Breezy_Pete

1, 2, 3 left to right as viewed from front bumper looking into engine bay.

Check under-bonnet fuse 24 (5 Amp) and cabin fuse 6, also 5 Amp, both are supplies to the databus diagnostic interface.

triplesquaretable.pdf

Extremely unlikely on the last point, I think.

XZN. Can get the nominal size by measurement and reference to this chart: triplesquaretable.pdf

Yes, lock module is dumb, just a dc electric motor, a few microswitches and resistors. Key barrel is separate and unaffected. Did you keep the old door loom after replacement, by any chance?

I'd be happy to have a look at it, but have no experience of engine ECU repair.

Is that 3.4V with the connector not plugged into the coilpack? If so I tend to agree. First step - maybe - look for water ingress in connector(s). Then if no telltale corrosion found, see if anything has got inside the ECU's case.

May be able to find it if you PM me your VIN.

Not tried it myself Graham, but this popped up on a quick googlage Car CO2 and NOx emissions data (fleetnews.co.uk)

Right, nice one, your engine code is AZJ. Brown on pin 1 of coilpack connector is earth, black/lilac on pin 6 is the switched 12V feed, live when fuel pump relay is energised (e.g. engine running). Pins 2, 3, 4 and 5 go to engine ECU pins 102, 95, 103 and 94 respectively. These will be pulsed earth (or positive) triggers, I think, for each cylinder's coil driver, energising spark plugs no.1, 2 ,3 and 4.

Possible but harder I think. the grey/white wire originates at fuse 37, the black blue at a junction of of two other wires, one going to reversing switch on gearbox, t'other to BCM pin 48 of the white 73=way connector. Not sure how close/far they are apart on a RHD mk2.

No, that's a code for the engine code, the real code will be 3 or 4 letters. I don't have the ability to decode your 'U'. Please see one of the links in my signature (view on computer not phone) for other places to find it, if you've tried both of my suggestions without success.

@Dooge I have no experience of your situation, but I do know that if someone's posts annoy; you can mouse over their username and select "ignore" from a pop-up that appears. Subsequent posts by that user will not be visible to you.

Engine code is required to find relevant wiring info. Letters ahead of engine number on V5c ownership document, or on boot build label.

At first glance the wiring diagram for March 2010 onwards shows only the LHD version, which is what you'll be wanting to implement. Does the car have factory-fit towbar? If not, then for left side foglight you'll want to disconnect the grey/white wire at the right cluster connector and take it to pin 4 of the 6-way left side cluster connector. For right side reversing light you'll want to disconnect the black/blue wire from the left hand cluster connector and take it to pin 2 of the 6-way at the right cluster. Depinning those two out of their original connectors to fit into the new homes may be nicest, cutting and shutting an extension piece into the two wires en route to these crimped connector inserts as reqd.

Will have a look once this meeting ends...

Pre- or post-facelift 2010 car, @TomHitch? Different in significant/relevant ways before and from March 2010, I think. More likely a hardwiring job, I think, without having yet looked at either set of diagrams.

If it works it will not cause any problems. Do you have the old window motor module that the garage removed? Did they fit a new one, or a second-hand one?

Cos the evaporator is doing what it is supposed to, getting cold. Cold air can hold less moisture than warmer air so it condenses out as liquid water. If it isn't draining away, then find the drain pipe/hole and unblock it.

The inner door seal I suspect is what you mean, the one the door closes onto? part number 6Y0867365C I think for the fronts, 'price on request' suggests difficult or impossible to still get from Skoda. Scrapyard may be better bet. Rear door leaks are very unlikely to be anything to do with this seal, you have to go deeper into the door structure. Ample discussion here: http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/2158-warning-fabia-door-leaks/ The only things you'll need to buy are some of the door card clips and a tube of Plumber's Gold.

Which doors, which seals? What's wrong with the ones you have?

^ Agreed. My suspicion is that VW Group won't do anything as expensive as a recall without being forced to. I have previously commented that I thought it would take a fatality/fatalities caused by this fault before action (by VW group) was taken, but owners who have experienced the fault should perhaps be more proactive than to wait for that.

I think the part number you really need is 6Q0 407 396 B, £8.71 from Skoda dealers or maybe a little less from TPS. Your first link says the part is suitable for cars without power steering, which I doubt applies to yours, the second link is for a style of driveshaft nut only used in early mk1 Fabias about 20 years ago, or more, I believe. If you really do have one of these missing I would recommend getting one fitted very urgently, preferably before the car is driven. Wheel removal/refitting during a tyre replacement would not involve this nut, just the wheel bolts. If you can't find a local dealer with one in stock, this ebay seller seems to virtually always manage next day delivery - Genuine VW Audi Wheel Hub Axle Nut 6Q0407396B Polo A1 A2 Skoda Fabia Seat Ibiza | eBay

Try it but I think it will be OK. The aftermarket units have probably just rationalised the variants (just front electric windows or all four) into a single common circuit-board with different numbers of physical switch controls above it.