sepulchrave

No, the pump's failed and must be replaced before it'll start again.

You need to use a piston windback tool to push the piston in all the way.

It's either the common rail pump or the fuel rail pressure sensor itself.

It's rusty in a place that doesn't matter, what's under the rubber dust seal is what matters.

Good stuff, stay lucky.

If those are Bosch iridium then you'll be ok, the standard VAG plugs are simply not good enough to survive the twinchargers combustion chamber temperatures.

Number one cylinder is generally the furthest from the gearbox, this is almost universally true irrespective of make and model.

Perfect is the enemy of good.

What can I say, the secondhand market for economy cars has gone bananas, the more MPG the better, so whip out your best economy figures and make sure you mention them in the advert...

HGF, everything else is denial I'm afraid.

I'm sorry but repetition is irritating, we've all told you either is fine just crack on and buy a set, put the daddy pants on and make a decision, you can't go wrong!

There's no adjustment, the spring is either fitted correctly or it isn't.

I'll speak very slowly. They're Both Good Ok. Even you can't **** this up, just buy whichever brand you can get easiest for the best price.

The problem is your two year oil change schedule. Turbodiesels such as yours with a few miles on the clock tend to blow fuel past the piston rings, gradually this dilutes the oil in the sump to the point that it becomes too thin to adequately float the crank bearings and it leaks out around the bearing causing a drop in oil pressure, particularly noticeable when the engine is warmer than normal. Change the oil and the problem should go, BUT you may already have damaged the bearings so it might not work.

You should clean all that pubic hair off the instruments before it goes for a service! It was the plugs that fixed it, not the snake oil.

That used to be the case, these days the plates are coated with Calcium to prevent self-discharge and extend shelf lives almost indefinitely, a brand new battery is fully charged. Your information is obsolete.

I meant what I said and said what I meant.

A VRS has the same front calipers as my tool eater, Lucas calipers for 288mm discs, GSF have given you pads for ATE pattern calipers which won't fit.

That's because you're raving mad, a brand new battery doesn't need charging because it's never been discharged, just fit it and forget about it.

It won't help, brand attachment is one of the mysteries of marketing, as long as it's Iridium it doesn't matter which brand, just buy whichever you can get the easiest.

But, hey, you've minimised that crucial "arch gap" that the idiot babies hate so much, now all it needs is some 18's with rubber bands fitted!

VRS is already lowered as standard so I wouldn't go much more than 25mm, what kills the ride is slamming them and fitting bigger rims, which is exactly what the "all show and no go" brigade want.

The ride on the B12 setup is like the standard VRS but with really good damping, so getting slightly airborne means a no bounce landing, since you have a RARB already you'll be cocking a wheel in no time!

Firm, not crashy, the handling however is completely transformed!

There's a knob gag here somewhere....