Breezy_Pete

See what VCDS says about the refrigerant pressure when the engine/car is stone cold (engine not running, just ignition on).

Keep an eye on ebay, or make your requirements known to a local scrapyard, I picked up a set of wheels plus good tyres (only 20% worn approx.) of this size from ebay a few years back for just over £100 delivered. Generally they're likely to be collection only, and a shade more than that, but you might get lucky with someone 'upgrading' to alloys who just wants rid. Put a wanted ad on here. Come to think of it, I've got some in my shed, though the tyres are all needing replacement. Not in mint condition either but could be very cheap! 😁

6J x 14 steel wheels are the factory fit for 185/60R14 tyres. Probably/definitely some alloy versions of 6J x 14 available too. Should be easy to find secondhand.

Yes and yes.

Check that radiator fan(s) are spinning up if you demand cold air with engine warm.

Combined fuel pump and vacuum pump 'tandem pump' I think. Yes, that's the fuel temp sensor, I reckon.

Pin number at BCM black 73-way connector is 38 for the heated mirror outputs, both sides, black/red wire that goes to the right (UK) driver's side one, black wire going to UK pass side. The output to the "Output for warning light for SAFE function of central locking" is on pin 58 of same BCM connector, a white/violet wire. Interestingly... They go through the 28-way at the right A-pillar on adjacent pins, 13 and 14. I wonder if you've got a bent pin in there or some moisture ingress shorting the two pins together? Can be hard to see, but a phone camera on 'macro' can probably get a good shot with female connector removed.

Message me with your VIN.

That does sound like an odd one! I'll see what I can dig up for you this afternoon.

Is the fault one or both sides? Can find later for you; you've checked the A-pillar wiring, right?

1st thing to do after you've pulled over somewhere you can stop safely is check that all the oil is still in the engine, using the dipstick. 2nd thing is to undo the connector from the oil pressure switch and see if it looks like this: If you don't know where the oil pressure switch is on your engine, it's probably not a bad idea to find it, ahead of need. Typically the only sensor connection with a single wire. There's a diaphragm within these pressure switches, which is how it converts the pressure into mechanical movement and operates the electrical switch. When the diaphragm fails, the oil leaks through into the electrical switch part and on out to the inside of the electrical connector. I could see there was moistness where there should have been dryness before even unplugging the connector, but a steady dribble of oil after doing so. So much better than any other scenario that could have been behind these warnings. Cheap, quick fix with replacement switch.

Checked for broken wires in the bellows between each front door and A-pillar? Start with passenger side. Mk2 Fabias are brilliant at breaking these wires.

Yes the main engine earth connection (big fat wire, probably black) is often connected onto one of the two big fasteners that hold the starter motor in place. That cable needs to be present and not corroded at either end.

OK, nice quick answers, my favourite type. The starter solenoid appears to be driven directly from the ignition switch on your car, no relay involved. Have you been able to check that there is no damage to the starter solenoid cable in the vicinity of its connection to the starter motor. It's a thin red/black, single wire?

Does the car have start/stop? What type of gearbox? Manual?

It appears from this page (see low on left "Similar parts") that you can buy the 'core' of the pump without the whole housing, and it comes with the necessary gaskets. Might be a cheaper solution, IFF the problem isn't leakage caused by the housing itself distorting.

Isn't it a magnetic ring integrated into the wheel bearing/hub?

Message me with your VIN, I can check directly. The 1.2 12V came with 239mm OR 256mm discs and associated parts. There's a recent thread where this is discussed, including some nonsense, with pictures of the caliper markings for the 239mm FSII versions and FSIII caliper which would mean 256mm. Start at this post: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/512201-brake-pads-and-discs/?do=findComment&comment=5754388

Have a good look around the engine bay from under bonnet just in case you can see a connector dangling somewhere looking forlorn. Chances are you'll need to be able to look from beneath though. A helpful local tyre/exhaust place might be willing to pop it up in the air for you/them to have a quick look. Not sure how much undertray there may be obscuring the view on your car.

Possibly a connector not refitted properly or at all after the gearbox was put back. Who did the work? Local independent, national chain?

So call a Skoda dealer near you.

£11.02 + VAT from Skoda

1LB and 1LM are both PR codes for the FS2 caliper, 239mm disc set-up on mk1 Fabia. See here for a page from ETKA catalogue that's publicly accessible floating caliper brake; brake caliper housing; bra... - Fabia(FAB) [EUROPA 2007 year] (7zap.com)

Yep, that's the retail price, should be same anywhere in UK. They'll not have it on the shelf, so it may take a day or 3 to order in.

£6.65 + VAT from a Skoda dealer, bargain!