sepulchrave

Underseal simply locks any existing rust and moisture in place, it should only be used on rust free areas which lack protection, i.e. freshly welded areas of clean metal.

I wouldn't call it an issue, you have a negligible weep on the rack seal but you do need to replace that boot for the MOT.

Not necessary on these units, they're permanently driven and the system is constantly circulating the gas and PAG lube.

If it's too cold then it won't work but on a sunny afternoon it should be up near ten degrees ambient so you can set the blower full cold blowing from the dash vents, then switch on the Aircon and the blown air should get noticeably colder.

You can still run it up to test it, it's perfectly safe to do so.

I think it's a very good idea unless you live on a billiard table...

Personally I use blue hylomar for oil tight seals, the page link you show is for the 8V MPI engine, 45NM sounds crazy tight, have you stripped the threads?

It would help if you could tell us which model you have and which audio system is fitted.

That was a very long time ago, I'd be extremely surprised if it were still possible, so many parts have been deleted now and dealers are under no obligation to supply obsolete parts any more. Worth a try I guess but it's not like a dusty lock will be sitting on a shelf somewhere, it'll be a special order of a brand new part

A DSG gearbox should not allow you select gears when the engine isn't running since they can't mesh properly, it's not a true automatic, it's a dual clutch robotised manual with alternating gears on each input shaft.

Valve train damage is a binary state I'm afraid, there either is damage or there isn't. I'd still love to know how that bolt came loose, did you do something stupid?

I have a vast amount of general experience with tuned vehicles of all shapes and sizes and I wouldn't touch one of these with a ten foot pole unless it was really properly cheap. The problem is double jeopardy, both the engine AND the gearbox are unreliable, particularly at these ages and mileages, the trade knows this so any warranty you might get won't cover your ass when it all goes wrong, and it will!

The springs can't come out when the car's on its wheels so the tester won't know that the springs are too short and can come loose on full rebound. On a standard Mark 1 the spring and shock are separate so you could always go back to standard just for the test if needs be.

I believe it is an interference engine but you'll soon find out! How on god's green earth did the crank pulley bolt come loose?

There seems to be a correlation with the DPF reaching 100k miles (160k km) and the ECU deciding that a new one is needed, this is not the first thread to highlight this unpleasant reality! If the DPF is replaced the dealer can reset the ECU so that the regen interval returns to normal. There will be a lot of ash in the old DPF, I've cut one open and seen it.

You don't need OEM, just a new radiator that will fit.

Tidy that, clutch'll be fried beyond salvation.

What colour?

Another Mark 1 what?

You can't just order a barrel to suit your keys, if you want one key to do everything then you'll need a complete lockset to replace everything.

Then it's the rotary switch, simply replace it.

It's half a days work for two men, put the axle stands under the body longitudinal members behind the subframe, release the pinch bolt clamping the steering column, release and cap the hydraulic pipes from the rack, unplug the angle sensor and release its wiring, release the two bottom balljoints, three bolts each side and the dogbone then, after marking the subframe position, release it, drop it down and slide it out to change the rack in easy more.

The DPF needs a deep chemical clean and the ECU counter reset.

I would say you do have a problem.

I did help and my opinion of your abilities is increasing slightly, mind you it was starting from a low base! A new actuator needs adapting after fitting.