sepulchrave

Yes, the rear isn't adjustable for toe, but they'll take your money anyway...

The wheel bearing failure means the ABS sensor can no longer read the reluctor ring properly, fix the bearing and the light show should go.

It sounds like you have a bad earth to the engine or ECU. Check the earth straps.

Brake servo uses vacuum not coolant!

There is no possibility that a twenty-year old lambda probe will be providing accurate data to the ECU, replace it, I did mine recently and it was only £45 for a NOS genuine item. Make sure you clear codes after fitting to clear the dynamic map and take it for a half hour thrash to rewrite the map before retest.

The rattle is caused by the ancient tappets, nothing to worry about.

So what you're saying in essence is: "Doctor you say my leg really painful because it's broken, can't you just paralyze the nerves so I don't feel it any more?"

You're mad. 2.0 common rail engine has far greater power potential because it's a sixteen valve, it's only unreliable when it's not properly serviced and I would guess the RAC serviced it religiously so all you need to do is keep it up. Simply getting the existing 2.0 engine remapped will easily give you the power and torque you seek. All at a tiny fraction of the price and effort.

All I'll say is that 38k is too few miles, DO NOT pay a premium for low mileage, history and condition are FAR more important!

I thought the Scout came with the 1.2 TSI or the 1.6 TDI?

Just put a spare can full of petrol in it in case you've run out!

You don't need to jack the car up, just loosen the sump plug, slide the drain pan under and remove the loose plug and leave it to drain, then replace the plug and move the pan under the filter, remove that and drop it in the pan, clean up, fit new filter hand-tight and refill with fresh oil. I did mine last weekend and mine is lowered 30mm, still did it without a jack!

Nothing to worry about, you're just opening a fifth bleed nipple after doing the four for the brakes. That's it.

They affect the idle speed and can cause stalling because they communicate directly with the ECU.

Clutch or brake pedal switch?

Plus another fiver for a proper disc as opposed to the Fisher Price crap it came with...

No, absolutely not.

I would expect the biting point to be low with a brand new clutch, that's normal. Have you checked the gearbox oil level?

There isn't anything under the car like you describe so unless you can pinpoint where the sound is coming from then there's not much to be done.

It could be the fuel pump in the tank, try using your ears to pinpoint where the noise is coming from.

VW ones and recently too, insanely tight, also REALLY unsafe on a petrol car compared to diesel, which is what I had to deal with due to a failed lift pump. Don't try and remove it unless you're certain the pump's failed and DO NOT try and test it unless the pump is completely removed and bench tested, one spark and the petrol fumes will ignite leading to a fatal explosion. Hence my advice about having the correct tool.

If you know where the leak is you can fix it without removing the pipe using epoxy and a pipe clip, epoxy will handle the pressure and temperature easily and the clip will prevent it ever coming off.

I think he means the lock ring on the fuel tank under the back seat, the clue is the video posted above! No, there's no hack, the lock ring is incredibly tight and even if you get it off you won't get it back on again without the correct tooling. If you don't have the right tools you can't work on cars!

By all means, if you can live with the high bite then just leave it alone. It's not adjustable by the way, hydraulic systems never are.

I don't think so, and it may get better as one face of the friction plate wears slightly.