Breezy_Pete

No, that's a code for the engine code, the real code will be 3 or 4 letters. I don't have the ability to decode your 'U'. Please see one of the links in my signature (view on computer not phone) for other places to find it, if you've tried both of my suggestions without success.

@Dooge I have no experience of your situation, but I do know that if someone's posts annoy; you can mouse over their username and select "ignore" from a pop-up that appears. Subsequent posts by that user will not be visible to you.

Engine code is required to find relevant wiring info. Letters ahead of engine number on V5c ownership document, or on boot build label.

At first glance the wiring diagram for March 2010 onwards shows only the LHD version, which is what you'll be wanting to implement. Does the car have factory-fit towbar? If not, then for left side foglight you'll want to disconnect the grey/white wire at the right cluster connector and take it to pin 4 of the 6-way left side cluster connector. For right side reversing light you'll want to disconnect the black/blue wire from the left hand cluster connector and take it to pin 2 of the 6-way at the right cluster. Depinning those two out of their original connectors to fit into the new homes may be nicest, cutting and shutting an extension piece into the two wires en route to these crimped connector inserts as reqd.

Will have a look once this meeting ends...

Pre- or post-facelift 2010 car, @TomHitch? Different in significant/relevant ways before and from March 2010, I think. More likely a hardwiring job, I think, without having yet looked at either set of diagrams.

If it works it will not cause any problems. Do you have the old window motor module that the garage removed? Did they fit a new one, or a second-hand one?

Cos the evaporator is doing what it is supposed to, getting cold. Cold air can hold less moisture than warmer air so it condenses out as liquid water. If it isn't draining away, then find the drain pipe/hole and unblock it.

The inner door seal I suspect is what you mean, the one the door closes onto? part number 6Y0867365C I think for the fronts, 'price on request' suggests difficult or impossible to still get from Skoda. Scrapyard may be better bet. Rear door leaks are very unlikely to be anything to do with this seal, you have to go deeper into the door structure. Ample discussion here: http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/2158-warning-fabia-door-leaks/ The only things you'll need to buy are some of the door card clips and a tube of Plumber's Gold.

Which doors, which seals? What's wrong with the ones you have?

^ Agreed. My suspicion is that VW Group won't do anything as expensive as a recall without being forced to. I have previously commented that I thought it would take a fatality/fatalities caused by this fault before action (by VW group) was taken, but owners who have experienced the fault should perhaps be more proactive than to wait for that.

I think the part number you really need is 6Q0 407 396 B, £8.71 from Skoda dealers or maybe a little less from TPS. Your first link says the part is suitable for cars without power steering, which I doubt applies to yours, the second link is for a style of driveshaft nut only used in early mk1 Fabias about 20 years ago, or more, I believe. If you really do have one of these missing I would recommend getting one fitted very urgently, preferably before the car is driven. Wheel removal/refitting during a tyre replacement would not involve this nut, just the wheel bolts. If you can't find a local dealer with one in stock, this ebay seller seems to virtually always manage next day delivery - Genuine VW Audi Wheel Hub Axle Nut 6Q0407396B Polo A1 A2 Skoda Fabia Seat Ibiza | eBay

Try it but I think it will be OK. The aftermarket units have probably just rationalised the variants (just front electric windows or all four) into a single common circuit-board with different numbers of physical switch controls above it.

Much harder to remove a surface mount LED than to block the light path from it. Long time since removable incandescent bulbs were used.

Not much left in there! Not sure, but I think maybe the DPF fault light should probably illuminate briefly at ignition on? Check to see whether it does or doesn't, and see if someone with same car can say if it should. Secondhand, higher mileage cars sometimes have pieces of black tape blocking certain fault LEDs...

Yes, permanent 12V.

Not sure the DPF needs to be blocked to cause the pressure sensor to burn out. More likely an EGR blockage or something that prevented the extinguish of a successful active regeneration. Lots of failures reported on here, never heard of anyone saying the replacement burnt out again shortly after. But I don't read or remember everything. Photo of the damage?

6R0 199 111 C "Console" I think, unless your engine code is CLMA in which case it's suffix A instead of C. Check google images to be sure it's the right bit, please. Either is around £50 + VAT from Skoda. The snapped bolts appear to be part number WHT 001 835, £2.51 + VAT each. Had a clutch change recently?

If you do 'attack it', please get some photos of the mk2 arrangement especially if there are any significant differences. 👍

Could be the seal and the grommets the wiring goes through. Pics of the mk1 arrangement above ^.

(The car's) Left end drain, letterbox slot just beyond where wiring loom dives through bottom. Cabin air entry and recirc flap to the left of shot. Right end drain, same shape, dimly visible beyond/below wiper motor Steel cover off front, spun round 180°, showing some plumber's gold sealant along where the original foam seal was, about to be refitted. May need to seal the grommets that the looms go through too if you really want to make it as designed again.

If it's the same arrangement as on mk1 there should be two large drainage slots, one at each end. These feed through into wheel arches behind the plastic arch liners. See whether it does/doesn't come out there if you hose each end of the scuttle. There's a neoprene foam gasket that's supposed to seal on the vertical metal front panel of the so-called 'water box' and prevent it leaking out down the firewall.

Message me with the VIN and I can tell you build date.

Mine went down almost 30% at the start of this year, mystifyingly. It was on an auto-renew, so I let that happen! Lloyds bank car insurance I think.