Breezy_Pete

Timing case sealant: D 174 003 A2 Sump sealant: D 176 600 A1 Cam carrier sealant D 154 103 A1 F knows why they're all different. That is one sad exhaust valve! Were the other two similar but not so bad?

Ah, I misread, fair play. Sealant numbers in a bit...

I can give you the OE part numbers for the various sealants which will allow cross-reference to aftermarket if you like? What torque plus angle are you aiming to do the crank bolt to? Spec changed at some point, if you follow the later suggestion with a reused bolt, it would be a very bold move.

It's body colour, which in this case is blue.

Engine ECU pin number for cruise on your car is #69.

Can you post (or message if you prefer) your VIN so I can check on this for you?

Probably driver's side motor module, message me about a repair or exchange unit if you like.

Just connect the negative charger clip onto the bare metal crimp connection visible here:

Are the front sidelights working?

A brief look at wiring diagrams suggests that fuse 23 is only interior lighting, inc glovebox and boot light. Where have you seen reference to tail lights being on it?

I think this must be a 16-valve AUB code petrol engine, assuming the 100kW in profile is meant to be 100bhp. The 1.4s with MPI on the back of them don't have an EGR valve if I remember right. Did you adapt the engine ECU to the new EGR valve after fitting? May be worth a try if you didn't, but I think excessive EGR flow is a common fault on these and not often really the valve at fault.

The 1K0 part number you mentioned for the motor agrees with what your VIN suggested.

Might be worth screenshotting some of the pics here for reference https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115590692033

Let us know how you get on, best of luck.

Price?

@Gerrycan I believe if you don't have start/stop or an AGM/EFB battery then you will have a fixed-voltage alternator which can do nothing with respect to regenerative braking.

The 1K2820304B number is the whole intake duct I think, including motor and the bits to the left and right of motor, under label 12 in the diagram. £348+ VAT new from Skoda, doubt you want to go there!

Seems to be 1 character missing, that's only 16.

Fling the VIN number my way and I may well be able to look it up for you.

@Crasher is probably the most knowledgeable on here about faults with CAYC's, but he's a busy professional mechanic so may or may not contribute.

See edit, 20 AWG is 0.5mm squared according to first Google result I found, not sure why I thought 24.

They'll be 0.5mm squared cross sectional area or thinner, so 20 AWG will be a sensible size to graft in, if that's equivalent. Make sure you go far enough to find clean uncorroded copper in each direction.

There's just one wire that connects driver's side and passenger side window motors on the facelift cars. A LIN bus data connection which is grey/white all the way, within each door loom, and from one side of car to the other in the cabin loom to each A-pillar connector. Here's the driver's side wiring, showing the permanent and ignition switched 12V feeds which would be good to measure at the motor connectors, both relative to the main thick brown earth wire.

Alternator exciter (blue) wire may have got broken during gearbox removal/refit, that would cause no battery light with ignition. There's a connector pair on a bracket near starter that will have been unplugged. May even just need reconnecting, if it got missed on reassembly. Battery may not have been getting much charge as a result, which could be relevant.

Do you know when your car was built? Profile says 2005, but you're saying 2004? Is it pre or post-facelift? If it's a facelift car, did your fuse check include fuse 11? Do the windows open/close if you turn and hold the key turned in the driver's door lock? Does the battery light come on with ignition?