Breezy_Pete

Not that hard if you know what to look for. 👍 G34 and L50 are the pertinent PR codes, those together with the purple + 3 pink paint blobs and you have 1J0 411 105 AN.

This diagram is close to what you have @kareems, but not exactly right, as the wiring diagram suggest you have a G65 pressure sensor instead of the F129 pressure switch, and in that case it is mounted after the condenser, rather than before in the refrigerant circuit. Pressure is pressure though. There's a 'lost in translation' between the LP/HP key at the top and the marking in the diagram, which is ND (niedrig druck)/HD (hoch druck) instead. Low and high pressure respectively. Gas to liquid transition happens in the condenser as I understand it. From document D3E801B9571-Air_conditioning_system_with_refrigerant_R134a

PM one of the mods to ask for a clean-up/removal of irrelevant stuff. 👍

What's an LP fan? The OP has two radiator fans, both twin speed, wired in parallel according to the circuits.

Cabin fuse No.16 (10 Amps) seems relevant for your engine code. I think where I wrote No.10 in previous post was an error, will correct now.

What was the problem?

On models I'm more familiar with, I think 9 bar/130psi for low speed, from memory. Have you checked cabin fuse 10? No.16? What is your engine code please? there are differences in wiring diagrams for different engines.

What pressure are you seeing reported by sensor G65? I suspect that with only air in the system the pressure will not reach the necessary threshold to trigger fan operation.

Hi, not sure what you're searching, but my info suggests you need 036133062M. This one seems potentially like a great bargain https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256100509572 and seems to be plenty of others. Fair play for trying to eliminate other stuff first though. 🙂

Try a secondhand throttle body with exactly the same part number that's on yours, I reckon.

Cabin fuse 52 supplies all the coilpacks, a 15A blade fuse. Fuse 35 is injectors' supply, 10A rated Fuse 56 is an ignition switched feed to the engine ECU, 20A rated. May as well check all of them.

Ah, sorry, hadn't looked there. PM received now.

I'm not seeing a message from you in my PM inbox?

There's a 'terminal 15 relay' in some versions of the circuits that could well be involved. With VIN supplied I should be able to work out next steps to investigate. Bit late for me to be thinking/looking at circuits today, should find time in the morning.

Looks identical to mk1, at first glance. We'll done and thanks for posting back with pics.

The connectors are relatively easy to de-pin I think, there's a bit that slides off sideways once you've defeated the latch. Can't remember just now which of the arrowed tabs is the one (must be pink arrow, other one is the main connector latch I guess?): Once that's off, you have access to push the little ramp feature on the crimp insert to de-latch it for removal out in the direction of the wire.

Black/blue might be the one affecting windows, does it go into the blue connector, pin 2? If that is the problem, you may find that starting with car locked if you hold the key turned clockwise in the drivers door, as if to unlock without the remote fob button, the C/L should unlock everything and both front windows should start to descend, for as long as you hold the key fully clockwise.

Which wire is busted completely (colour of wire and connector colour, please), and which one very nearly? In my experience, the ones with insulation cracked won't be a problem unless the rubber boot isn't sealing well to the bodywork, and moisture is getting into the area. Does the revealed copper still look shiny and coppery? If so just cover with insulating tape, or preferably self-amalgamating tape. Sounds like 1 repair wire might be all that's needed, they are double ended yellow wires with a crimp insert at each end, part number in previous post. I may have one too. 000979009E Repair Wire Brand New | eBay

The single plugs are mk2 Fabia ones, ebay sellers overgeneralising as usual. The part numbers of the door loom plugs are as follows not sure if any kits available as they're much less breakage prone than the mk2 version and similar arrangements on other models: 6Q0 972 704 4-pin black 6Q0 972 706 6-pin blue 6Q0 972 706A 6-pin brown 6Q0 972 706B 6-pin white All available to buy from dealers, but will come without the crimp inserts or wires. May be better off de-pinning your originals, and soldering new short wires to the crimped area, then joining (I would solder and heatshrink sleeve) to existing loom beyond current breakages. Repair wires are available to suit, but there's three different sizes, most of them are covered by 000 979 009E (all except the black 4-way connector). How many wires are actually busted? What problems are you experiencing? By the way, it's really easy to completely remove the door, massively improving access, obviously. Once loom plugs are out, you just undo the check-strap M8(?) XZN, and two 13mm fasteners in the hinges and it just lifts off. Assistance suggested to take weight while removing and refitting.

Octy2 May 2011> diagram, pin numbers at 5-way connector looks like the only significant difference to the diagram in the link I posted earlier. See last comment from me in that linked post for my best guess at how the signalling/control works. If you could confirm, that would be awesome. (Assistant operating stalks and a voltmeter at rear wiper will be required).

I suspect the 'swerved' was an auto-correct from an intended 'answered'?

See this thread, some of wire colours and pin numbers at BCM may differ between Yeti and Octy2, but the gist is the same. Will check Octy wiring later to confirm. No CAN node involved. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511807-2010-yeti-rear-wiper/

Take some photos of the sealing that has been done if you have the door cards off; going a long way up the rear edges is more important than most people realise. See image below for explanation. You don't have to remove the carriers to do a good job, it can go on with the thing still in place, just need to do a really good clean-up of the surfaces with isopropyl alcohol or similar to make sure the Plumber's gold has best chance of adhesion.

Well done for getting the refund, and good news that the leak has been found. The only further caution I would offer is that the first leak found isn't necessary the only leak. Did Colin continue looking around after that condenser o-ring leak discovery?

It'll mostly be the door carrier seals leaking, as per the link I gave you on Wednesday last week. The water slips under the carpet in the rear footwells and soaks the sound insulation underneath.