sepulchrave

You need to have the engine under load, you're looking for the MAP output in bar, MAF is different and will only give you an actual value. You really need a vacuum gauge to measure leak down realistically.

Replace the PAS pump.

You can log boost in VCDS, compare requested with actual, that dry soot is unburned fuel. Check for a vacuum leak in case the actuator is not working correctly.

I suspect the turbo itself since you have no boost leaks, clearly there isn't enough air to go with all that fuel, hence the black smoke. There's no way it's the MAP or FTS causing such a dramatic loss of power.

Hang on, I didn't tell you to dump the missus! ...although it's pretty obvious to me why you seem to spend every waking minute out in the garage fixing stuff that ain't broke... No 'people' skills indeed, you're like an open book mate!

The hatchback and estate rear doors are completely different, hatchback is curved at the base of the C pillar, estate is not. They look so utterly different that I'm uncertain how you can be confused between them unless you're visually impaired?

...or stop doing stuff that doesn't really need doing, perfect is the enemy of good, these cars weren't perfect when they left the factory, replacing every wearing part on a car will not prevent it from rotting out!

So buy pads with indicators and just cut the wire off if you don't need it. No biggy.

ARB bushes can creak as well.

They're vague because they want to keep all your munny and they don't want to fix the car, sorry.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16683/P0299/000665 http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18995/P2563/009571 These codes are not related to DPF issues, more like a turbo actuator fault which is also fairly common on these engines. Either throw it back at the dealer or get them to fix it.

It looks like it's part of the spoiler, not the door, so you need to remove the spoiler.

On turbopetrol engines a better intercooler will increase torque and power irrespective of "Stage" because it allows more ignition advance and more fuel to be injected due to the lower charge temperatures. A turbodiesel can't do the same trick because it doesn't have a closed loop wideband lambda system or knock sensors to provide data for the dynamic map.

I think they're fobbing you off precisely because you're not an idiot. Most mechanics are inherently lazy, it's in their nature to expect to be paid whether they fix anything or not, they don't fancy anything that sounds like a big job because most of them aren't any good.

I'm afraid you'll have to do it because the bloody garage couldn't be bothered.

It doesn't sound anything like a bottom end noise, get the biggest screwdriver you have, put the tip against the cambox and your ear to the handle, then listen in different places to see if the sound gets louder or quieter until you've narrowed down the location.

The strut towers and the bulkhead are not likely to be out of place.

The front end is obviously bent somewhere, suggest you get your tape measure out and start writing some numbers down because we'll never be able to figure it out over the interwebs!

There are usually two or three, there can be one before the turbo, one before the DPF and one after the DPF, there is generally only one Lambda sensor before the DPF though.

How could they tell from just an email? I get that they're not interested in fixing your car but why not just say so!

EGT sensor is a thermocouple for measuring temperature, Lambda sensor is for measuring oxygen content in a gas, two totally different things.

They're not slider pins and they're in a rubber bushing so they can't wear out, the pads are physically retained by the rigid caliper carrier so there is no force on the calipers themselves, they simply provide the clamping force and the bushed pins prevent the caliper moving as the wheel bounces about. I've always had very good results with Brembo but the quality may have deteriorated with so much crap being made in China from recycled steel, discs should be nodular cast iron, not cast steel.

PAS pump is a brushless AC motor so it relies upon chopper circuitry to provide the necessary square wave signal to drive the motor, it is this circuitry that usually starts to fail rather than the motor itself, often due to internal condensation build up due to imperfect sealing.

You don't even need to change the plugs, at 9k they'll still be like new, it's physical wear, not age that dictates changing them.

This isn't possible any more since the plug electrode is protected by a plastic tube to prevent any such variations. By all means continue with your mediaeval rituals if they bring you comfort but it really isn't necessary any more.