MikeTheThinker

I assume this means you don't have the factory fit roof rails fitted? One option would be to source a pair of roof rails (plenty available from breakers) as the mounting holes should already be there in the roof under the protective rubber strips. Alternatively, how about a temporary roof rack/bars? Search for soft roof rack or roof bag, Here are some on Amazon for example: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Roof-Bag/s?k=Roof+Bag

So that puts my qualitative reports in their place!

I've checked a number of my cars (3x Octy mk2, 1x Octy mk1, 2x Citroen Xantia) against Google[tm] maps (including the speed display before it was provided by maps) and have found around 10% over-read on the car speedos. I did have plans to set up a dash cam inside the car to record both speedo and satnav but the project died as I couldn't find anywhere non-destructive to mount the camera to see both displays. I'm sure there's an app out there somewhere that will do the magic on a smartphone ... BTW I did also carry out speedo checks pre-Google by holding a steady indicated speed on the motorway whilst my passenger used a stopwatch to time the mile marker posts. I can't find my notes from those experiments (some on two wheels) but IIRC the 10% figure was still about right.

If you take a look at the Scout extra plastic trims HERE you can see what is included. They do provide some extra protection - especially to the sills - but I'm not sure about the wheel arch benefits. The wheel arch trims on my Scout are great at collecting mud and will sprout moss if not thoroughly cleaned out regularly!

If you take a look at the parts catalogue entry HERE for a 2007 1Z Octy you can see that the wing (what you called the fender) is the same for all Octy models of that year (and, as far as I know, for all mk2 Octys). The model differentiations are almost entirely in the plastics - for example there are three front bumper types. Note that you will need to use a hot air gun to soften the polyurethane adhesive inside the top of the wing, and I'd recommend replacing the two foam rubber supports/dampers under the wing.

Which panel specifically are you looking at? AFAIK all the Scout body mods are in the plastics.

Have a quick search on fleabay; there's plenty of mk2 Octys being broken. I suspect you'll struggle to find a brown one, though 😞

I used to have the privelege of riding socially with some Police motorcyclists. Their sense of humour definitely rubbed off on me and they taught me the meaning of the GLF sign

Oddly enough I saw a similar model down here on The Wirral a couple of weeks back. I don't know enough about them to say which version it was but it looked like a more staid version of yours. Top Tip: avoid the A90; lots of passport cameras and nee-naws - although I can't see any of the nee-naws catching you if you put your mind to it

So is that the FQ model or the VFQ version?

See @Carlstonreply for full spec but do check the number of studs; earlier VAG stuff used 4 studs at 100mm, later (from about 2004/5 I believe) used s 5 studs at 112mm.

Yes and yes The insulation hardens over time which makes the cables prone to vibration fracture and also work fracture from the door opening and closing. Examine carefully so as to not induce further breaks.

Most likely failure area will be the wiring loom that passes through from the front wing pillar to the driver's door. Search on here for "broken wiring loom" or similar. If you don't find anything I'll see what I can find when I get back to base.

Does it occur with the wheel turned both ways or just to one side? The usual suspect for such would be a CV joint.

Searching Google[tm] with "octavia mk2 bonnet lock release handle" brings up a number of allegedly valid options, including: From China https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255862602220 From Bury https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113847419605 From Czech https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/7e18235339b9-bonnet-lock-release-lever-european-union-14680.html (not sure if this is RHD or LHD) Later: found it. Item 28 HERE and HERE but note the rhd part number - 1J2 823 533 C OR 1J2 823 533 C B41 if you want it in satin black. Oh, and it's officially called a "grip for lid lock cable". So now you know

I took another look at 7zap just in case. No part number there but the diagram seems clearer so I beliefe #28 and #29 could be the same thing and #30 could be your phantom clips as there are 8 of them to the panel. 4A5853909 Parts Inn CLIPS-MUTTER CLIPS NU https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/octavia/oct/2007-419/8/863-863020/#30 https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/4a585390901c-clip-nut-skoda-39594.html From a quick hunt via Mr Google[tm] it seems these clip nuts have a multitude of applications and are widely available across the VAG range. Here's some piccies ... https://www.oemvwshop.com/4a5853909-01c-speed-nut-satin-black-p288945/#gallery

After trawling through lots of possible catalogue pages for your bits/fasteners I came across the one linked below which shows the acoustic damping panels in the engine bay (2008 Octy, Europe). I believe the acoustic damping panel you seek is item 27, although be careful on part numbers as the first two of three listed are for LHD. There are also three possible fastener items shown - 28, 29 & 30, although I can't tell which are the ones you seek. Unfortunately there's no part number shown for #29. What I did note is the part number for the clips that hold the bonnet damping pad on so if these are the same as those for the firewall you have a part number. I've found skoda-parts.com good for confirming part numbers against items and also good for supply. Fingers crossed! https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/419/8/863/863020

I think you'll need the middle option of the three on the picture - https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/OCT/419/9/927/927000

Sorry, can't help with that. My comment was based on general experience with pumps as they normally need to be able to create an hydraulic seal in order to pump. A quick Google[tm] search for help on this brought up: "Risk of damage to the high pressure pump through running dry If the high pressure pump is removed or replaced, the initial fuel filling of the high pressure pump must be carried out before the first engine start. For this purpose, connect the vehicle diagnosis, measurement and information system -VAS 505x- and carry out the targeted function „bleeding the fuel system“. During this function, the fuel pump is actuated for 180 seconds." https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/power_unit/1.6/55;_66;_77_kw_tdi_cr_engine/fuel_preparation_system_diesel_injection/fuel_system_engine_side/removing_and_installing_the_high_pressure_pump/ https://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/power_unit/2.0/81;_103;_125_kw_tdi_cr_engine_(2nd_generation)/fuel_preparation_system_diesel_injection/fuel_system_engine_side/high_pressure_pump_summary_of_components/

Does the HPFP need to be primed before becoming functional?

Once the clips have been identified (best guess eyeball I would think, unless someone on here can offer direct experience) try www.skoda-parts.com (based in Czechia, excellent source for parts but carriage can be pricey) or www.aliexpress.com (China, not entirely helpful search engine but cheapest option as long as you don't mind waiting a few weeks for the post).

Glad you thought of that!

It looks like your car is a mk2 pre-facelift Octavia VRS, in which case you're looking for item 3 on HERE, but do check on the colour you need,

This is NOT your motor (I think it's actually a Porsche motor) but it should give you some ideas as to how oil circulates around an engine: