Breezy_Pete

I'm not seeing a message from you in my PM inbox?

There's a 'terminal 15 relay' in some versions of the circuits that could well be involved. With VIN supplied I should be able to work out next steps to investigate. Bit late for me to be thinking/looking at circuits today, should find time in the morning.

Looks identical to mk1, at first glance. We'll done and thanks for posting back with pics.

The connectors are relatively easy to de-pin I think, there's a bit that slides off sideways once you've defeated the latch. Can't remember just now which of the arrowed tabs is the one (must be pink arrow, other one is the main connector latch I guess?): Once that's off, you have access to push the little ramp feature on the crimp insert to de-latch it for removal out in the direction of the wire.

Black/blue might be the one affecting windows, does it go into the blue connector, pin 2? If that is the problem, you may find that starting with car locked if you hold the key turned clockwise in the drivers door, as if to unlock without the remote fob button, the C/L should unlock everything and both front windows should start to descend, for as long as you hold the key fully clockwise.

Which wire is busted completely (colour of wire and connector colour, please), and which one very nearly? In my experience, the ones with insulation cracked won't be a problem unless the rubber boot isn't sealing well to the bodywork, and moisture is getting into the area. Does the revealed copper still look shiny and coppery? If so just cover with insulating tape, or preferably self-amalgamating tape. Sounds like 1 repair wire might be all that's needed, they are double ended yellow wires with a crimp insert at each end, part number in previous post. I may have one too. 000979009E Repair Wire Brand New | eBay

The single plugs are mk2 Fabia ones, ebay sellers overgeneralising as usual. The part numbers of the door loom plugs are as follows not sure if any kits available as they're much less breakage prone than the mk2 version and similar arrangements on other models: 6Q0 972 704 4-pin black 6Q0 972 706 6-pin blue 6Q0 972 706A 6-pin brown 6Q0 972 706B 6-pin white All available to buy from dealers, but will come without the crimp inserts or wires. May be better off de-pinning your originals, and soldering new short wires to the crimped area, then joining (I would solder and heatshrink sleeve) to existing loom beyond current breakages. Repair wires are available to suit, but there's three different sizes, most of them are covered by 000 979 009E (all except the black 4-way connector). How many wires are actually busted? What problems are you experiencing? By the way, it's really easy to completely remove the door, massively improving access, obviously. Once loom plugs are out, you just undo the check-strap M8(?) XZN, and two 13mm fasteners in the hinges and it just lifts off. Assistance suggested to take weight while removing and refitting.

Octy2 May 2011> diagram, pin numbers at 5-way connector looks like the only significant difference to the diagram in the link I posted earlier. See last comment from me in that linked post for my best guess at how the signalling/control works. If you could confirm, that would be awesome. (Assistant operating stalks and a voltmeter at rear wiper will be required).

I suspect the 'swerved' was an auto-correct from an intended 'answered'?

See this thread, some of wire colours and pin numbers at BCM may differ between Yeti and Octy2, but the gist is the same. Will check Octy wiring later to confirm. No CAN node involved. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/511807-2010-yeti-rear-wiper/

Take some photos of the sealing that has been done if you have the door cards off; going a long way up the rear edges is more important than most people realise. See image below for explanation. You don't have to remove the carriers to do a good job, it can go on with the thing still in place, just need to do a really good clean-up of the surfaces with isopropyl alcohol or similar to make sure the Plumber's gold has best chance of adhesion.

Well done for getting the refund, and good news that the leak has been found. The only further caution I would offer is that the first leak found isn't necessary the only leak. Did Colin continue looking around after that condenser o-ring leak discovery?

It'll mostly be the door carrier seals leaking, as per the link I gave you on Wednesday last week. The water slips under the carpet in the rear footwells and soaks the sound insulation underneath.

Often just that the winder handle has got knocked and windows not fully shut.

They're very competent liars.

Look up 'vw connector removal' on YouTube. There's a knack involving a push, rather than pull, prior to releasing latch.

There's very likely to be a part number on that connector. If you put that number into ebay search box, with a little bit of luck you'll get hits that include such a connector with short wire tails hanging out of it. Then you can join to existing wires well away from connector plastic.

Nice to get oil ash volume and mass on the same screen, enabling conversion between the two numbers. 👍 Oil ash volume (litres) = oil ash mass (g) /431 from those two numbers.

See if fuses 1-5 also have no 12V with ignition on. Could you bung your VIN in a PM so I can find exact car build date, and so the most appropriate wiring data, please?

Try with ignition switched on, I think the cabin one is switched, engine bay one permanent 12V.

I would have thought you'd be within your rights to demand that they deliver it to a fully equipped dealership that can fix the bloody thing!

VCDS would be my first action. Injectors are one of many problem areas on these engines, I've read.

Scan of ABS module should tell you a fault code that goes with the warning light.

See if there's 5V at pin 1 (red/green wire) of the cam sensor connector with ignition on. EGR, MAP sensor and cam sensor all use this 5V supply. TB also has a 5V feed to the position pots, but not sure if it's the same rail. Purple/red on pin 2 of the TB conn.

Have you looked at the cabin fusebox to make sure no fuses have shaken themselves loose/out?