Breezy_Pete

Not one of the semi-circle parts, the part that pulls in from behind the bearing to push it out. The smaller of the two black bits in the middle of the box.

Oh, well done! I think some of the bearing removal tools have a flat on them to allow it to stay in place, does yours?

Is there a part number on it? Don't see it listed as available separately to the rest of the drawer, but someone may have listed one on ebay? Otherwise a scrapyard is probably the best bet.

It's OK to leave it in gear as long as you pick a gear that will result in the engine rotating in its normal direction if the car moves downhill. So forward gear if facing nose-down, reverse gear if pointing uphill. Engine compression with movement will stop it just as well. Probably better to park with front wheels angled such that the kerb will stop it instead though. And yes, make the handbrake work properly. Bet that was a scary bill?

A longish layoff also increases the risk of chain slip, as oil can drain out of the tensioner.

It's a fairly quick and easy job to inspect the valves with a borescope through the spark-plug holes. That would allow more accurate quotes for chain replacement versus chain replacement plus headwork to be made. Is it the 60bhp or 70bhp version of the 1.2 HTP? Valve damage is almost inevitable if the latter has a chain slip, I think. Either way it will be a lot of labour hours, so nastily expensive. Do you park on a slope regularly, by any chance? If so do you leave it in a gear that would cause the engine to rotate backwards if the handbrake allowed some movement?

Probably didn't have anything as big as the 24mm required in metric, I'll guess.

Not sure when I last saw a car with an actual radiator cap.

Google is right.

2. That's too high a voltage for an AGM/EFB battery that's fully charged. That's why everything had to change for these types.

I didn't even notice that aspect, but yes, they are. If the last 8 digits of your VIN are 43985212 or a higher number you'll find rivets instead of DIY-friendly M6 screws.

A youtube video link popped up in my suggestions this morning, and I think it shows a couple of things worth highlighting. Here's the link: https://youtu.be/lJv7MSWNUUY I took a screenshot at one point, as it's the clearest illustration of the primary leak path that I've ever seen. Unfortunately, although he seals all the way around the perimeter, he leaves in place the black plastic lock bracket which was the cause of the problem. Here's the screenshot showing super-clearly the water witness marks running down from where that plastic bracket is attached: At about 8 mins he refits the panel with this bracket still uselessly in place, ready to resume channeling water onto the carrier. It broke off the lock, you may as well completely remove it and block the three plastic rivet holes with waterproof tape! That way the water dripping down there will drop harmlessly straight to the drain holes at the bottom of the door, instead of being directed onto the panel. The only purpose of that bracket is so you can remove or install the door lock with the carrier panel if you need/want to. Once it's broken off the lock it's 100% liability, no point in having it there.

Looking at this image from the owners manual. I think maybe an oil pressure warning? Disconnect and examine the oil pressure switch connector (next to the EGR valve) for oiliness and the wire coming from it for damage if there's no oil around.

I thought the EML was (only) yellow? Sure it wasn't the light under the coolant temperature gauge? Could just be a cracked solder joint on the instrument cluster circuitboard, giving a false low coolant warning?

Oh, and in case you're wondering if it's worth changing the fuel pump to get a new filter, Skoda want £254 + VAT for that part number! 😲

Here's your answer: For completeness, though now irrelevant I think, the charcoal canister version for your car, which has PR-code 1E1 as well as 1A2 shown in screenshot, is the 6R0201797 part number mentioned previously

Will see what I can tell you via the VIN shortly.

Go here and download the fourth-from-last pdf after clicking 'download this file' .

ETKA only lists parts that are available to buy as spare parts. I think in a lot of cases, from factory the rear exhaust and next section are a continuous length, but this can't be fitted with rear beam in place, so fitting a replacement rear box involves cutting and sleeve jointing, and a different part number... See 7th and other pics here for evidence of the rear box outer skin idea: Rear silencer / Muffler / Exhaust Seat Ibiza from 2013 to 2015 6R0253611aa 222421 - NORSIDER

No, both of your first two statements are quite wrong.

New style charging systems for AGM and EFB batteries don't necessarily put out the (constant) voltages that old style ones do. I would say at 5 years old the battery is much more likely to be the problem, and at the prices you're talking for the alt replacement, imagine how gutted you'd be if you changed that and found no change to the situation.

Googling your part number suggests that it may actually be the outer skin of the rear exhaust silencer.

Yep, that figures.

There you go. If confirmed, I can probably guide you towards which wires to swap to get the switches working the right windows, and probably the up/down thing too. Is it just the driver's side window where up/down is reversed? Edit2: Is it actually a facelift car? If not, you'll have the earlier window motor version, with three connectors rather than two. Same probably applies with the last line of part number label though, but I'm not as familiar with those.

Even different options will lead to fuse fitment differences. Message me with your VIN and I'll reply with the most appropriate list I can find.