Breezy_Pete

From an RAC webpage (Crit'Air clean air stickers - need to know for driving in France | RAC Drive) "The system was introduced by the French government as a way to reduce harmful vehicle emissions in areas where air quality is poorest, such as larger towns and cities. [My underlining] So it's about emissions that are harmful to humans who breathe them in densely populated areas. CO2 related to quantity of fuel used is a completely different problem.

You are probably thinking that climate change (CO2) emissions and urban air quality emissions are the same thing. They aren't. All internal combustion engines produce about the same amount of CO2 as each other, per litre of fuel burnt. That's the climate change issue. Very big differences exist between cars/engines as to how much NOx and particulates they produce. That's the urban air quality issue. Not really related to each other.

Looks similar to me, but not easy to desolder and clear the holes. Needs a bit of skill and suitable equipment. Photos of relay contacts:

No and no. Relay type on older BCMs is written in that thread too. I would not fit a relay that had been used before, cost is only a few Euro for new relay.

Relay replacement possible as an alternative to BCM replacement, see here: Wiper relay replacement - Skoda Fabia Guides - BRISKODA The relay part number for the suffix-F version in mk2 Fabia is Omron G8NW-2U 12V If you cut open the relay, you tend to find one set of contacts that has badly burnt. I did one yesterday as it happens, will try to photograph relay damage.

Printed all along the rigid bits 6Q2...

Worth checking the fans too, even though you've probably found the coolant loss problem. If original there's a strong chance the low speed functions are 'history'.

Makes a nice change. Any old replacement motor should be fine, it's not a taxing application. Looking at your pics now that I'm on a big screen, I'd be surprised if the problem actually wasn't the arrowed connection (or lack of).

Any sign of damage to the solenoid wire? They often start to fail near the cable entry of the connector.

Radiator thermoswitch. Not sure on your wiring, but if you have thickish wires, red to red/white should bring both fans on at low speed. Red to red/yellow should be full speed, but probably needs ignition to be on.

06H 103 495 AJ, replaced 06H 103 495 AD On 1st Jan 2017.

Message me with VIN.

There are some in the box sections on the underside that drain the areas either side under the brake servo and opposite under ECU, but not a threat to interior dryness even if all blocked up.

There have been a series of similar reports in various subforums here on cars built in the last few years. Very common for them to degrade fast, you'll see pictures of some with even more damage. The surface falling off is particularly stark. Here's a particularly bad one, from the Rapid subforum 😲

Yeah, looks like the battery is thoroughly in the way, unless that whole fusebox can lift up, which sounds unlikely.

I believe the connectors are all keyed so that they'll only fit back in their correct spots. 👍

I'll send you a PM in a sec, with address details etc.

I'd be happy to. Pretty sure I have some suitable relays already. If you posted it before last collection today, I'd get it tomorrow with a bit of luck. I could send back on Monday and you'd have it back Tuesday? £25?

Can you do without the car for a few days? You could post the BCM to me to fix if so. Having said that, engine code shouldn't matter very much, you just need to match the full part number including the suffix letter. Probably 6Q1937049C? the advantage of fixing yours is that the soft coding will be right, without any VCDS action, which might or might not be needed with another unit.

I think I'd expect that to fail MOT on this, or possibly (ii) below it: What I would say is, don't whatever you do buy genuine replacement discs from Skoda, they appear to be of rubbish quality. Find aftermarket discs instead.

I'd feel the same. There must be something else wrong. Not sure I've seen mention of it failing though, for the 1.5 engines.

Frustrating, for sure. Are there any other dealerships near enough to be worth calling to see if they can fit you in sooner? It doesn't look like a time-consuming replacement job. Or you could just order the part and DIY fit at your convenience, in the UK it appears to be £63.55 + VAT which includes the seal, for the 05E103495AH shown in your video, which appears to be the latest revision (formerly 05E103495T until 1st April 2022).

Yet, that fits with the diaphragm having failed again. I guess keep asking for warranty replacements until they find out why they are failing?

When you block the vent on the PCV I guess you feel suction on your fingertip?

Is it using any oil?