Breezy_Pete

How odd. Thanks.

Oh, OK; then the engine identification at the top of the printout is wrong. AZQ engine wasn't fitted after the end of 2004 I believe. Limits will still be wildly exceeded even when that is corrected though, I expect.

I'd be surprised if it was possible for an active regen to be initiated with a cold engine.

This is the thing to investigate before anything else. Compression test may be revealing. When were the spark plugs last looked at or replaced? Flexi is after both oxygen sensors so I think I agree that won't be causing trouble, apart from noise. Ideally this would have been in the Mk1 Fabia section, but it's not the end of the world that it's here.

Sounds easy until you realise that that means timing cover and chain has to come off, which means sump off too. PITA, having done one. Never again. Even getting the crank locking tool in in place of the crank sensor can be a right faff, as the alloy oxidises and closes up the hole around it. It being 6 years younger than the one I worked on will help in that regard though, I hope.

Might be worth seeing what whole engines you can find at reasonable prices, if you can DIY fit. They're not very 'take-apart-and-rebuild' friendly these little things, lots of sealant gaskets and other sources of grief.

Fair enough, I just had the impression you two had decided it's definitely an immo problem, and were dismissing any other investigation as pointless. Thing, is, with immo trouble, the car usually starts then cuts out, with an amber warning light (key). This isn't what the OP is telling us, it's a crank-no-start situation (without easy-start), as I've read it? The warning light is shown as being just below the resting (0) position of the speedo needle, side view of car with key.

Item 4? LLLParts Genuine Skoda retail price is eye-widening.

Front brake PR code is rarely if ever on the sticker. Measure, or message me with VIN.

Relay position numbers are all I've been referring to. The numbers on the ends of the relays aren't mentioned in the circuits. Sockets should be marked with numbering. What positions are there relays present on your car? Yes, thick wires to fuel pump are power (blue/white) from relay and ground (brown/violet). Others are for the level gauge.

Can't remember if you've said you hear fuel pump run at ignition on? If not, see if you can get it to run by shorting terminals 2(30) and 8(87) of the fuel pump relay socket.

Fuse 3, 10 Amps rated is necessary for the ECU relay to do its thang. Another one to check. @sepulchravea lightning strike isn't required to cause electrical faults in Skodas, a simple broken or shorted wire is just as capable, and overwhelmingly more likely. Mk1 or Mk2 Fabias with no wiring issues at all are probably extremely rare beasts.

Fuses are often shared by multiple circuits, especially when supplying low current items like relay coils. Please check the ones I've mentioned, it all helps to narrow down why things may not be working.

It could easily remain running after engine off for a short while (mediated by radiator thermoswitch being above its lower threshold temp), but I doubt it can start up after ignition off. Not sure if I have wiring info for your car. You are worrying unnecessarily.

Fuse allocations and values vary with options and engine types, as do relays. Your car does not appear to have the 'open driver's door, fuel pump spins up' feature. Sorry to drip feed, but I'm tired and the engine-specific wiring alone for your car runs to 15 pages, and you have to dodge back and forth between pages to trace some connections. CHFA engine, car built 02/08/2010. 👍

Also check Fuse 16, 5 amp (fuel pump relay coil feed) . Fuel pump relay is in position 7 of the relay panel, ECU relay in position 13. Not easy to say what others there should be on your car.

Check that you have a 10 amp fuse in position 29 and that it is intact. (Injector power)

The VIN is visible at the base of the windscreen, from the outside. I'm not going to spend my time finding wiring info until I have a positive identification of the engine type, and build date of car, which I can definitively get from the VIN.

Could be an OK part judging by this page: Control unit for petrol engine Skoda Fabia 5J 03D906023M | oemVWshop.com In the description area it lists the right (44kW) engine. If that's what you actually have! The CPGA written on it is just coincidentally similar to an engine code, I think, and misleading us.

Please supply vehicle VIN, in private message if preferred. That may help; as 03D906023M doesn't appear as a current part number for 2010 Fabia in the parts programme I'm looking at. At least with VIN we can confirm engine code and probably the ECU part number it was built with, and any superseding part numbers. Can you retrieve the old ECU? They are usually extremely reliable so it probably wasn't at fault.

What's the part number on the ECU (photo?) Is it identical to the original ECU? I wouldn't expect an ECU for a CGPA engine to be interchangeable with one for a CHFA.

Please supply engine code or VIN. There are two different Mk2 Fabia 1.2 HTP engines, 6-valve 60PS and 12-valve 70PS; need to know which for wiring info to be useful.

It looks like you have a black/blue wire coming from pin 1 (L) at the alternator, becoming blue at either a 2-pin or 4-pin connector pair (with/without A/C fitted) and finishing at pin 4 of a black 8-way connector of the onboard power supply control unit in cabin. Then there's a black/brown/red tri-colour cable from pin 2 (DFM) of alternator connector, becoming blue/white at the 2 or 4 pin connector and going to pin 64 of the 94-way engine ECU connector (on a different page, box 93 tells you where to go).

BLS is enough. I will research the wiring info soon.

Unplug the 2-way connector from the alternator and measure the voltage on each wire with ignition switched on. That should quickly establish if either is broken.