Breezy_Pete
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Everything posted by Breezy_Pete
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ro= red ge= yellow sw= black bl=blue br=brown They're from the German words Rot, Gelb, Schwartz, Blau and Braun.
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Can't remember if someone suggested it to me (likeliest), or I dreamt it up myself, but I'd been in denial about a headgasket problem on a Vauxhall Omega for some weeks at the time. Seeing a puddle of coolant sitting on cylinder 4's piston crown, and sampling it with a clean white bit of rag taped to a chopstick or similar was very clear-cut when that came out coolant-coloured.
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Don't think a TSI will have an EGR cooler, not sure. If it had, you could bypass it so coolant didn't go there. If I were you, I'd take all the sparkplugs out after an overnight 'sit' unused, and shine a torch down the hole of each where they've come out, looking for dampness/puddles of coolant on a piston crown. Free to try and very convincing if found.
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The instrument cluster is usually very easy to get out far enough to access the connectors. A mk2 owner will hopefully guide you to the exact method. Youtube may well have a video guide.
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What are the fault code numbers? If you message me with your VIN I can tell you what part number your accelerator pedal assy is.
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What year is the car? Not sure if it's true of all mk2s, but early ones at least have the input for the main beam warning light on pin 2 of the 32-way green connector of the instrument cluster. Check that there is 12V there (on the white wire, probing down from cable entry with everything connected, ideally) when headlights are on main beam, and if so, expect that the solder joint of the male connector to the circuit board has a dry joint.
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That's the safest strategy, but if the connector fits, I would imagine that one may work. It's nothing special, just a 4-wire binary oxygen sensor. Lots of people think the suffix is 'only a revision level' but it's often not that simple. For example, the front, 5/6-wire wideband sensor on your car is 036906262G. Clearly this wouldn't fit or work as a rear one.
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Skoda-parts.com doesn't have any hits for the 036906262F part number, suggesting it isn't factory fitment on any Skodas. I presume you have a suffix F one, or you've found one going cheaply on ebay or something?
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Is there a keyway difference, maybe, it's a different colour, right?
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This is still the correct part number (using the VIN helpfully put in your profile). The suffix -F part may be completely different in function and fitment.
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@26DIPP is that a display like the OP's or like @Jocko's above ^ Yes 117ma is about 100 too much. Can be a BCM fault, in my experience, if real. An update from the OP on the measurement after 30 mins of allowing to go to sleep would be good.
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On a mk2 Fabia, wire or wires broken in door hinge area, almost 100% certainty.
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Sounds a bit like the headlights may be set up for driving on the right? If you message me with your VIN I may be able to investigate that later.
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If you are feeling brave, you can drill a hole in the inside of door metalwork, to gain tool access to a Torx screw on the lock. When turned in the appropriate direction this should unlock it: 9N3 doorlocks | UK Volkswagen Forum, see John's post on Feb 14th.
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A healthy result is maybe 15mA in full sleep. If you have the deadlock LED flashing on driver's door, expect it to jump around by a few mA in sync with flashing.
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Only if there is a microswitch there J.R., which isn't there on Fabias without alarms, I believe, like ours.
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The first one, suffix C suits standard and sports bumpers, whatever they are. Suffix D one suits 'comfort bumpers', whatever they are! If you're lucky, you may see one of the PR codes 2JB, 2JD, 2JK or 2JX on the build options sticker in the boot. Only the last of those requires the suffix D part.
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Is there a microswitch on the bonnet catch? Probably only there if the car has an alarm factory fitted.
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Well you could take the lower dash trim panel out yourself and inspect the connection. You're probably better off doing that part anyway, an autospark may not know how. The guide for Evaporator temperature sensor replacement in the Fabia Guides section covers this panel's removal quite nicely. Probably something on Hatboy Harvey's YouTube channel too.
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It's all about making sure everything has gone to sleep before taking the measurements and making sure no circuits are woken up by the process of measuring. So, kidding the car that everything is closed and locked for at least 30 mins, whilst still having access to where you're measuring, and having the equipment already in circuit so nothing wakes stuff up again.
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The wire coming off pin 16 (correction from 10 previously, please ignore the ringed 10 on the image below) on connector XS6 of Onboard supply control unit splits off to all three nearside indicators, so either a bad connection here or the chip that supplies it on the circuit board inside it is dying.
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Almost certainly a strip fuse that's cracked then I think. No.4 in your wife's car I expect.
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Did the A/C work properly again between you getting the car back from initial repair and the engine coolant problem rearing its head? The evaporator and heater matrix would both have to be disconnected to replace the evaporator, I think, but they're entirely independent devices with respect to fluids and plumbing/hoses. Their story doesn't really add up, but given the number of re-installation errors, you probably wouldn't want to hear the full story!
