Breezy_Pete

Or maybe 1K0145838P?

May be able to read a part number off it? Possibly 1T0145790B?

I doubt you'll find any such thing, unfortunately. The ABS sensor 'looks' at magnetic patches on the inner face of the wheel bearing, not at anything on the driveshaft.

Yes, I think that's most likely of all the possibilities. Or perhaps just the needle put back in the wrong position after dis-assembly of the cluster?? It could also be bad information from the crank sensor, but I think that would cause other starting or running problems. VCDS or VCDS Lite could be used to tell you what rpm the engine ECU is actually outputting to the cluster.

Green connector apparently lives in position A of this image: I think that matches with an empty position in the above from the Golf video. Different engine in the Golf maybe?

So you think the engine really is running that slowly? Cos that's the only way the pedal can be involved.

No warning lights or fault codes? Rev counter is normally displaying what the engine ECU calculates from the information coming from the crank sensor. You could read what the ECU is seeing with VCDS or similar and compare that to the needle position. Could be one of 3 things: Engine really turning very slowly (unlikely I think). Crank sensor giving bad output at those times (see what VCDS reads). Dial displaying the info incorrectly.

Oh, OK, sounds like the wire rope or clips of the mechanicals of the window are that problem. Listen for a click from the relay within the passenger motor module if you try to raise or lower it. That would confirm that the electrics are trying to move the glass, but can't.

Have you checked the fuse for pass window? (And checked that it is in correct position?)

Oh, then check fuse 50.

Try fuse 50. Wait, no, I think it would only be that if the car doesn't have start/stop. I assume yours does?

Suffix AJ does seem to be compatible judging by both appearing on this page: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/1k2721503aj-accelerator-pedal-skoda-45060.html But the real problem might be a damaged wire or bad contact, not necessarily the pedal electrical part itself.

I don't know exactly what this fault code represents in terms of function. Just guessing that high/full speed may be affected as this would be least obvious in normal use. How did you test full and low speed, and when?

The connector I mentioned has only 10 positions for wires, and is green. I can't remember what location the circuits suggested, but I think close to the ECU. Because there are only 10 positions, and the wires are quite bright colours, I think it will be easy to see which are the correct ones. My understanding is that there will be one wire of each colour going from ECU to green connector and then a continuation of each from the mating half of the green connector onward to the fan control module. I will try to find additional info and images tomorrow. Since the fault code refers to "fan control 2" I think it will relate to full speed, not low speed, so probably very rarely, if ever, needed.

The scuttle connector is a green 10-way. Pin 6 carries a yellow wire from ECU pin 77 to fan control module pin 11 (of 14-way). I think this one is probably low speed command. Pin 7 carries a yellow/red wire originating at ECU pin 79 and going to fan control module pin 7. This is the one I suspect may have a problem. If it were mine I would check that yellow/red visually and then electrically for short and open circuit.

I had a look at wiring diagrams, and on AVU with the basic A/C there are two command wires from engine ECU to fan control module. There's a connector in the scuttle area where these pass through. I suspect one of these wires, or its connections (which commands full speed fan activity) may have a problem. Details with wire colours and pin numbers at each point to follow when I get a chance.

Ignore. You'll hear it if any leaks get bad enough.

No worries. It's tempting to look at the letter suffixes of each of the 2Q0 parts and conclude that they're all supersessions of one another, but looking at each in detail, no such relationship is shown. Tend to agree with John though, doesn't seem super-critical for the odd wheel change.

Five (!) different part numbers appear when I look up, including some date ranges; three of them greyed out as inappropriate for your vehicle. The one that's left is an odd-looking part number starting 658, and is currently £52 retail inc VAT at Skoda dealer parts counter.

No idea, I guess it may vary with engine size (weight) or something. If you message me your VIN I could see if that can filter out the incorrect one on the parts site I use.

No problem. By navigating up and down the menu tree on that site you could look up any other parts in future.

No, that will be different pipe diameters throughout. Slight leaks, and corrosion on outer skin of back box are simply not worth attention. Most parts that you might replace with will probably fail sooner than what you have.

"I let it go in idle for 10 min" It is not clear what you mean here. Did you leave the car idling (running)? And then checked the oil level while still running. Or you let it sit running/idling for 10 minutes, then switched off then checked? Whenever you check, the engine must be off. Also - very important - when you first pull the dipstick out you must ignore the level shown. Wipe it clean then re-insert to get a true reading.

There are some petrol engines without throttle bodies actually. I remember being very doubtful when a young pal of mine told me he'd failed to find one in a petrol BMW he'd been looking at, several years back. Google confirms:

What problem are you trying to solve? Can you read what fault code or codes are causing the glow plug light?