Breezy_Pete

I meant the genuine VW-Group part number, in the same sense that the genuine (VW) part number for your whole alternator is 06F906023F, as seen in your photo. I could work out the correlation via a couple of pages in the parts catalogue, 'alternator versions' and 'alternator and single parts'. Two points of interest now that I'm looking with morning eyes on a larger screen. "Made in GB" on the main part number label. 😲 And just above and to the left of the barcode you can make out some of the Bosch part number info of the regulator/brushpack itself, I think. BR14 - H, and then below that F 00M 145 316, possibly A different view might reveal all of that latter bit, which is how Bosch identify their brushpack/voltage regulators in detail. Be careful if you do try to change it in situ; the thick output cable connected to B1+ is fused, but it'll be a fairly heftily-rated strip of metal, so if you forget to remove battery negative first, and short that to earth, there will be a big flash and crackle before that fuse pops.

@colinstubbs that strip fuse is only used for the full speed of the fan(s), which I would really not expect to be invoked in the UK recently, so I would say that there is another as yet undiscovered fault relating to the low speed fan function. (Fed by one of the blade fuses - a 30 Amp one - in the adjacent covered section of same fuse tray.) There is a common fault with loss of low speed function, associated with an internal wirewound resistor, but check the blade fuse first. It's my bedtime now, more tomorrow.

I think the regulator for that alt has genuine part number 06F903803B. That may help you to cross-reference it to a Bosch part number.

Received, yep. Reply heading your way shortly.

Only those with start/stop and its associated different battery types and charging system, I believe, which I don't think is all from that date.

Clearly both codes were fitted to Polos in different years of production. I see no reason to doubt the OP has/had an AEY in his/hers.

Sounds like CTEK have cheaped out a bit on their output cable thickness (or copper quality).

Fair enough but I'm right about the earthing, right.

Or to put it another way, when the button is pressed it earths a 12V signal from the BCM, a 12V that won't be there if the BCM is asleep cos the car is locked. 👍

I missed this post Ian, sorry. Give me a shout by PM if you need to.

...and you're still going for the bait...

Nice find. 🙂

Check for corrosion on the pins of cabin fuses #1, and #16.

Does the battery symbol illuminate when you switch ignition on and all those other lights appear?

I think that was an example photo rather than the OP's present battery? I spotted a VW-group part number and thought 'oh! is this a factory-fitted original battery?' But that didn't fit with what they wrote; so then I guessed at a borrowed or old photo. @Cascarade please confirm, is that a photo of your new battery, or an old, or borrowed, photo?

But China probably make a very high proportion of the world's tyres, and using their own homegrown rubber is likely to be cheaper, one might imagine.

I once read that recently tyres are increasingly made with rubber grown domestically in China, as opposed to previous sources of 'Indian' rubber. The snag being that its physical properties aren't as good, allegedly, due to climatic differences. I haven't since found much online to support that, but it sounded like it might have a grain of truth in it. Not that much actual natural rubber is used in car tyres, according to this it's about 15% What are tyres made from (natural rubber) - The British Tyre Manufacturers’ Association (BTMA) (btmauk.com) Odd to think that in 2023 tyres do still grow on(in) trees.

Looks like a no, see items 34: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

No, the EGR, when working is what prevents most of the NOx formation, by changing the combustion conditions and constituents. DPF is mainly about catching particulate matter (soot). That is the only measure in MOT, at present, for diesels.

The negative clamp on the right looks OK, I think; but try moving the cable as shown by the yellow arrows, without much force. It should not move. Then release the clip in the red square and lift the plastic cover from the positive battery post/clamp and try the same there. Take a photo of that one while the cover is up. There might be another clip holding that cover, look for it if that one clip doesn't release it fully.

Check battery clamps are both tight (making sure they are not too high on the posts and the clamps therefore 'maxxed out'. (The posts have a small taper, narrower at the top).

Check the radiator thermoswitch first (for pink residue surrounding it), then the back of the block where there's a strange heat exchanger on the BXWs, couple of recent threads about them leaking. e.g. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/518176-fabia-14-16v-bxw-removing-intake-manifold/ Water pump is cambelt driven but not heard of them leaking much on these engines at all.

Yep, current part info says: pre-cat sensor is 03E 906 262C after cat one is 03C 906 262 Check ebay listings for any genuine new sensors of 03E906262C part number, but watch out for listings that come up as results for that but aren't really that number. You sometimes get new old stock ones for cheap. Or buy an aftermarket one that lists that exact part number as one that it replaces.

Read the part number off the original sensor and use that to cross-reference a correct one. If you can't see or read it, message me your VIN and I can tell you current correct PN for your car.

The type of emissions that EGR addresses isn't one that MOT measures. Namely NOx, oxides of nitrogen. Poisonous to things that breathe.