Breezy_Pete

Is it a single cam 60 horsepower 3-cylinder or twin cam 70bhp?

Did you leave it in a forward gear on this steep hill?

Did you slacken off the central adjuster behind the lever inside the cabin? That should be the first step in any drum-related process, and the last adjustment at the end.

Should not require much force at all. If they are like the ones I'm familiar with, the edges have a texture that stops them slipping too easily, but it isn't a deep notching, so a gentle upwards tap should make it move. If the spring is in the way, disconnect it, move the wedge up then reconnect.

Yes, although FS3 calipers is what you really mean, the carriers are built into the wheel bearing housing on your car. 🙂 I have seen your PM, will try to do something about it very soon. 👍

FWD or 4x4? If the latter, straps look to be 1J0201655G, £25.75 + VAT each at dealers. If the former, message me with VIN, there seems to be more than one possibility.

You should be able to see just by looking at the outside face of the caliper with its visible outer springs. Nothing should need disassembling if the springs showing there look like the right hand pad springs in my photo.

Inner and outer pads definitely in correct positions? As per one of your posted images, clips are different. Here's a photo of a pair of non-genuine pads that shows the clip difference clearly. Inner/piston pad on left.

I wouldn't think it's worth doing the belt again yet, personally. Isn't it only the driver's side engine mount that needs to shift? Engine doesn't need to move, does it?

No, the thing at the back edge of the door, behind the regulator panel, that has motor and mechanism that does the locking and unlocking of the door. It's a judgement call whether to replace, if it failed the day after fitting new regulator panel you'd be gutted, especially if re-rivetted on. On the other hand, the present one may last fine.

You could also use 504 00 even if the car isn't set to variable servicing and service it after a year and a half or two, according to usage patterns. Just check the level regularly rather than relying on the (probably not fitted) level/temp sensor. The algorithm that supposedly tells you (on variable servicing) when the oil is worn out is probably pretty unreliable anyhow.

It's not like you to trust VW group techs to do the best for owners' engines!

Or all the others listed.

Beware of part numbers starting 6Q1, they'll be LHD versions.

What do you think of the fender badge?

Any would be fine, the differences can be small.

If you want more than life than fixed servicing you'll need 504 00 spec though. create a login on erWin Skoda and you can freely download all the latest oil info. See hyperlink list bottom right erWin Online | Škoda Auto | (skoda-auto.cz)

There are a variety of Castrol oils approved to 502 00, in various SAE grades: 5W40, 5W30, 0W30 and 0W40. Take your pick.

The return hose is still available new, if that helps at all? Volkswagen / Seat / Skoda Return Hose 6Q2423891F - LLLParts The same place seems to be offering the other one too, albeit at twice the price 6Q2423893H - LLLParts I wouldn't be super-confident of them actually being able to get the latter, cos ETKA says dropped without replacement on 1st Feb 2022. Could be old stock in warehouses though.

Welcome to my list of 'special people' I no longer read.

Yes indeed!

VIN?

There's a thermal fuse within the resistor pack, the pinked bit here, but top speed (4) should still work with that blown. In fact, the resistor pack can be completely removed and top speed should still work, assuming it's still wired the same way as back in the days of the mk1.

Immediate threat may have been a better description of what I was meaning.

Strat/stop is actually more useful in relation to urban NOx and particulate pollution, short-term threats to human health, rather than the CO2/climate related reduction which is a side benefit, and not huge.