Breezy_Pete

If you ever go back for more ask for the MSDS sheet for it, it'd be interesting to know what it actually is. I believe they are required by law to supply this if you ask for it. Says R134A on the tin but they'd be breaking the law if they sold that to Joe Public, and I've a screenshot somewhere of a Web chat with Halfords where they admitted it isn't. Most people won't care.

Mk1 has same problem.

Wheel balance checked all round? Tyre condition likewise?

Give the Halfords kit a big swerve, in my opinion. Optimistic to imagine there was anything wrong with previous refill, I'm afraid. There will be a leak or more than 1, just a matter of finding and fixing. The refillers will nearly always refill, though there are big fines for refilling systems that test as leaking.

I'll be glad to help, will message you a contact number shortly.

The intervals between regassing get shorter and shorter as the cars age and leaks get gradually more prevalent. What's the exact fault code? G65 low pressure?

Is there not a part number on it? Message me with your VIN if you want me to look up correct part number/availability/price for genuine new.

Remaps ought (legally speaking) to not worsen emissions, but in practice this isn't policed with regard to NOx, so they needn't keep exhaust aftertreatment systems optimised, which native mapping has to. (With the obvious exception of 'dieselgate' diesels). That probably means mapped petrol engines can be run much leaner on cruise, saving fuel but upping NOx output.

1J0803219 for the clamp, N10109210 for the screw (M8x30). £7.07 + VAT for a new clamp at dealership, £1.91 + VAT for the screw. Are you sure they're not in a scuttle cover under the windscreen, or fallen onto the engine undertray? Did they adapt the battery management system to the new battery?

Unreassuring. 🙁

Well done for asking rather than breaking it. 🙂 The knack is to apply pressure as if trying to connect, rather than disconnect, on the body of the connector, then pull the latch gently towards where the wires emerge. It only needs to move a few mm before you'll hear a click and the connector will be free to pull off in the opposite direction to where you were just pushing. There are various youtube videos showing this if it doesn't make sense in my words, search for something like "vw connector removal".

Either the replacement was from a different car (should have said SK250DDRS on bottom line of part number label for a mk2 Fabia) or someone took the motor housing off and accidentally rotated it before refitting. Can you read the part number label with it installed? (Door card would need to be off to see). Do you still have the old motor module, that you 'worked on'? Not sure if the juddering is related to the reversed operation, could well be a separate, mechanical issue.

Combined with manifold pressure (MAP) sensor here, where giant finger is pointing.

Another thing worth doing while you're looking for the build sticker in the boot, is to go round the driver's side and try to get a photo of the fuel filter that's fitted, specifically the end where the orange arrow is on this pic. If it say's 3.0 bar, like this one, you have the wrong part fitted, it should say 4.0 bar. The filter is located just inboard of the sill, in front of the rear wheel on (UK) driver's side. Under the car, not inside it. Waving a phone camera down there on video mode may be a good way of initially locating it. If it has no such marking in that position, try to get a photo of any part number markings it may have anywhere on it. Or part numbers recorded on the receipt from when last changed.

The box above pedals is mainly controlling body functions like wipers, rear screen heater, interior lights, horn etc. It does coexist on the same circuitboard with the CAN gateway though.

Should look something like this:

Can you post a picture of the build codes sticker near/in the spare wheel well please?

Might sound daft but have you checked that the brake servo hose hasn't become detached and open to atmosphere following the cattle grid? Think another ECU might throw immo system, but it might start and run for a few seconds before cutting out due to that. Could be informative?

Nice one @MicMac.

In doing what Keith has wisely suggested, you'll also find broken wires near the connector, if there are any.

Hi Paul,will send a message in a couple of hours. Out and about just now.

Just somewhere to plug the loom connector so they didn't have to revise the loom when they changed to using ABS system, at a guess.

If you use a drill larger than 7/16" it'll drill the head off, free the stuff under it, and the remnant of the screw won't be under any tension so should be 'finger loose'?

It's a dummy sensor, pull it out of diff and you'll see. ABS wheel speed sensors do the job on your car.

Not a reverse thread, message me with VIN for me to look up length of fastener.