MarkyG82

Go for B6 instead. Same valving but stock height. Works well with moderate lowering (prokit etc). B6/8 is definitely firmer but not hard. With the stiffer rate of lowering springs the ride is noticeably firmer. The control of the suspension is amazing though. Definitely worth it. I lived with it (B6 + prokit) for 2 years with wife and kids too. No complaints.

Kind of related to this but apologies if not relevant: My GTE will coast in ev mode with clutch engaged as electric motors have very little drag. In hybrid it does the same but will declutch and shut the engine off. So then the same as above. What I don't get is how it works in hybrid but with the engine running. It clearly will be in gear as the revs change in line with vehicle speed. But the there is no engine braking like you would have in a manual or other DSG car. Does it drive it with a little fuel or electric to counter the drag maybe? I'll move this to another forum if needed.

That will be the 380 or 381. Definitely not the 200. The dq200 dry clutch box is almost exclusively fitted to engines smaller than 2.0.

It is certainly a DIY job if you have the appetite/time/skill. Toot touches on an important factor as you are using it for private hire. Maybe worth finding a garage that will do the work and offer a level of warranty that would not likely be possible with a DIY job. Sounds like you have most of the tools required. One thing that is uncommon is a triple square spline bit (12mm maybe?) for the hub pinch bolts. Also something knocked up to spread the hub to release the bottom of the shock. Spring compressors too. All this is for the fronts. You could get a garage to do the front and do the rear yourself if desperate to save money/have a go.

Sounds to me like a driving style thing. The extra coasting is causing @Danoidto brake harder/more which is having the effect of cleaning the brakes off. I think most would use eco as designed to lift much earlier than normal and coast and then tap a pedal to engage a gear for a little bit of engine braking near the stopping point. The use of eco doesn't necessarily make the car use the brakes more. It's how you make use of the "feature".

It's been a while but when I got mine I paid £200 for the unit + £100 for the screen (most basic one that was damaged) + £80 for component protection + £200nfor pab567 to code it. At the time this was probably the cheapest mostly because of the screen I used. I'd expect to pay £6-700 minimum for mib2. FYI none of the parts you have apart from cabling are mib2 compatible. You'll need a glovebox unit and screen. You may also need a usb socket but mine was similar age to yours and didn't need one for android. Didn't work on iPhone though.

@Revo145 contact your local VW dealer is the best/easiest option. Should be around £150 in the uk. Not sure on the Swedish price.

Sound should be similar. If getting a kit ready to fit from the likes of pab567 (legend btw) you'll be looking at a few hundred pushing £1k depending on the features you want. Worth it in my opinion as you make good use of your phone and the screen will be bigger and better looking. If you are thinking of virtual dash down the line then expect to pay more.

Been discussed loads. Quite recently too. Have a trawl through the forums and come back with any questions.

I would do my best to climb underneath and inspect the springs before doing anything else. Also take a look at as many bushes as you can. Bushes are cheap but potentially labour intensive compared to other jobs so the more you know before handing over to a garage the better. Springs may sag over time but they are inherently stable single piece items. Unless damaged by corrosion or impact they should be fine. However, they need to come out to change the shocks so if you are at all concerned it may be a good time to do the springs. Especially the fronts as the shocks need to come apart for those. It's a good time (labour cost) saving to have the front built up before hand (shock + spring + top mount) then just swap them over. Rears aren't constructed the same way but are real easy to do so no time save needed. The garage will make very little money in changing the springs as they have to come out anyway. So it's down to budget. If you can afford springs then go for it. If they look good then no point. If you want to increase the rear support search through @Carlston's many posts for part numbers of uprated springs.

Given the age of the car I would get all 4 done. The rears are quite cheap compared to the front. I would guess you have 50mm front shocks. 55 are usually for vrs or 4x4 models. To find out you could get some string and wrap it round the front shock at the bottom where it goes into the hub. 157mm round and you have 50mm. 172mm round it's 55mm.

Can we know where? I have family in Kent so worth my time getting a good deal and staying over.

If you want a different opinion to the very knowledgeable man above I'll give my thoughts. The springs are not likely to be affected even at that age unless there is damage. The shocks could well need replacing and a fresh set of originals would do you fine. If you want something with a bit more support that won't blow through the travel then I can recommend bilstein b6. Standard ride height but firmer and much better damping. I would also put your money into the bushes while it's coming apart. Sounds like you have given it a bit of hard time so some fresh joints would give it some new life. Don't have to be expensive. I wouldn't go for poly or the like. New originals should be fine and make the car feel tight again.

Bilstein make a b4 and b6 that are both DCC. Damptronic I think they call it. Koni SA are definitely NOT DCC. Although if you get a set of gadgets (bilstein also make them) you can fit regular shocks to a DCC car. You obviously lose the function though.

Just realised that my explanation was quite poor so I'll have another brief stab for the benefits of those reading this in the future: DCC is active suspension controlled by clever sensors that adjusts the valving depending on user settings and the conditions it sees on the road. These Koni shocks are passive in that they don't have electronics attached but do have special valves that respond to different conditions. Similar mountain bike shocks which soften when hitting a sharp bump, these will have stiff damping in cornering and braking but change to a different damping circuit when a sharp hit is detected allowing it to move through the stroke faster to absorb the hit. Then it returns to the firm setting to provide the sporty feel. I believe the koni technology differs from other by using multiple circuits rather than blow off shims. In theory it offers a more reliable damping on the high speed setting rather than relying on the fully open blow off. They are a drop in replacement for any standard suspension of any ride height.

I am convinced mine were fitted wrong. Had springs fitted yesterday and the guy who did it (who I trust) said the shocks were all over the place. Now he's sorted it and fitted the springs it's smooth as butter. I was expecting it to be more firm as that's what I had with my Octavia. That was one bilstein b6 though so much firmer ride. Still undecided which I prefer. It's only been one ride home with the new springs so it needs more time.

When you say active Monroe's do you mean DCC? If so then no they are not a replacement. These have fancy valving that firms up at certain points. Apologies if you knew all that.

Can recommend the dtuk version. Works well and has many tuning options. Ingot mine second hand from a golf gtd user. Went onto my Octavia 2.0tdi and now on my Passat GTE. So I can say for certain that it's cross compatible between those models so likely to be across many others. I wouldn't have an issue buying used again.

Oh yeah the half filled gaps can look odd. I guess it would be over cooled if the fillers were removed.

The rear looks good. I prefer the original front though. It's the stripes I think.

It's an emissions thing. It resets the mode to least (ish) emitting setting.

@tootis this confirmed with the Kodiak having a wet box on the small engine? Would that be the first FWD small engine Skoda with a wet box?

Look again. Plenty MK2 dsg superbs on autotrader.

Only comes on vrs or 4x4 versions. Maybe some high spec cars (L&K) with 2.0 engine. Definitely not in a 1.4/5.

As I expected. Not a lot round here you don't have a little experience in. Your initial comment was a little misleading based on the original discussion. That's all. No disrespect intended.