Breezy_Pete

Try it but I think it will be OK. The aftermarket units have probably just rationalised the variants (just front electric windows or all four) into a single common circuit-board with different numbers of physical switch controls above it.

Much harder to remove a surface mount LED than to block the light path from it. Long time since removable incandescent bulbs were used.

Not much left in there! Not sure, but I think maybe the DPF fault light should probably illuminate briefly at ignition on? Check to see whether it does or doesn't, and see if someone with same car can say if it should. Secondhand, higher mileage cars sometimes have pieces of black tape blocking certain fault LEDs...

Yes, permanent 12V.

Not sure the DPF needs to be blocked to cause the pressure sensor to burn out. More likely an EGR blockage or something that prevented the extinguish of a successful active regeneration. Lots of failures reported on here, never heard of anyone saying the replacement burnt out again shortly after. But I don't read or remember everything. Photo of the damage?

6R0 199 111 C "Console" I think, unless your engine code is CLMA in which case it's suffix A instead of C. Check google images to be sure it's the right bit, please. Either is around £50 + VAT from Skoda. The snapped bolts appear to be part number WHT 001 835, £2.51 + VAT each. Had a clutch change recently?

If you do 'attack it', please get some photos of the mk2 arrangement especially if there are any significant differences. 👍

Could be the seal and the grommets the wiring goes through. Pics of the mk1 arrangement above ^.

(The car's) Left end drain, letterbox slot just beyond where wiring loom dives through bottom. Cabin air entry and recirc flap to the left of shot. Right end drain, same shape, dimly visible beyond/below wiper motor Steel cover off front, spun round 180°, showing some plumber's gold sealant along where the original foam seal was, about to be refitted. May need to seal the grommets that the looms go through too if you really want to make it as designed again.

If it's the same arrangement as on mk1 there should be two large drainage slots, one at each end. These feed through into wheel arches behind the plastic arch liners. See whether it does/doesn't come out there if you hose each end of the scuttle. There's a neoprene foam gasket that's supposed to seal on the vertical metal front panel of the so-called 'water box' and prevent it leaking out down the firewall.

Message me with the VIN and I can tell you build date.

Mine went down almost 30% at the start of this year, mystifyingly. It was on an auto-renew, so I let that happen! Lloyds bank car insurance I think.

Check cabin fuse 4 (5 Amp). It supplies the air quality sensor and the refrigerant pressure sensor. I doubt the A/C would work at all if blown, but free and easy to check.

With a bit of luck someone familiar with the versions of wiring in your car will be bothered to try to help. Might help if you know which side of May 2013 the car was built, cos there's different wiring documents that cover before and after that May.

You might have to cross over the yellow and red power feeds shown in your first pic. There look to be plug/skt connectors halfway along where you can easily do this. There should be a lot of posts on Briskoda about this.

When you say it doesn't turn off with ignition, do you mean when key is completely removed?

According to the circuit diagram, there's a (thin red/black) wire from fuse 23 going out of pin 28 of a 40 way connector on the fusebox, and that wire then goes back in on pin 15 of the same connector at the fusebox, to the relay terminal 86, via some splice/junction in the loom where it tees off to the engine ECU (pin 92 of 94-way). If that connection into pin 15 wasn't good, or that wire damaged somewhere, it might explain what you're seeing?

Does the relay have two 1/4" wide pins and two 3/8"? 85 and 86 connections are the narrower ones, one of them (the slots the relay pins go into) should be 12V, directly from that fuse.

Are there no markings adjacent to the holes/slots the relay pins go into on the panel?

I don't have the relevant document for mk3 Fabia, but others will confirm. Definitely not a good idea to undo them just to tighten them again to spec though, unless they were under-tightened.

The torque required to undo a plug is irrelevant to the correct tightening torque. Adding your engine code to the discussion may help in finding the relevant spec, but if you haven't stripped any threads, everything will be fine.

Double-check that fuse 23 is supplying a permanent 12V to terminal 86 of the relay holder, if so, check continuity from terminal 85 of the relay socket to engine ECU pin 69 of the 94 way connector. If that's intact, then the ECU is choosing not to energise the relay for some reason.

@417original did you try Carlston's ebay link? If not, you have 288x25 front discs, PR code 1ZE.

A compressible foam seal to close any gap is the usual solution. Just grab one off almost any scrapyard car, it will either be attached to the bonnet or the front edge of the 'water box' as VW group usually call the scuttle area. Cut and glue to correct size and shape, and space off with random other material to get the degree of compression just right to seal. It's not the odourous gases you should worry about, it's carbon monoxide which will kill you without any bad smell to let you know it's there.