Breezy_Pete

No worries. Rear wiper failures are pretty common.

What makes you think that's the one? Sure it isn't #18?

What number fuse are you looking at?

As far as I'm aware, automatic locking should only occur in two circumstances. 1. Starting with an empty, locked car, you unlock using the radio remote button, but then do not open a door within about 30 seconds. Re-locking should happen, in case the button press was accidental when you were within range. 2. If the car is set up in this way, doors should all lock when setting off and exceeding some low speed threshold. Check your owners manual to seeoif any other automatic locking is described. Both mk2 and mk3 Fabia suffer from a poorly designed wiring bundle between front doors and A-pillars, so quite possible both cars had similar faults.

Auto locking should not happen after having opened a door. This suggests a fault with the door lock, or wiring to it, in whichever door you opened.

Well worth doing in case something like an injector fault is diluting the oil.

When you changed the oil filter did you also change the oil?

Blimey.

I very much doubt it would be a problem at MOT.

No point in changing coils before they fail, but may be wise to acquire a spare to keep in the glove box.

How many miles on the car? Seems highly unlikely they're original unless the mileage is super-low. If they are, they may be a bit 'sticky-inny' so go gently when trying to undo.

Spend a fiver on an air duster aerosol with a thin straw that you can direct down there to blow out the crap.

There's a dozen comparable cars here that suggest yours may have a problem if that 11L/100km turns out to be a true average: Gasoline consumption: Skoda - Octavia - Spritmonitor.de Bear in mind that people who choose to put their consumption data on sites like that are more likely to be 'hypermiler' types than dragstrip heroes though.

Which lambda sensor, there's likely to be two? Not an easy DIY usually. Price will vary a lot depending on location, and quality/source of part used.

Characters 7 and 8 of the VIN tell you which model you have. If 6Y you have a mk1 If 5J you have a mk2 If NJ you have a mk3 Calling some mk2s 'Fabia 1', 'Fabia 2', 'Fabia 3' as trim descriptions was daft, and confuses quite a few.

If you can see a part number, stick it into skoda-parts.com search box and that will probably tell you which Skodas used it, at least. Probably has an anti-icing function, to stop crankcase fumes freezing and blocking the breather as they drop pressure at the valve. On older versions of 1.4/16v there's an electric heater in the PCV valve. Share your VIN with me if you want current part numbers/prices if you wish.

Yes, I think 2kW. And yes, that looks very much like the problem.

Vehicle excise duty is set by politicians. Logic and consistency should not be expected.

On cars with these motors, convenience opening and closing is purely controlled via signals from lock modules going via window motor module. Just turn key and hold it turned. Fob buttons, BCM, everything else uninvolved. Does central locking currently work via key in door?

VCDS is blind to these guys cos the only data connection is a LIN wire between driver's and passenger side motor modules.

Roof colour 2G Exterior colour/paint code 2G/F8L. Says the VIN.

Nice to have visual confirmation of fault. Photos?

Is it not just a push-fit, or is there a clip? If push-fit, just ease it off from the end with a flat screwdriver or two, 'pushing' rather than pulling, if you see what I mean. Or deplete vacuum from servo by pressing brake pedal a few times and prise out that end.

Bulb type is often printed into the plastic of the bulb holder adjacent to where it goes.

You don't say that you have tried new bulbs; have you?