbox, it doesn't get pumped, hot or contaminated, it just splashes about a bit, any fine metallic particles simply sink to the bottom where they remain undisturbed in perpetuity. Old gearbox oil is just as effective a lubricant as new gearbox oil.

Coolant temperature sensor. It's how the ECU knows whether the engine is cold or not.

To test the glowplugs you need to set your meter to Ohms and measure the resistance across the plug with its lead disconnected. It should read a few ohms and not be open circuit. You should replace the CTS if it hasn't already been done.

The switches are known to give trouble after ten years or so.

Yeah, it's a silly washable air filter, luckily you can refit a standard paper one which saves buggering about getting dirty cleaning and oiling that one! Jetex exhausts are ok, so as long as it's not too loud then you'll be fine.