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Great to listen to someone that knows about the cars, the details and drives & lives with them long term.

Recent. Mk3, 1.4 TSI. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/458348-timing-belt/page/3 Skoda / VW UK are not changing advice anytime soon. Plenty threads in the different forums about covering the subject over the past decade for TSI's and TDI,s.

I was pleasantly surprised at my cars energy loss sitting since Wednesday in pretty cold nights and not that warm days until today. It was showing 96% and 170 miles. Door unlocked a few times but not turned on or moved. So today when it got in it was showing 178 miles and 2 miles later when I plugged into the charger it was at 93%. Fairs well for leaving the car parked up for a few weeks.

Members helped with this. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/426080-evo-magazine-buying-guide http://evo.co.uk/skoda/fabia-vrs ................. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/453390-buying-a-mk2-fabia-vrs http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/472431-fabia-vrs-mk2-cave-issues-and-tabs This was one of the last vRS registered in the UK. The Service Campaign was missed. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/432730-oil-leak http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/483018-gearbox-issue http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/503146-mechatronic-leaking These are linked in other threads, might as well go here as well. Not always factually correct info... Ex member.

About August 2012 are the first UK registered ones. MY13 after the factory summer break. They still never got the first ones right and needed a software update, even some needed the Breather Mod and then Oil Spray Jet updates. 2013 another Software update. (I ordered a New Seat Ibiza Cupra with the new engine, new engine management, they were delayed being sold / imported until the balls-up was sorted out.) They dropped a VED band to the same as the POLO GTI had been. Later the Kerb Weight had to be corrected by VW / SEAT, because as usual they lied. Heavier cars, wider tyres, shows as more efficient and faster even though not. http://autocar.co.uk/car-review/seat/ibiza-cupra-2009-2017/first-drives/seat-ibiza-cupra-first-drive http://autocar.co.uk/car-review/seat/ibiza-cupra-2009-2017 So the 2012-2013 early CTHE never got the Service Campaign '34F7' carried out on the DSG, or the then 2013-2015 '34H5' software update. See the last pages of the pinned thread up top. That was another balls-up. About 1,800 CAVE, then 1,000 CTHE. Around 800 are estates in the UK.

Much dampness this winter with freezing days / nights and then thaws and warm weather. The damp traps are well worth the cost even though now £4 for 4 in ASDA. Singles are £1.25. I think i am stocked for the rest of the winter as the first ones put in cars this winter and not ready for a environmentally friendly disposal.

@J.R.During the night on the World Service Radio i was listening to an article on the Romans and 'Self-healing' concrete. Obviously a strange use of the term from the scientists. But that is what it is. Maybe not to be used to protect a cars paint work other than for building a garage. http://science.org/content/article/scientists-may-have-found-magic-ingredient-behind-ancient-romes-self-healing-concrete

@Felix2021Good if there are many 200 or 300 km 1.5TSI's on the go without any issues. Any doing 200,000 miles is good real world testing. Time will tell how many are used as taxis and prove themselves. There must be owners out there with a remapped 1.5 TSI that can share their experiences and maybe even have a dyno print out, or even ones that have fitted a tuning box. Anyone considering a Tuning Box needs to remember there are 130 ps 1.5 TSI's as well as the 150ps in the Skodas. Best just talk to a good trusted local tuner about a Remap of the engine and the DSG.

The flaps should close automatically as you reverse.

@ninjadadYour DSG can take a lot more torque without issues compared to the manual box the OP has.

It would be interesting if they were there starting and reversing, because the intakes should be closed then.

EDIT. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/509469-code-p25bc-turbo-wastegate-stuck-open @Felix2021 You can not hear about cars over 5 years old having issues until there are ones over 5 years old. I love these engines, but i have my eyes wide open to the complexity. Time will tell what they are like at 6 years and older and at higher miles. The 1.4 TSI's are still being sold new elsewhere in the world and fitted to a 8 speed auto. That is where VW does not need to have cars meet WLTP / RDE2 but have them behave properly on the road As the early ones get their Timing belt changed for the first time all seems well apart for some that sadly were landed with the early 1.5 TSI with a fundamental issue with engine management as VW rushed to get them to get the WLTP and certification. But that is in the past, unless anyone gets landed with a bad one. We will see how the GPF's are after 5 years and when the first ones need replacing and at what expense. As to the DQ200 history. We know it very well, and how much you can increase the power / torque beyond what the factory gives as the max, and also how to upgrade the software and clutch packs. That is a known known, 15 years worth of knowledge, unlike with the 1.5 TSI ACT's.

@Phoenixboy You have a pretty new car. You should not have issues, not even the slight ones you do have. You are only about £2.50 a tank more for Sainsbury Super Unleaded 97 min or Tesco Momentum 99, maybe even no more expensive depending where you buy your E10 95 ron. Cold weather is really not that relevant to if you feel any benefit from using it.

@Blueallblueno9welcome to the forum. Enjoy the car when it comes. Do you just need a Boot Liner with a bit that flaps out for the dogs getting in and out to protect the bumper. Maybe a rubber backed carpet runner from B&M, Home Bargains or the likes for much cheapness rather than the ones for sale for the job, not that they are that expensive, plenty on Ebay / Amazon.

They have gone and built a new bridge down river from one of my favourite ones. Toot toot tooting never did much here if someone was already on their way up the other side.

@Phoenixboyones that misbehave from cold starts do not need the weather to be as cold as O*oC or lower. A chill air temp below 10*oC might well show up poor cold starting and running. But dealers / traders cars can be sitting with fuel that has been in the tanks for weeks or months and that can be pre Winter Petrol & Diesel in the tank from before November. Many cars run well after they have had a few miles driven and fresh fuel in after being at an auction, moved about occasionally and maybe just had an Italian Tune up to get the cosmetic corrosion off the discs.

Possibly a Spark Plug or Ignition Coil issue if the car went into limp mode. Possibly the Turbo Charger. Has the car had the Spark Plugs changed anytime or recently?

@DRW What engine has the car? Petrol / Diesel? What age? ? It was not running out of fuel was it, or misfueled? Would she be sure it was the engine that lost power or went into limp mode, no RPM available. & it was not drive lost with the DSG.

@narerusco what pressure are you running these CrissClimate 2,s at? Are you in or going to a country where you have to carry Snow Chains or might have to fit them or is none of that relevant? PS If your cars body is not flexing badly and the handling is ok in warmer weather with summer tyres and handling OK do you really need a Strut brace to tighten up the engine compartment during winter time?

Karoq. Autohold not well explained and the button, and the e-Brake does operate differently from Autohold, and it is the e-Brake that applies when you take off the seat belt , open the door etc.

The MOT is carried out with the weight on the wheels and off the wheels. When the car is jacked off the wheels and the play in the bearing is checked.

Plenty people use them and are happy enough. If they work for them then fair enough.

They must be missing a Master Technician at that dealership.

Ok. So there is an issue right there when the oil is getting to an indicated 72*oC and the Coolant gauge is showing so low. The coolant should get to temp as that is heating up the engine / engine oil. Ok that the oil takes a good few miles to get to a efficient operating temp, ie around 90 *oC, not so with the coolant.

@feirmeoirThere is a coolant gauge or readout and eventually the coolant should get to an indicated 90*oC or so. It is not accurate. Then there is the Oil Temperature. The Oil temp might well go higher, show a higher than in the 90,s temp. The Coolant is supposed to be reducing the oil temp back down into the low 90's when all is working well. Not sure where you are at now, but at around 12*oC ambient temp one might expect the Coolant to get to indicating at around 90*oC by 10 miles or maybe a few miles more.