sepulchrave

Dude, these cars are so old now a lot of the information you're sweating about was written in latin on wax tablets.

White smoke is usually coolant so check if the coolant level is dropping at all.

Stop reading about it and just replace the turbo, Borg Warner is KKK, Honeywell is Garret, it doesn't matter which.

They're designed to keep bits of gravel from getting trapped under the brake pad, so they're stone guards.

Look, a PD130 will run on a GT1752 without a remap but it won't run well so don't listen to retards. Why on earth would you want to spend an extra £150 on the wrong turbo unless you're going to do it properly with a FMIC conversion, new clutch and fly and yet another remap which will all add up to a lot more money (about £1500 more in fact) together with a load of DIY work just to make the intercooler fit. So just stop overthinking all this and get that car fixed and back on the road before it ends up in the spares and repairs section on eBay.

Stick it up on Moneysupermarket then, right and wrong is for vicars and tarts.

Oh for heavens sake you are SUCH a drama queen, I don't care about right and wrong, just give GOOD advice, simple, clear and understandable. All this endless circumlocution is confusing to those for whom English is not their first language, a load of verbal diarrhoea about recycling and microtransactions is not what we're here for, just do the battery thing and join Reddit for the rest!

No-one I know of will buy a single scrap battery, you need at least 100kg worth before you can cash them in, this is because they're classed as hazardous waste, cannot be easily stored due to COSHH regulations and are expensive to recycle. They'll take them at our local council tip but they certainly won't pay anything. You might get a fiver if you sit outside Waitrose in a dirty sleeping bag holding a sign saying "will eat money for charity". I do generally leave you to cover the battery pros and cons but you have got to stop making stuff up, ALL lead acid batteries get recycled, it's the law, you can't incinerate them or put them in landfill, and eating them isn't really an option, even for someone as mad as you obviously are.

They're not worth anything here either but some of the old bluffers on here are so mean that they'll trap the steam off their own p1ss rather than risk someone else getting it...

I've looked and I think you're being unreasonable. It's not on show and it's protected so it's good enough, the only reason the original panel has topcoat there is because of the way it got painted, if you were to open up other cavity's such as under the bonnet bracing you'd find the topcoat was patchy at best but it would still be protected properly. There's no reason to have topcoat on internal spaces that are sheltered from the weather. I agree that the other minor repair is substandard however.

There's no way you can reasonably expect the interior of a part to be painted like it was at the factory when it was bare steel with no other parts or glass fitted, there's no way to duplicate that and it's completely unnecessary since they're standing behind the repair anyway.

Heatsoak in a diesel reduces torque, in a turbo petrol it can lead to detonation, diesels like hot air, petrols hate it.

They're all the same dude, about 165 BHP, the numbers are marketing drivel, it could be stage 7 for all I care, if you're on the standard turbo then there are two maps available, torque limited for high mileage clutches or the full monty. Torque fella, this is NOT a petrol engine, big intercoolers won't make moar powah without bigger turbos!

No, it just heatsoaks quicker.

Just stick with standard if you don't want to remap it again.

It's probably fair to assume it did work or the OP would have been back for further suggestions. I don't think VAG made several USB to media port cables so stick with the VAG part listed here and as long as you have a separate media port it should work ok.

You can dismantle it but you can't rebuild it because the block cannot be rebored due to the cast-in steel dry liners.

Diesels are clattery when cold, they should quieten down when hot.

It's never too soon for the angle grinder, likewise when replacing discs if that silly countersunk screw is seized then just hit the disc really hard to snap the head off it, don't waste time fannying about, there's plenty of time once you're snug in your wooden suit...

The trim is separate from the switches, different part numbers. This looks the same: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184448797725?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Ncr4p3dQQTq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=_BlMq7ebT3O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE Or this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404127202950?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Ran3mpIMQu2&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=_BlMq7ebT3O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE

It isn't necessarily the sensor itself that's faulty, rather that the sensor is telling you there's a fault: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16490/P0106/000262 The sensors themselves very rarely give trouble.

A crash of Fabias...

It sounds like the starter motor is weak.

The reason the seals have failed is because the bushes are worn, so unless you're planning on a complete rebuild and rebalance then you'll be better off buying a new CHRA assembly which will already be balanced correctly.

There's nothing wrong with the sensor, that code is telling you the timing has slipped. You ran it for too long with a cooling system problem, now you've killed it I'm afraid.