sepulchrave

All fitters hate working on rusty stuff because stuff seizes and they don't get extra time on the job to spray jizz and leave it to soak.

It could, as I've already told you, so rather than repeat myself perhaps you should get the existing actuator re-adapted then if that fails you can just replace it.

Far more likely to be an air leak, the codes are just telling you the ECU doesn't like the amount of uncontrolled air entering the engine.

Yes, it's fitted to the intake plenum low down on the left near the dipstick, it's not easy to get at and they don't give any trouble so I'd look for air leaks in the vacuum servo pipe first if I were you.

I would be amazed if the car has rusted that badly in a year, I'd get a second opinion if I were you. The garage is scaremongering, I'm just not sure why.

Mk 2 1.6 TDI uses an electronic actuator and these can give problems, new ones are available but not from VAG, fitting a new one will require software adaptation.

I use ordinary water pump or gland nut pliers, works great

Not on the 1.4 MPI, it's incredibly straightforward, just get 'er done.

Try swapping coil packs, 1-2 and 3-4 to see if the misfires change cylinders when it happens again.

What do you want to do then, you can't repair your pump?

Like what? Come on fella, you're nearly hysterical, you don't need to play the safety card here, this is a self help forum offering practical advice, leave the precautionary principle bullsh!t to the creatives.

Put simply, you set the lash so the injector gets a full stroke of the piston, therefore you adjust the rocker until the injector bottoms out then back it off half a turn.

Sodium Azide is not impact sensitive and is not classed as an explosive either so it's perfectly safe to muck about with the airbag module, it can only be triggered by electricity, they're literally idiot proof.

It's electrically triggered so disconnecting the battery will render it safe.

I wouldn't bother yet, the sensor is a symptom, not the cause of these problems. You can get that fault code from just cranking the car if it doesn't start.

It seems so, I would ignore the speed sensor fault for now and consider buying a matched ECU and cluster from a scrap car.

Yes, go through them all one by one.

Just chuck another pump at it: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185433645926?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=npYheZPtRx6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=_BlMq7ebT3O&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The various ECU'S should have diode protection from reverse polarity but you should also check all the fuses as some of them may have popped too.

That's how it goes when you know so little that you rely on what stuff looks like rather than how well stuff works.

VW505.01 is perfect. Brand new oil will go black in a diesel after a few hours use so the colour is irrelevant, do NOT use a flushing compound, flushing is not needed because modern oils already contain cleaning additives, simply change the oil because it's 3 years old.

No threadlock, use the special moly paste for torquing them to the spec. TBH they're a bit of an ostentation, PD150 head bolts are more than good enough.

Maybe it's more dependent on geographical location, certainly here in the southeast garages are not interested in fitting customer supplied parts.

No they won't unless they're desperate because supplying the parts and making a margin on them is part of their income.

Ahem: The clue is in the title Ken...