Breezy_Pete

Well done, have you still got the old pump by any chance?

I bought (well, received as a present tbh) a cheap battery charger recently. It has 4 modes including AGM. On both wet and AGM batteries I tried it on, both of which were low on charge, the difference between normal and AGM appeared to be a slightly lower voltage for the AGM mode. This aligns with my understanding that overcharging is the main risk with completely sealed battery technologies. Probably also what's really behind the whole "only charges to 80%" thing in active service, but dressed up by marketing as 'micro hybrid, energy saving'.

Fan control wire is at pin 12 of 91-way connector at engine ECU, black/violet 0.75mm² And with battery in boot, you're looking at the *3 versions of the wiring in the screenshot above. clicking should make it bigger/clearer, I hope. Who are you directing that towards, the OP, or @Bepis?

Yes, but only relating to the accessible front door bellows, where the lock motor wires are not accessible. Which diagrams do you mean @ApertureS?

Which one did you change? What colour connector?

I think so, yes. Check the wiring out thoroughly first though. And fuse 18, the ignition switched feed fuse. And the black/violet wire from engine ECU. Give me engine code and I can probably find pin number at ecu. Tomorrow.

Built into the right-hand fan in that pic, judging by number of wires. Something like this, where J293 is the control module.

2016 car? I think I'd expect the control module to be built into the main fan if so. How many wires and what colours at main fan connection?

Did your latest refiller do a test with pressurised dry nitrogen gas? Any written evidence of? Should have, since there was knowledge of a recent refill. Vacuum hold test not as good.

Sounds like only the passage of time will help you realise I'm right. Good luck.

More of a completely unnecessary 'chavgrade' tbh, but each to their own.

That'll be leaking then.

TBH, with the sump as it is, it seems very unlikely that the engine isn't seriously damaged.

Agreed, I was only offering a way to get charge into the car's battery, may or may not help. Obviously, the a-pillar end of the wires that are used will need to be connected to a-pillar still.

Battery charger? Not many will put out more than 10 Amps. Earth to any unpainted metal, or the thickest brown wire in same bunch.

Thick red/yellow wire within that bellows should allow you get 12V into the system, main permanent power feed to door control unit. Use a 12V supply that can't give more than about 15-20 Amps so there shouldn't be any risk of blowing the fuse (30 amp) supplying that wire.

Vehicle identification number. Look through your windscreen just below passenger side wiper.

288mm probably, but message me with your VIN for confirmation of original fitment if you like.

If they pass MOT, who cares? Creating problems for yourself, sorry.

I'm a touch baffled about why mpg matters if you're only spending £10 or £15 a month on fuel?

Why? Just use incandescents and save yourself and following drivers aggro. LED license plate lamps in housings not designed for them result in nasty glare.

See what the coming MOT says. If it's a fail for front disc condition or thickness, it's definitely time to replace them. Bet it doesn't say anything different to last year's though.

Could also be rear door to B-pillar wiring break, especially if that door gets used regularly. No substitute for visual inspection of both really.