Breezy_Pete

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/3T2971121AK/skoda-wiring-set-for-door-3t2971121ak One option

Watch this from about 1:30 (he has a false start before that where he forgets which way the clip moves.

Flat blade screwdriver that's close to the same width as the gap. Rest it in there, then as sep says, you need to squeeze the two mating halves of the connector together, then twist the screwdriver to lift that clip. The pushing together is because there's a rubber seal in the midst of the connector which is currently causing the latch to be very difficult to disengage, once you compress that seal, the latch can move freely.

Add a switch in series with the feed wire(s) to them. Or the command wire from the switch if that is a different thing.

Disconnect the fronts?

I'm seeing nothing 'in the way' between ignition switch terminal 50 (red/black wire 2.5mm CSA) and starter motor solenoid connection (thinnest wire going to starter). If you have a voltmeter/multimeter and an assistant, you can maybe disconnect this wire at the starter solenoid, and see if it is getting 12V relative to battery negative when the key is turned all the way to the position usually associated with starter motor noises.

I'll have a look at circuits on big screen shortly. I was just looking at a couple of relays that might've been worth checking, if it had had start/stop. Can you message me the VIN so I can find a build date please?

Does this car have start/stop?

Check blade fuse no.6 on battery-top fuseholder.

Sounds like ignition switch failure.

The drawing is wrong in this case, out of date compared to what's written. For a 2017 Superb, this is another 'wild' ETKA page showing brake light switch of the part number you mention. LLLParts See where it says ".. associated part 611-000,7 ..."? That page is the brake master cylinder, where you can see it mounted on the side, item 7: LLLParts See how the representation of this "brake light sensor" looks just like the parts shown in google image results of the part number (and quite unlike the image of the pedal version in the other ETKA page)? Look on your car in the two places, photograph what you see.

What do you mean by fan module? I think on your car the fan control module will be built into the main radiator fan.

I think you may want to trust what's visible on a car, over what's on a database; but up to you.

It's me that's offering these repairs. I'll start a PM chat with you shortly.

Are you sure? Look at google image results for that PN.

This sounds like a different problem - not filter-related- especially if it's happening beyond the first minute or two from cold start; in my opinion.

Go elsewhere or DIY.

Please stop yelling like a madman.

Ask them to check the oil filter seal. They should be familiar with the problem. Bet the chain is OK.

Which engine type? I think the 1.2 TSI has a common 'gotcha' where a seal gets left behind by the old oil filter and screws things up with similar symptoms.

Not to worry. I'll leave you in sepulchrave's capable hands.

Still. Why not let the garage do it? Have they quoted?

The intermittent settings are the most demanding use case. As described in first post.

Position 10.2 is described as headlight dip relay, so I guess you have the type with a single H7 halogen bulb and a moving shutter system that selects between main and dipped beam? Pos 4 is the X contact relief relay (switches off various current consumers during engine cranking) Pos 13 is your engine ECU relay - "Diesel direct injection system relay" Pos 14 is fuel pump relay.

We will need to know which engine type your Fabia has. "Oxygen sensor" usually refers to an exhaust (lambda) sensor, but 'air flow sensor' suggests that you're thinking of something in the intake tract. It would be best to scan the engine ECU to see why it has put the fault light on, rather than start firing 'the parts cannon' at guessed reasons.