Breezy_Pete

Might be easier to just ask them what part number they sold to you, if you didn't keep the receipt?

I've been trying to ask him the same thing in a PM conversation. It was new from Skoda apparently, but I haven't had any confirmation from him of what part number was supplied. Catalogue says his original was 5J0971120GK, which was dropped in September 2013 and replaced by 5J0971120HG. Not sure what the problem is in saying what he has been supplied with?

Realistically, it's likely to outlive our ownership of the car, so not worried about reliability; and I can always pop the fixed pulley back on. I'll have to see if I can detect anything different in driving feel. Anyone got same engine with a freewheel pulley on it now? Can't recall much if any discussion of them except on the diesels.

Anyone changed from one type to the other on the same car? I recently discovered that our AZQ engined 1.2/12-valve Fabia is supposed to have a freewheeling alt pulley. (According to partslink24, when VIN filtering results). When we acquired it at approx 100k miles it didn't have such a thing. Wondering if I/we will notice any difference if/when I fit one? Got a Valeo branded one for not too much from ebay. Not seen it yet. Not really sure there's much point, but the experiment seemed interesting. 🤔

It'll be fine.

Perhaps they tried and failed or just failed.

Did the battery management system get told that a new battery had been fitted?

If the engine isn't running, the alternator will not be able to generate any power. 🙃

Google imaging the WHT version of those part numbers suggests it is a 10.9 grade, so yes.

Any holidays coming up when the car won't be used? I'd be happy to attempt repair by post on a no success no charge basis, and at a lot less than £100 if successful. On the mk1s there's a track that goes under a sticker on the back of the cluster that sometimes overheats and burns out, can't remember which LEDs that takes out but might well be these.

Check fuse 11, a 5 Amp one that may have blown and taken out mirror stuff if black/blue wire on pin 7 was busted and shorting to a brown one at any time. Don't think that would explain the windows though. Is it just the front windows that are leccy powered?

On such a critical application as this engine I'd be tempted to pay the extra fiver or whatever for genuine from dealership.

A replacement EGR complete with o-rings etc for £60 sounds like the easy solution, really.

Check under-bonnet fuse #22 (5 Amp) before you do anything else. That seems to supply just the clutch switch/position sensor, at first glance. If that's OK, you should get 12V at pin 5 of the connector at the pedal (red/blue wire), with ignition switched on with engine running. With pedal not pushed, that should conduct straight through to the white/red wire on pin 2, and onwards to engine ECU pin 43 of the 94-way connector. The brown wire on pin 1 needs to be connected to earth too, nothing will change if that's not intact. When clutch pedal is pressed that 12V feed should be interrupted and no longer be seen on the white/red wire.

I must admit that I hadn't considered that if the ECU doesn't see the anticipated MAF changes after demanding EGR flow that it might 'try harder' with the relevant proportional solenoid valve that is on t'other end of the vac hose that is blocked. Might be that valve you're hearing in the vac box on suspension turret. On the other hand, you'd think that max opening of that valve would just be a continuous energisation, which ought to be silent, just a dc 12V across valve coil. Maybe it's not that simple. Agree with sep about the unlikeliness of NOx testing getting backdated anywhere near as far as Euro4 stuff. If it happens at all. Would represent a big kit spend for the testing stations, I'd guess.

I haven't found my loom yet, but have remembered that I didn't do anything with CAN wiring, because the only things I connected were a KKL cable and the BSG (which is known in English as Onboard supply control unit, or in later cars BCM, body control module). K-line connection only, no CAN wires at all. No instrument cluster, nor engine ECU connected, I just wanted to be able to soft code the BSG/BCM off-vehicle, so that was all I needed. A Briskoda member called @hutchysrs50 was doing similar things to what you are at the time I was doing the above, so he may have more help to offer if he sees this tag. Not seen him on here for a while though.

I was meaning why some Karoqs with same engine as others Karoqs? Some had/have kangaroo trouble, some not.

Why some cars and not others @cri1410sti? Very small differences in initial cam angle setting when fitting original belt?

In terms of exhaust flow through the EGR valve, yes, exactly. What some folk believe, mistakenly in my opinion, is that if the flow is blocked only at the EGR entry point - whether by permanent valve closure or blanking - the hose feeding gases to that point is more likely to rupture and leak. Thus they like to insist on blanking the manifold end. The simple explanation for such cases of flexible exhaust hose damage is disturbance and possible unsympathetic handling of old flex-couple metal hoses during EGR removal for cleaning or blanking of top end type operations.

Functionally, as long as the valve is seating well enough to seal the flow off when 'unpulled open', blanking won't reduce flow at all compared with just golf-teeing (not my idea btw). It seems that your vac blocking is causing a sufficient 'full time closure' as I'd expect. A covert blockage inside a connected hose may be necessary tor MOT. As will some method of preventing EML if you want easy passage through. Interestingly for you and most other mk1 diesel owners, maybe, the relevant section of the inspection manual 8.2.2.2 opacity suggests in my reading that if the car was first used before 01/07/2008, the tester needn't care about EML function/activation. Anyone who's tried opening one of these valves digitally (with fingers) will know how strong the closure spring is, and therefore why the vac diaphragm is so large, Exhaust gas pressures just aren't enough to push that valve open at all if the diaphragm is inactive, in my opinion. If they could, the valve position wouldn't be controllable in normal service. Blanking kits are more for people who want to 'buy (or maybe sell?) a solution' rather than think one through. Your ECU and vacuum system will not be aware of any difference relating to the vacuum actuation, just the lack of results in terms of absence of MAF-measured fresh air flow reduction when EGR flow has been demanded, so fault light. All of the above intended to be factual rather than an encouragement to break the UK law by tampering with emissions related systems, MOT is not the only thing relevant here (although it is the front line). Construction and Use regs are the legal basis for 'don't tamper'.

search document by engine code for connections to ECU, and search "dash panel insert" for connections at cluster. i will help more tomorrow if necessary, watching a film now. 🙂

Tomorrow I will fin the wiring loom I made to connect bsg and cluster (but not ECU) and diagnostic socket/kkl obd pug

Download the wiring diagram, it will help.

Which pins are cluster CAN wires on at bsg?

I don't think so. Both images above show 3 = drive canl, 5=drive canh.