Breezy_Pete

Sounds like a kettlefull of ipse dixit. How much do you know about those requirements, really?

MPG and Cost Calculator and Tracker - Spritmonitor.de

It's not beyond the wit of mankind to produce waterproof enclosures with venting. Random example: IP68 WATERPROOF ENCLOSURE with VENTILATION PLUG - WGV series | PRODUCTS | TAKACHI - Manufacturer of electronics enclosures and industrial enclosures (takachi-enclosure.com)

Doing this will also inhibit the start/stop function I think, but I guess you maybe don't care about that either?

One thing you could try, to prove that the alternator voltage is unrelated, is to disconnect the battery monitor control unit connection at the battery negative post. One of the wires (violet/white, LIN) tells the alternator what is required of it, and if that is disconnected, the alternator should revert to a constant voltage output. See what, if anything changes when you try this. I think that may fix the flickering headlights, which could be a consequence of the alternator trying to keep a particular output voltage whilst the engine rpm is fluctuating in an uncontrolled way.

Probably a broken wire or wires in the passenger front door wiring bellows, between A-pillar and door.

Variable output voltage from the alternator is a normal situation with charging systems for EFB/AGM batteries in recent VW group cars, this isn't the problem. This sounds like the source of the trouble. Your engine was designed to work with both of these systems. If the remapped engine is not working well, you should probably return it to the place that remapped the ECU and ask them to fix their mapping. It's also illegal to remove these systems, but I expect you already new that.

Only surprising if you don't realise that conforming to the correct 50n 00 rating automatically means the oil has suitable cold/warm viscosities. These may vary by a little but as long as the 50n 00 is suitable for your engine and service regime, all will be well.

See if this helps at all, seems a bit vague on the tool and what you do with it.

Have you tried clouting the corner of the door closest to the lock while pressing unlock button?

No, a 'refurbed looms exchange system' was more where I'm heading.

Whole loom or repair kit?Please message me if the former, I'm after a scrap loom.

Unplug the electrical connector from the fuel pressure sensor and see if there's any fuel inside the connector. That might be a giveaway for a failing sensor.

It's a distinct possibility, but always best to gather evidence rather than making guesses.

If you scroll down this page, the included screws are described individually. You may be able to figure out which it is. VAG 3G5898803 1 set securing bolts Audi, Seat, Škoda and VW genuine OEM part kit (oemwolf.com)

Check cam correlation via covers on gearbox end of cam carrier. Slots in ends of cams must be parallel to one another and parallel to head gasket when cylinder 1 is at TDC.

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Pity, but looks like these guys have a couple: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334979745032

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Parts catalogue shows all three aluminium pipes plus a few other bits as a single replacement entity, 03G 130 308 N at £156 + VAT in UK, so I would imagine you would prefer to find a secondhand single pipe in a scrapyard? I know that I would. No part number shown for just the coolant pipe (other two are fuel). Image of the assy here: Fuel Line Škoda 03G130308N (skoda-parts.com)

Car and engine details? VIN would be best.

Should be 5Q0 598 611, assuming you mean the bearing/hub assy, not the stub axle. Should get the bolt and cap included in that part number.

Might just be the lighting or angle of the photo but am I seeing broken wires in the last pic, right where they come out of connector?

Original Mini was my first car. Much less cared-for than yours.

Yes, but look again at my post from an hour ago. There's close up pics and instructions.