travs

Yep, good shout. Had watched lots of YouTube vids and was sensitive to that. Rear didn’t need touching as we changed the droplinks in situ. Front were unbolted and kept out the way then bolted back in, in the right holes. I can see the headlights self-level when I start the car so figure they’re working and happy too.

What pallavas! Makes me lucky the one order I did make was accurate. I did order from Spareto last week. Seemed a decent price for a pair of aluminium LCAs at c.£70 each. I needed them quickly so swallowed the £36 delivery and DHL did deliver quickly (although originally said they would deliver after I needed them). The kick in the balls was the £53 import duty DHL then hit me with. Exceptionally aggressive WhatsApp messaging and threatening early on to go down the credit collection referral. Tad unnecessary on top of it. Will def plan my parts purchasing in future.

4wa is booked - couldn’t schedule doing the work and getting the alignment done straight after. Minimal miles so I’m not overly worried about it as it’s a known. But it’s whether there’s a healthy chance that the midalignment would also trigger any or all of these by throwing out ADAS is what I’m curious about. Or whether it’s perhaps a wheel speed sensor as well and it’s multiple causes. ACC doesn’t work, nor does auto main beam (crystal matrix). That with the lane assist and dynamic lighting I could believe is ADAS, but the tyre pressure indicator, ESP, Autohold and hill start assist definitely point to a wheel sensor. Rear traffic alert doesn’t really fit into any of those categories though.

Following work on the front end chassis over the weekend I have the following collection of errors. On the way home of a half hour drive, about 5 minutes from home, these came up. They also come up every time the ignition goes on. What’s the consensus: Lee’s battery is on its way out - it’s coincidence Lee’s ham-fisted approach has probably unalived a wheel speed sensor Changing the rear drop links, front droplinks and lower arms (including loosening the subframe and now making the car pull left unless the steering is 30degrees right) probably means an ADAS recalibration is needed Booked in for a few things end of the month (oil service, dsg service, ruddy top mounts, front arb) then straight for 4wa after. Question is, do I need to do anything else as well? Also tested the battery and was pretty decent SOH and SOC so that doesn’t flag immediately but I could be being naive on that… Thoughts…?

Autodoc’s scattergun approach to parts supply. H&R rear anti roll bar?

I had a weird incident the other day. Boot was open and right-side boot lid sidelight was flickering/strobing. Closed the lid and it stopped on the way down never to have done it again. Tbh as long as I don’t have to spend what I guess is a stupid amount of money getting a replacement I’m happy.

Cheers for the update and sorry to see all the parts are failing because of it but yours was the testament that was defying everyone else’s (and giving me hope I wouldn’t have to **** around returning mine). Gone with @JR RS ’s suggestion although Delphi were out of stock so KYB variants on their way.

Cheers for this. Back go the TRC1070 items then. You def called it @JR RS - In my (our) defence there isn’t an AI LLM or retailer who doesn’t list everything MQB as compatible. Started going down a track-width rabbit hole. The TTS track is still thinner (by less) so the OE TTS alloy ones would still be wrong. Only car I could think with a wide track was 8Y RS3. 4mm wider overall so 2mm per side is a fraction of a degree more negative camber. Might be what these Delphi items are for? As now, trying to find OE RS3 is impossible without stumbling across a million items which are apparently compatible with RS3 and everything else (ie not at all). They look a good find though!

@MarioVrs What Superpro arms did you use? I've ordered and received some TRC1070s and now finding conflicting stories about whether they're right for the car or not. Do you still have them on?

Hmmmm - I found nothing definitive on it and thought these were fine. Have since seen your post but then Mario's seem to be fine... MarioVrs' post

No. RHD. Does that make a difference?

Just as an update as I said I would. Drove the car this morning in the dark - right side of the motorway was kept in the dark, trees on the left were lit up. So mine all looks fine to me. 2021 L&K with Full LED Matrix etc

Goodies arrived…🤪

@jeffl Coasting is more intrusive on the facelift models which this is. It’s in all preset profiles rather than just Eco. The only way to avoid it is to have the individual profile setting for drive mode to sport and then gearbox will be in S so you need to then change it if OP didn’t want to be. Also in facelift cars, it always starts in Normal profile rather than remembering which profile you were in. So every time you get in the car you need to switch profile and then knock the gearstick back to be in Normal (if so desired).

Ohhhh - so essentially vibration was disappearing when haldex disengaged - once you’re up and moving the car is basically front wheel drive. Makes a lot of sense. You’re right though it should be every 2 years and clean the gauze on the end of the pump as well as change the oil. It isn’t in the dealer workshop manual but all decent independents know to do it (although always worth asking just to check). Anyway, glad all is sorted!

@MCollings selecting a place is always best down to recommendation from personal experience. If Binx is happy with it and he’s been there, that’s what you’re looking for 👍🏼

Agree - if you want weaker tyres to let go, you want the fronts rather than the rears. I'd put money on the rear ARB if there's a twisting effect. As Occy says, get something a little stiffer and get new rear droplinks too to make sure you cover off those as well.

Have found the same. Brake disc sizes are entirely random despite the make, model and trim confirmed. @Breezy_Pete knows his onions so take that as gospel. And tbh I’d just google it and see what comes up. Skoda parts is always an option.

This looks potentially interesting...

I’ve got an L&K and think there’s nothing wrong with adding cosmetic touches. I’ve removed the badges on the front wings and the Superb and 4x4 on the boot. Also have a Reiger rear diffuser in the pipeline - looks tasteful and subtle 👍🏼

Partly to have crisp handling, partly to replace 5 year old parts, partly to chase a creak: Superpro Front and rear droplinks ordered (the creak is front but thought I'd do the rears). Superpro LCAs (standard geometry with poly bushes), H&R front arb. Ordered Superpro but given they're on back order until October, I started hunting around for parts in the country. Whiteline, Superpro and Hardrace are all part of the same group and all on back order, APR/IE and 034 were also rare and the best part of £100 more, but found the H&R one as last in stock at Progressive Parts so happy with that. Given I'd also been lovetapped in the rear (which showed that the rear bumper had indeed been repaired with putty and resprayed) a replacement bumper has been ordered from a breakers in the same colour (needs a machine polish to tidy but I can do that) and to go with it is a Reiger diffuser on its way too. Will tidy and fit all that together when off the car and then put it on with @OccyVRS when the time comes. Coolant Vent Union also ordered but, obvs, Racingline version.

Not a term I’ve heard for a while! Propshaft donut was always a thing on E36 BMWs. Soft donk when engaging reverse to remind you it was there. Good tip though - cheers Mario.

Interesting. For paint thickness I’m not sure you’ll find anything that will hold them bang to rights. Although some of those figures sound horrendous - not sure my NexPTG would read paint that thick. As for recourse on damage, having always had a weird shape in my rear bumper since buying it at 6m old from a Carr’s Exeter in Sept ‘21 as the GM’s company car, and now having been hit up the rear last week, you can see evidence that the rear bumper has been damaged and filled before respray. They never mentioned a thing - I wouldn’t have cared. I’d never get anything from them but it was a **** move by them.

I have a 2021 L&K and I have heated and cooling front seats but the rear are only heated. Perhaps you have the same? @numskull - you have a 2016 L&K? Do you have heated and cooled front and heated-only rear?

Looks like ECS tuning one but with a different sticker like here