Breezy_Pete
Sponsor
-
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by Breezy_Pete
-
I thought the EML was (only) yellow? Sure it wasn't the light under the coolant temperature gauge? Could just be a cracked solder joint on the instrument cluster circuitboard, giving a false low coolant warning?
-
Oh, and in case you're wondering if it's worth changing the fuel pump to get a new filter, Skoda want £254 + VAT for that part number! 😲
-
Here's your answer: For completeness, though now irrelevant I think, the charcoal canister version for your car, which has PR-code 1E1 as well as 1A2 shown in screenshot, is the 6R0201797 part number mentioned previously
-
Will see what I can tell you via the VIN shortly.
-
Go here and download the fourth-from-last pdf after clicking 'download this file' .
-
ETKA only lists parts that are available to buy as spare parts. I think in a lot of cases, from factory the rear exhaust and next section are a continuous length, but this can't be fitted with rear beam in place, so fitting a replacement rear box involves cutting and sleeve jointing, and a different part number... See 7th and other pics here for evidence of the rear box outer skin idea: Rear silencer / Muffler / Exhaust Seat Ibiza from 2013 to 2015 6R0253611aa 222421 - NORSIDER
-
No, both of your first two statements are quite wrong.
-
New style charging systems for AGM and EFB batteries don't necessarily put out the (constant) voltages that old style ones do. I would say at 5 years old the battery is much more likely to be the problem, and at the prices you're talking for the alt replacement, imagine how gutted you'd be if you changed that and found no change to the situation.
-
Googling your part number suggests that it may actually be the outer skin of the rear exhaust silencer.
-
-
There you go. If confirmed, I can probably guide you towards which wires to swap to get the switches working the right windows, and probably the up/down thing too. Is it just the driver's side window where up/down is reversed? Edit2: Is it actually a facelift car? If not, you'll have the earlier window motor version, with three connectors rather than two. Same probably applies with the last line of part number label though, but I'm not as familiar with those.
-
Even different options will lead to fuse fitment differences. Message me with your VIN and I'll reply with the most appropriate list I can find.
-
Largely irrelevant, it's differences between the cylinders that matter. Workshop manual gives this guidance though:
-
Typically you would need to replace exhaust valves. Big job. Do the test before planning anything though.Do a compression test. Be sad if cylinder 1 result is significantly lower than 2 & 3.That's not a fuel filter, that's the carbon canister, part of the EVAP system for reducing fuel vapour release. The only* part number for it that I can see listed as a spare part for a 2018 Fabia is 6C0201801A (typo above, presumably) @ £67.55 + VAT, but don't buy it if you think it will filter your liquid fuel, cos I'm pretty sure it won't. Follow the feed pipe all the way back from the fuel rail on the engine and see if it goes there. *Edit, just found another - 6R0201797 (£87.85 + VAT) for a different variant of petrol fuel system. If you tell me the car's VIN I can tell you which ETKA says yours should have.Doesn't need pairing, as such, just the relevant options coding in to match what the current one has. The stuff in this list, your options may not coincide with the marked up ones. Be sure to match the whole part number of the unit including suffix letter.
The pad part number starting JZW as stated by the OP a few posts earlier indicates exactly this 'ECO' variety. As in economy rather than ecology, I think.Also for the window motor. Should be quick and easy for someone with experience to find such a broken wire. Access is tight to repair it (unless door is fully removed, which is remarkably easy), but doable if you're not too fussy about the cosmetics of it (which won't be seen anyway under the rubber bellows). It's an inevitability that a mk2 Fabia will have loom breakage of some or other wires in this location if it lives long enough, especially in driver's side where the door tends to be opened more frequently than others.Others with similar engined Octys may confirm/deny the fuel pump activation. My limited experience and viewing of circuits suggests it's a petrol engine thing, and works with driver's door opening, not unlocking. @J.R. I was expecting either 0V, possibly indicating a busted wire, or it being pulled up to 12V within the ECU when dormant. The inbetween voltage makes me unsure and suggest the continuity test.Check fuse #11 (7.5 Amp rated); often overlooked. If that is intact, also check that with ignition switched on, the feed from it gets to the 16 way connector at driver's side window motor, pin no.6, a black wire with blue stripe. Convenience mode can work even if this feed is broken. I'd guess with some confidence that this wire is broken between A-pillar and driver's door, in the bellows section where the wires flex.All engines will have a joiner there, but different (bigger) sizes for the diesels and 2.0 petrol I think.
Important Information
Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.