Breezy_Pete

Check that your fuel filter has not been incorrectly replaced with a 3 bar version. From recent experience, the BME engine uses a 4 bar fuel filter. PM your VIN to me for checking if you find a 3 bar filter fitted (stamped into one end, it lives just in front of fuel tank, visible under car ahead of rear right wheel).

Where did the replacement MC come from? Part number?

Warm up time will be slightly longer, mpg may actually improve slightly without EGR flow. Only on petrol engines can it save fuel as well as decrease engine-out NOx.

It must be detachable from the cylinder as the parts catalogue shows it as a separate part. So if the cylinder is working hydraulic-wise I'd hope you wouldn't have to remove/replace that part? Any chance you just forgot to plug the connector back onto it?

Did the replacement master cylinder come with a hall sensor clutch switch, or did that get transferred across from the old one?

I'll be able to see if it was or wasn't built with a DPF, and associated sensors.

The asterix * is defined as "According to equipment". This might mean that your car has instead a G85 sensor on the steering column, nearer the steering wheel.

Hmm, having looked at wiring diagrams, I'm now wondering if your car even has an angle/turn rate G250 sensor on the rack. Can you have a look please? It'll be on the driver's side on the bit that goes up towards the steering column. Or is there a cable connected to the 3-way connector on the pump?

Yeah, there's an emergency mode it can go into that still provides some assistance even if there's no angle sensor info. From the relevant SSP doc "Substitute function If the sensor fails, the power steering moves into a programmed emergency mode. The steering function is assured. The steering is slightly heavier to operate."

When you say a new pump was fitted, do you mean brand new, or 'another pump'?

The only coding for the pumps is the 'steering weight' which is adjustable within a small range. Nothing that would make it not work, nor generate a fault code relating to the angle sensor. The simplest explanation of what you're seeing is that there is a fault with the turn rate sensor (G250) or the wiring to it, or connections at either end thereof.

Great result, especially given the doom and gloom posts some of us offered you.

Leave the bolt (golf tee also known to work nicely, if available) blocking the EGR vac hose for a few days and see what happens. You'll get a fault light after a while I assume, but not sure if anything else will happen like limp mode. Easily discovered by experiment.

Swap the calipers left to right.

Cos they're crap, probably.

It's not clear from your opening post whether the coil pack(s) (not sure if individual ones or one for all cylinders on your engine) was replaced? You seem to say it was 'checked'. Engine code always useful, check boot build sticker if you don't know what it is.

Biggest difference ever... I really wish people would start out with engine code on engine-related enquiries. Not sure what your code reader is playing at, nor what parts you've really been swapping, but according to circuit diagrams and parts catalogue a BNV engine has no DPF, so no exhaust gas temperature, exhaust pressure or lambda sensors. Message me with your VIN please, for checking things out. And find a local member with VCDS to do a proper fault read (or get VCDS lite yourself, which will work on your car, for just the price of a cheap kkl cable)

Duff info, sorry, looks like it mounts like this (bearing in mind this is a Left Hand Drive depiction, so mirror everything). You can probably refit it without unplugging any connectors, so ignore stuff about that.

No screws, it just clips into place with cables all hanging vertically down, I think. Outboard edge goes in first, from memory.

According to wiring diagrams for BMS engine code (is this what yours is?), exhaust gas temperature sender No.1 is G235, but has a black connector; No.2 is G448 and has a brown connector; No.3 is G527 and has an orange connector. So it's not massively clear to me whether you've changed the correct one or not. The fact that you now have codes for lambda sensor and exhaust gas pressure sensor suggests maybe you have got the right temperature sensor, but other issues.

"Steering column electronics control unit" appears to be what the cruise switch connects to first. Did your vcds scan include that unit?

Prepare to be very surprised.

The 2004 wiring diagram will show every wire in the (Fabia) car that goes to the ECU. Search the document by your engine code.

No worries 👍

I think much of the confusion stems from the fact that when not full, AGM or EFB batteries MAY be charged harder and faster than normal lead acids. People falsely extrapolate from that to thinking they must be charged at a higher voltage.