sepulchrave

No, it won't be the sensor AND the bearing, it's more likely to be the wiring or the sensor, you can test both without replacing anything.

One of the wires in the rubber boot between the body and the hatch may have broken.

Only the six speed VRS has a dual mass flywheel, everything else is single AFAIK.

You won't get a fault code from a failing ECT sensor until the output actually falls outside a plausible range.

Brembo discs are fine, I've been using them for years with no problems. I like Pagid pads but just don't buy cheap ones.

Entirely possible and the fault code is a coincidental and unrelated red herring.

Then it has no transmission control module so it's probably a coding error.

You should remove whatever you need to gain adequate access, probably both the items you mention. I think you might benefit from using a mirror and a torch because it will still be hidden under the thermostat housing unless you remove the housing itself. You'll need to drain the coolant into a clean washing up bowl so you can pour it back in again. As @J.R.says there is a plastic C clip holding the sensor in place but you don't have to remove the plug itself until the sensor is swinging freely from the lead which will make it much easier to see how to remove the plug and will also stop you dropping it somewhere inaccessible.

Is your VRS an automatic then?

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510003-replacing-g62-temp-sensor-cbzb-12-tsi/?do=findComment&comment=5725012

Just unplug the CTS and see if it starts and runs ok.

I think he means blank code read, as in no fault codes. Yes, it's expensive and difficult I'm afraid.

If it's a 1.2 6V engine then it'll be burnt exhaust valves and will show compression loss across all three cylinders but one will be worse than the others.

I dunno, but you must have!

I doubt it, I think you're worrying too much and definitely overthinking things. The absence of oil pressure doesn't empty the system, the tappets stay full apart from the two or four that are under valve spring tension and the tensioner piston simply relaxes until oil pressure is restored, whereupon, like any hydraulic system, that pressure is transferred almost immediately throughout the entire system.

You've changed part of the gear shift mechanism so surely it's worth resetting the linkage to see if that fixes it, it sounds like the linkage is not throwing quite far enough in the horizontal plane to pick up reverse properly.

Have you correctly reset the linkage?

My bad, it's a Mark 2, ignore what I said.

You need a torque limited remap.

This is not an issue, simply start the engine and let it idle for a few seconds.

It isn't tested, it's formulated using an additive pack which is mixed with the base spirit before being shipped.

Don't ask an enthusiast, you'll get an idiotic answer and it won't sell. The only way to get some idea is probably to look at completed sales on eBay for VRS's and add a premium for the SE nonsense.

Dual-mass flywheels are a newish answer to an old problem, diesels vibrate worse than petrols because they have much stronger power strokes at low RPM, this is due to the higher compression ratio. Diesels also need stronger, and therefore heavier cranks, rods and pistons due to these very high pressures. In the old days diesel flywheels were huge to help absorb the vibrations, dual-mass flywheels were created to allow the use of a much lighter assembly which dramatically reduces parasitic power losses and inertia whilst controlling vibration, the result is a more powerful and fuel efficient engine that revs much more freely. No-one needs a car that lasts forever because the tinworm will claim their prize long before it ever becomes relevant, fit an SMF when building a high power tuned engine, otherwise just don't do it.

Try using 99 octane fuel and see if it improves, also check your spark plugs.

On a standard engine no benefits, only downsides.