Breezy_Pete

I think that was an example photo rather than the OP's present battery? I spotted a VW-group part number and thought 'oh! is this a factory-fitted original battery?' But that didn't fit with what they wrote; so then I guessed at a borrowed or old photo. @Cascarade please confirm, is that a photo of your new battery, or an old, or borrowed, photo?

But China probably make a very high proportion of the world's tyres, and using their own homegrown rubber is likely to be cheaper, one might imagine.

I once read that recently tyres are increasingly made with rubber grown domestically in China, as opposed to previous sources of 'Indian' rubber. The snag being that its physical properties aren't as good, allegedly, due to climatic differences. I haven't since found much online to support that, but it sounded like it might have a grain of truth in it. Not that much actual natural rubber is used in car tyres, according to this it's about 15% What are tyres made from (natural rubber) - The British Tyre Manufacturers’ Association (BTMA) (btmauk.com) Odd to think that in 2023 tyres do still grow on(in) trees.

Looks like a no, see items 34: Car Parts Catalog - LLLParts

No, the EGR, when working is what prevents most of the NOx formation, by changing the combustion conditions and constituents. DPF is mainly about catching particulate matter (soot). That is the only measure in MOT, at present, for diesels.

The negative clamp on the right looks OK, I think; but try moving the cable as shown by the yellow arrows, without much force. It should not move. Then release the clip in the red square and lift the plastic cover from the positive battery post/clamp and try the same there. Take a photo of that one while the cover is up. There might be another clip holding that cover, look for it if that one clip doesn't release it fully.

Check battery clamps are both tight (making sure they are not too high on the posts and the clamps therefore 'maxxed out'. (The posts have a small taper, narrower at the top).

Check the radiator thermoswitch first (for pink residue surrounding it), then the back of the block where there's a strange heat exchanger on the BXWs, couple of recent threads about them leaking. e.g. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/518176-fabia-14-16v-bxw-removing-intake-manifold/ Water pump is cambelt driven but not heard of them leaking much on these engines at all.

Yep, current part info says: pre-cat sensor is 03E 906 262C after cat one is 03C 906 262 Check ebay listings for any genuine new sensors of 03E906262C part number, but watch out for listings that come up as results for that but aren't really that number. You sometimes get new old stock ones for cheap. Or buy an aftermarket one that lists that exact part number as one that it replaces.

Read the part number off the original sensor and use that to cross-reference a correct one. If you can't see or read it, message me your VIN and I can tell you current correct PN for your car.

The type of emissions that EGR addresses isn't one that MOT measures. Namely NOx, oxides of nitrogen. Poisonous to things that breathe.

I bought a set similar or the same as that out of curiosity. By inspection I concluded that they aren't for centralising so much as for 'putting back in same position as it was pre-removal' which isn't likely to be central. So no use if not acquired til after removal. I think once I'd realised their real purpose the workshop instructions made more sense.

This might help: Skoda Fabia blower motor replacement / Resistor peplacement repair - YouTube

When you were attempting the throttle body alignment did you ensure that all pre-conditions were met? All engine ECU fault codes cleared, 11.5V minimum battery voltage with ignition on, etc, as described on the Ross-tech page. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Throttle_Body_Alignment_(TBA)

Yes, and yes. I'll send you a private message with a contact number.

Have you tried turning key in door and holding fully turned, to see if the convenience opening/closing functions work? Doors must all be closed for this. Both windows should start to descend for key held in unlock position; close if the key is held other way.

Fuse 11 is the switched feed. On the bench, if you provide the two 12V feeds, you can ground the wire labelled R here and see if anything happens. Failing modules sometimes work when powered afresh, but then fail again next time they're given a wake-up call by the door lock 'key turned' signal or the ignition feed. In the absence of the passenger module it'll go to sleep after 10 minutes and only wake up if the main permanent feed is cycled, I seem to remember. If the LIN wire is connected to a passenger/slave unit that's also powered, the normal key and ignition 'wake-ups' should work.

It'll be the driver's side motor module failing/failed. Did your fuse and voltage checks include #11, an ignition switched feed to the smaller connector at the motor. There's no data connection other than the LIN wire, so OBDII is blind to these problems. If you're viewing on a computer rather than a phone, check the relevant link in my signature (below Quote button).

I'd be very surprised if a spray in the intake makes any difference, but apart from the price of the item, you haven't much to lose by trying, I think. Can you not clear the fault code just before setting off for the test?

No loss of coolant?

Yes, the 5V rail is generated within the ECU, but I believe it also goes to other items via splices/joins within the engine loom, so I would not advise bypassing that one unless you leave the existing wire in place, and just parallel onto it. Thinking about it, if that 5V supply had a wiring problem it would probably give intermittent faults on other sensors that it supplies (depending on where the fault is in relation to the splices), so I would probably conclude that one is fine.

Pump part number is shown on your last image 6Q0423156AB. I think the bits where it says reference voltage too low are a red herring, only relevant if the steering were the Koyo version which has a four-wire G250 sensor and a reference voltage associated with that.

I would think it's worth trying another sensor before looking any further, since you've checked the wiring (presumably not seeing any signs of water ingress or corrosion at either end of cable?)

Do not open the ECU, that's not what I meant. I meant has any pin contact got visible corrosion or wetness, which you have answered. Just on my way to a christmas party, can't help more today.

It does look like it may be an intermittent problem, possibly a bad/dirty connection? Any sign of fluid having got into either sensor or ECU connector housings?